Extract fan recomendation

[streamer]

The other thing to remember if you want to run a duct in between the ceiling and floor above is that in a building like that there will probably be deafening or deadening or what ever folks like to call it. Ie. another layer of boards with rubble and plaster on top. Awful stuff!

 

[123]

@littlespark Why does the fan need to be 12v? There are plenty of suitable 230v fans for the job.

What do you install when someone wants an electric shower, cause they are 230v as well?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Joists in an old building probably have herringbone strutting between the joist.

 

[littlespark]

@littlespark Why does the fan need to be 12v? There are plenty of suitable 230v fans for the job.

What do you install when someone wants an electric shower, cause they are 230v as well?

Why do they manufacture 12v fans?

I had in my head, bathtub with a fan within touching distance, never mind in a specific zone... and as tel rightly mentions... fan with the correct IP rating.
Moot point now as it’s way higher than I thought.

Joists in an old building probably have herringbone strutting between the joist.

I’ll find out after I get the boards up.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Why do they manufacture 12v fans?

Why do they make electric cars, answers on a postcard please.

 

[littlespark]

Back at this house today actually doing some work.

Customer had opened up a hatch on his stairwell and come across all this..... redundant (I hope!)

 

[littlespark]

Yeh, it’s redundant. And there’s no copper in the busbar chamber either.... been robbed already.

when were phases L1, L2 and L3 ever marked as ph A, ph B and ph C? That’s what all the labels say on this.

 

[Mikegh]

What components do you need for the rigid ducting on a 4" cooker hood usually ?

Is that the best type of grille

What do you need to attach the rigid pipe to the fan and the grille ?

On the core drills , do you remove the pilot bit during drilling ?

Cheers

 

[Mike Johnson]

After starting the hole, take the pilot drill out and use the hole drilled to guide the core, but make sure you keep it straight so not to introduce a bend in the hole, also always use the side handle on the drill to ensure it does not break your wrist if it gets stuck due to bad alignment, rigid pipe and grill/fan should match size, I use the stainless steel outside grills from TLC: 6 Inch Stainless Steel Round Cowl c/w Internal Louvre & Mesh | Aidelle_Airflow (52644601) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADRC6SS.html, the last fan I installed was one of the Icon range that opens and close's automatically, no need for a back draft grill: Airflow Aidelle Icon Extractor Fans - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Ventilation_Index/Aidelle_Icon_Fans/index.html. Sorry went off track a bit with extract fans instead of cooker hood extract, but still useful information I think.

Found the 4" : 4 Inch (100mm) Stainless Steel Round Cowl c/w Internal Louvre & Mesh | Aidelle_Airflow (52644501) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADRC4SS.html

 

[Mikegh]

Ok thanks for all that

So basically once the diamond bit bites you remove the pilot ? Is that it ?

Also seen something about driving pilot goes to reduce dust but didn't quite get that idea ?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Remove the pilot drill once you have about 25mm drilled into the wall to act as a guide.

Nor do I?

Six inch holes are fun.

 

[Mikegh]

I'll retype that

Also seen something about drilling pilot holes to reduce dust but didn't quite get that idea ?

 

[brianmoooore]

Joists in an old building probably have herringbone strutting between the joist.

Appropriate length of 3 X 2 and a large hammer will deal with these. Many have met their end this way by myself and my trusty 4lb lump.

 

[Mike Johnson]

That strutting is just there for decoration, and don't forget to drill holes wherever you want in the joist while your at it.

 

[brianmoooore]

Buildings like this tend to be somewhat over engineered by modern standards, and built with nice close grained timber, not the modern stuff with rings a cm apart. Removal of a strut or two isn't going to cause any movement.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Until the next person comes along and thinks exactly the same.

 

[Mike Johnson]

I'll retype that

Also seen something about drilling pilot holes to reduce dust but didn't quite get that idea ?

May be alluding to drilling all around the outside of a large diameter hole instead of diamond drilling, there is no doubt that diamond drilling does cause a lot of dust, but you do get a neat hole that requires very little finishing, even through plaster, and outside just a neat hole to put the cowl in.

 

[littlespark]

My last core was through 800mm of rubble built solid stone walls.

Once you’ve drilled through with just a long 10mm bit or whatever, start off the core using the pilot… will keep it straight following the first hole.
You’ll need a few inches cut with core before you can dispense with the pilot and let the core follow its own path.

There was a section where the rubble would drop into the new hole. I just had to clear it frequently.

Hire a drill and core if you can. Saves burning out your own machine, and keep a tight hold of the drill!

 

[Mike Johnson]

As both I and @littlespark have said keep hold of the drill using the side screw on arm, I have seen broken wrists through the core jamming and the drill not having a clutch, I had my own Marcrist set, about the best dry core bits you can get without spending mega money.

 

[Mikegh]

I'd get the core drill
I suppose the best thing with the ducting is go to the builders merchant .
I usually end up getting parts that don't fit together.