Discuss Help identifying wires from antique fan in the USA area at ElectriciansForums.net

Reading always changes so i took videos and uploaded them. Please see links below.

Green-Yellow (main winding)

Red - Yellow (aux winding)


Green - Red (both in series, reading should be the sum of the two above)

Yellow - motor body (should read OL)
Reads OL
 
OK that should not happen. If there is continuity through the windings you should see a steady reading in each case. Make sure the bare ends of the wires are clean and bright, and clamp them securely against the meter probes. If you have alligator clips with your probes, use them. However, if the windings are OK the resistance will be low enough that touching them with your fingers won't have any impact, you'll still get a steady reading. If the windings are open-circuit then what you will see is those variable readings up in the megohms caused by your skin resistance varying.
 
OK. So i think i know whats going on. The copper leads have a solder coating on them. So what i did was attach some spare wiring i had to those leads, and now things add up as they should per your previous post.

Green-Yellow (main winding)
20.1

Red - Yellow (aux winding)
31

Green - Red (both in series, reading should be the sum of the two above)
51.1

What does this tell us and what are next steps if any?
 
The figures on the AFCA for your 315745A fan, measured by one member, and corroborated by another, are as below: (Lucien - OP posted similar message on the AFCA showing rating plate)

Between Green and Yellow = 22.1
Between Gren and Red = 52.2
Between Red and Yellow = 31.0

Within experimental error, it tells us your motor windings are likely OK. Good news!

Did you manage to measure between one of those wires and the metal case of the motor (if you could find a bit of bare metal to put the probe on)?

Over to you Lucien ?

Next steps are presumably to investigate the transformer, and why the motor hums when you plug the unit in, when there's apparently no resistance between the plug terminals. Bigjoe - knowing what you now know about resistance measurements, can you check between the coil wires, both red, black, and the switch contacts?
 
Wire and metal case read 0L as you mentioned it should.

Also, i dont have the A revision of a few years later (which seems to be more common), my model is just 3154745. Not sure if that changes anything with the wiring.

Now if i understood you correctly, this is what i did for my next set of readings

Black coil wire to Switch Contacts
  • Speed 1 = 8.4
  • Speed 2 = 6.7
  • Speed 3 = 4.0

Red Coil Wire to Switch Contacts
- 0.L for all
 
Now if i understood you correctly ............
Yes, perfect, you did understand. Thank you for the figures.
I haven't come across resistance figures for your earlier version of the fan - only the 'A'. I'm sort of assuming that the motor would be similar between the two, but don't know that for sure. It seems likely based on the similarity of your measurements.

My thought now is that the reason the fan doesn't work is because there is an open-circuit between the transformer and the red wire, or in the coil. I'm rather hoping the red wire might have become detached from a tag or the coil wire. To me the red and black wires don't seem original, and someone has replaced them at some stage.

I'd like to hear Lucien's view now.

Without more thought about your resistance figures, I'm not clear if the red wire is the final end of the coil, as I was assuming, or if it's actually the next tap along from the Speed 3 Connection. I feel probably not the latter.

If it were me doing this I would very carefully investigate what is under that old insulation tape, so see how the red wire is attached, it might be possible to repair it.
But please be careful, as the wire of the coil may be fragile, you don't want to be bending it in all different directions while investigating! If the wire breaks off it becomes much more difficult to repair!

Another view of the circuit I found:
1626252697282.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Looking back at earlier post #4, if you plugged the fan in to power while wired as per your diagram, that would have put mains voltage across that part of the coil that now appears open circuit. So I'm afraid it's possible the transformer will need rewinding, or replacing if you can find one.
 
Agree 100% with AVO. If the red and black wires of the transformer were connected to the line cord terminal screws and powered up, the secondary (output) winding of the transformer would have been fed with 120V AC which it is not designed for. You are now reading open-circuit between red and black which suggests it has burnt out, or again as per AVO if you are very lucky it has a broken connection where the enamelled or silk-covered winding wire meets the new red PVC-insulated tail. In either case, the transformer is not delivering output to the motor's auxiliary winding so there is no phase-shifted magnetic flux to produce torque. This is why the motor hums but doesn't turn.

Carefully dissect the connection to the red wire to get back to the connection with the transformer winding itself. Don't be surprised if it disintegrates in your hands!
 
thanks guys, i hope this wasnt my fault because of my impatience in trying to get this to work! I will get to this later today and just hope that the red wire is disconnected and is a simple fix. I do feel that i may have burnt it out, there was smoke coming from the coil at one point, which again was only for a second before i disconnected, but im sure that was enough. Ill post my findings later.

In any event, as a just in case, i have found a couple of A versions of this fan for very cheap, supposedly in working condition. If the transformer itself is shot, i like to transplant a working one over. I assume that should work as a last resort?
 
In any event, as a just in case, i have found a couple of A versions of this fan for very cheap, supposedly in working condition. If the transformer itself is shot, i like to transplant a working one over. I assume that should work as a last resort?
Yes I think transplanting a transformer from a similar fan should work, hopefully even from an 'A' version.
Bear in mind it's 100+ years old, and probably rather fragile!
If you could swap the switch part of the base containing the transformer over from another fan, so you don't have to extract the transformer and disconnect it from all the switch studs, you would stand a better chance of keeping connections in a good state!
 
Sweet! It's so nice when you find a winding that could have been toast, but is intact and just waiting for a connection to the outside world to bring it back online. Well done for picking up the winding end, it can be a finicky job that doesn't always work out. Stay cool!
 

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