Will an electrician be able to do all the electrical work, or will they need to get the supply company in to connect to the meter?

That is a bit of a sore point within the industry. Technically the meter operator should make the final connection to the meter, however most electricians will do it on an "it was already like that when I got here, I didn't touch a thing" basis
 
That is a bit of a sore point within the industry. Technically the meter operator should make the final connection to the meter, however most electricians will do it on an "it was already like that when I got here, I didn't touch a thing" basis

Been this way ever since I first got into the industry 20 years ago.
A bit like fight club the first rule about being an electrician is don’t talk about connecting tails to a meter. Nobody does it but everybody does it...
 
which is why you can buy seals on ebay.
 
That is a bit of a sore point within the industry. Technically the meter operator should make the final connection to the meter, however most electricians will do it on an "it was already like that when I got here, I didn't touch a thing" basis
I think in this situation I would have no problems pulling the main fuse, you have exposed live cables after all, I would then ring the DNO to reseal after the repair quoting EAWR as justification for pulling their fuse.
 
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Should have got him one of these for his Birthday
Might of helped to avoid the Big Bang.
 
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I think in this situation I would have no problems pulling the main fuse, you have exposed live cables after all, I would then ring the DNO to reseal after the repair quoting EAWR as justification for pulling their fuse.

I'd be more concerned about pulling their fuse in this situation than in an undamaged installation. The chances are slim but if current was to be flowing through the damage when you pull the fuse there could be some nasty arcing in your hand.
 
I think in this situation I would have no problems pulling the main fuse, you have exposed live cables after all, I would then ring the DNO to reseal after the repair quoting EAWR as justification for pulling their fuse.

I really do wonder why an isolator isn't part of the service head by design/Bs standard/whatever but we know it's because they want more money in thier bonuses (and charging to install isolators) rather than providing a means to kill power safely, without jeopardising the network (assuming yanking the DNO fuse does any damage....)
 
I really do wonder why an isolator isn't part of the service head by design/Bs standard/whatever but we know it's because they want more money in thier bonuses (and charging to install isolators) rather than providing a means to kill power safely, without jeopardising the network (assuming yanking the DNO fuse does any damage....)

Actually it is more likely to be a lagacy thing than any desire to make money, I'm sure if the whole cutout and meter arrangement was to be designed from scratch today it would be quite different. But it has evolved from the old ISCO and similar cast iron equipment.

It is not the damage done to the network which is the issue with 'yanking' the DNO fuse, it is the serious risk of injury to the person doing it or the long term fire risk if they don't carry it out properly.
If the load is not isolated when the fuse is pulled there will be arcing of the contacts which will leave them permanently damaged potentially creating a high resistance connection which could lead to fire further down the line.
Unseen damage to the fuse carrier or cutout could lead to it falling apart when pulled and leaving live parts exposed or causing a fault at the full fault current of the service, this could cause some nasty burns and blindness for the person doing it.
 
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It is not the damage done to the network which is the issue with 'yanking' the DNO fuse, it is the serious risk of injury to the person doing it or the long term fire risk if they don't carry it out properly.

Which is why you should always use appropriate PPE for this type of thing, e.g. insulated gloves, face shield etc. And making sure as far as possible that the supply is off load when pulling the fuse.
 
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Actually it is more likely to be a lagacy thing than any desire to make money, I'm sure if the whole cutout and meter arrangement was to be designed from scratch today it would be quite different. But it has evolved from the old ISCO and similar cast iron equipment.

It is not the damage done to the network which is the issue with 'yanking' the DNO fuse, it is the serious risk of injury to the person doing it or the long term fire risk if they don't carry it out properly.
If the load is not isolated when the fuse is pulled there will be arcing of the contacts which will leave them permanently damaged potentially creating a high resistance connection which could lead to fire further down the line.
Unseen damage to the fuse carrier or cutout could lead to it falling apart when pulled and leaving live parts exposed or causing a fault at the full fault current of the service, this could cause some nasty burns and blindness for the person doing it.

Which only furthers the question where there was/is not HSE/EWAR pressure for them to be retrofitted nationwide (what ais the DNO version of 18th Edition etc?) - DNOs of course will argue the seals are the 'safer' and 'more cost effective' method of protection
 
It's always seemed funny to me the worry around pulling a DNO fuse.

As an apprentice I never batted an eyelid at pulling fuses from the bill/red spot boards. I still don't. They were quite often under load, with no way of isolating before hand.

If I ever had to pull a DNO fuse I'd just follow the same method, check it is in decent condition reduce the load as much as possible (it's domestic work so effectively you should always be able to reduce it to 0) and pull away.

Respect it, but don't fear it, that's when you make mistakes.
 
Secondly to ward against the agent inflating the cost, what sort of ball park cost should it be.
Hi - maybe £30 tails, £30 steel work and a day of work to dig out, remove and replace, add steel protection, replaster etc. Painting is another step at another time perhaps. Cost will vary, dependant on the length of tails, the final solution required, ease of access, other services etc. Nothing stopping Your Boy getting his own quote.
 
Qualified electrician is about £400 per day , electrical materials probably £50-£60 tops + a bag of plasterers bonding

So no more than £500 tops imo
 
An easier option would be to disconnect the old tails and just patch up the hole. Then use plastic trunking screwed to a made good wall then just pop new tails in the trunking.
This could probably be achieved in about 2 hours
 
An easier option would be to disconnect the old tails and just patch up the hole. Then use plastic trunking screwed to a made good wall then just pop new tails in the trunking.
This could probably be achieved in about 2 hours

All depends on if the landlord would be happy with that?
 
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A good wrap of gaffer tape. 50P. black for the live conductor, green/yellow for the earth.:p:p:p
 
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Or cut the cable lol and put an isolator switch as the join . :)
now that is a cunning plan worthy of Baldrick. your prize is a giant turnip.

( and it's a lot cheaper than replacing the tails and replastering etc.,etc.)
 

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DIY Very Big Bang
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