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By the way this is the manual I found online..
Discuss Heating Wiring Problem - cylinder thermostat not working in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
I just loaded a manual from Google instead of their website and it looks more like yours. It appears that it doesn't accept any switched live but expects a switched signal between 3 and 4. The orange and grey cores are the switched ones from the valves and could be used for that.sure - do you mean the boiler label (below)?
I WAS TOLD THIS PCB IS NEW!! I paid £250 for it... did the guy rip me off bringing me a used one??
View attachment 100150
I just loaded a manual from Google instead of their website and it looks more like yours. It appears that it doesn't accept any switched live but expects a switched signal between 3 and 4. The orange and grey cores are the switched ones from the valves and could be used for that.
Do you have a meter to test that there is 230v on terminal 4?
The white flex appears to be connected in all the right places, albeit sub-standardly.sure - do you mean the boiler label (below)?
I WAS TOLD THIS PCB IS NEW!! I paid £250 for it... did the guy rip me off bringing me a used one??
View attachment 100150
Also the pump usually runs on for a few minutes after the demand for heating or hot water has ceased, in order to take the excess heat away from the boile.sure - do you mean the boiler label (below)?
I WAS TOLD THIS PCB IS NEW!! I paid £250 for it... did the guy rip me off bringing me a used one??
View attachment 100150
I just loaded a manual from Google instead of their website and it looks more like yours. It appears that it doesn't accept any switched live but expects a switched signal between 3 and 4. The orange and grey cores are the switched ones from the valves and could be used for that.
Do you have a meter to test that there is 230v on terminal 4?
Hi, thanksThe white flex appears to be connected in all the right places, albeit sub-standardly.
I would turn the heating and hot water to the off position and then check to see if there is any voltage between neutral and the grey wire. The boiler and pump should only fire up when there is a demand for either heating or hot water or frost protection situation, which is highly unlikely at the moment, due to all the glorious sunshine.
Even when you have turned your heating and hot water to the off position?Right. So measured between the blue (N) and grey wire (4) on the PCB - and it's always 244V
Yes - heating and hot water being off (on the Nest)!Even when you have turned your heating and hot water to the off position?
I would now test between neutral and brown of both of your zone valves when heating and hot water is still in the off position. Hopefully you won’t have 230 volts there. I would then separate the oranges on your zone valves and measure between neutral and each of the oranges in turn to see if one of your zone valves has an issue. Could be a micro switch issue In one or both of your zone valves.Yes - heating and hot water being off (on the Nest)!
I have 244VI would now test between neutral and brown of both of your zone valves when heating and hot water is still in the off position. Hopefully you won’t have 230 volts there.
They both have 244vI would then separate the oranges on your zone valves and measure between neutral and each of the oranges in turn to see if one of your zone valves has an issue.
If you have 244v between neutral and the terminal where your brown of the zone valves are connected in your wiring centre, when the heating and hot water are in the off position, then you have a problem possibly from the nest end.I have 244V
They both have 244v
any ideas?
I see...If you have 244v between neutral and the terminal where your brown of the zone valves are connected in your wiring centre, when the heating and hot water are in the off position, then you have a problem possibly from the nest end.
You shouldn’t see 230v between neutral and brown when your heating and hot water are in the off position.I see...
So it could be the Nest's fault after all? (I spoke to Google who wants a "diagnostic" in order to send a replacement..)
Assuming you have seen the photo of the cabling at Nest? That seems correct?
Many thanks for your help!
OK, so I checked again (my heart sunk before)
and
b/w Neutral and Brown on both ZV = 0v
b/w Neutral and Orange on both ZV = 244v
All while heating & HW OFF
Apologies, about the wrong info earlier...230v should only be present between neutral and orange when you select either heating or hot water after the valve has motored open
Reply to Heating Wiring Problem - cylinder thermostat not working in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
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