Oct 31, 2021
9
3
33
UK
If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
United Kingdom
What type of forum member are you?
DIY or Homeowner (Perhaps seeking pro advice, or an electrician)
hello all,



I have a Honeywell Galaxy G2-20 burglar installed in my home (about 9 years old).

Recently I got a Battery Miss fault showing on the keypad. So I replaced the battery in the main panel with a new one.

It was ok for a few days, then the fault re-occured. So I checked the main circuits in the main panel and found that the Aux and Battery Charging circuits are only at 4.0V DC (they should be around 13V DC according to my understanding). For reference I have checked incoming power 240V AC power supply and it is fine. I also checked the transformer output voltage and it is 17.9V AC (which I believe is also fine).

I tried disconnecting all detectors (just keeping the keypad and bell connected) and when I re-test the Aux and Battery Charging circuits the voltage only goes up slightly to around 4.3V DC. (I also have an zone expander board (Rio) on this system which I disconnected in this test).

This would lead me to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the PCB. Since this is an old alarm they don't make this version anymore. There are a few used ones around on ebay, but i'm not sure I want to try those.

Has anyone come across this type of issue before?

Is the PCB the most likely fault?

If I do indeed have to replace the PCB is there a new version that would work instead? If so, do I need a new zone expander also or will the old one work with the new PCB?

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
If and if the pc board has a fault the only
Aternative is to put other brand in considering you have the pirs.
 
If and if the pc board has a fault the only
Aternative is to put other brand in considering you have the pirs.

Thanks for the response buzzlightyear.

Do you think there is anything else I can test to try and further diagnose what could be causing the low voltage problem?

You mention that the only alternative is to put in another brand, are there no updated Honeywell versions of this type of Alarm system anymore?
 
probably find it's a semiconductor. in the power supply. check the beast in the heat sink, top left and also the electroytic capacitor below it. check for any signs of dry joints or excessive heat on PCB in same area.
 
probably find it's a semiconductor. in the power supply. check the beast in the heat sink, top left and also the electroytic capacitor below it. check for any signs of dry joints or excessive heat on PCB in same area.

I took some pictures of the heat sink area. It's easy to see where the heat has affected the case and some cables above it. But can't see any visible damage to the PCB in that area.
The capacitor also looks ok (don't see any scorching or bulging).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211101_191117.jpg
    IMG_20211101_191117.jpg
    634.4 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_20211101_191207.jpg
    IMG_20211101_191207.jpg
    482 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_20211101_191427.jpg
    IMG_20211101_191427.jpg
    556.4 KB · Views: 21
i reckon that semiconductor (thryristor?) is goosed. cpc farnell do suchbeasts for less than a pint of ale. worth a punt.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jim_e_Jib
i reckon that semiconductor (thryristor?) is goosed. cpc farnell do suchbeasts for less than a pint of ale. worth a punt.

Do you mean this part (please see picture below):
 

Attachments

  • InkedIMG_20211101_191117_LI.jpg
    InkedIMG_20211101_191117_LI.jpg
    634.5 KB · Views: 20
Fuse F1 is the battery fuse have you checked this fuse isn't blown
 
no.that's a capacitor and be a good idea to replaceit. the part i refer tois screwed onto that aluminium heat sink. it should get fairly warm in use.
 
Fuse F1 is the battery fuse have you checked this fuse isn't blown
even if it is, he should still get13.6V from the PSU.
 
Fuse F1 is the battery fuse have you checked this fuse isn't blown
Yes, checked that first, it's working fine, thanks
 
no.that's a capacitor and be a good idea to replaceit. the part i refer tois screwed onto that aluminium heat sink. it should get fairly warm in use.
thanks telectrix, you mean this part below?
 

Attachments

  • InkedIMG_20211102_170927_LI.jpg
    InkedIMG_20211102_170927_LI.jpg
    400.1 KB · Views: 17
thanks telectrix, you mean this part below?
yep.youmay have to do some searching to find out what device it is. try cpc farnell. a quick test would be to measure resistances between the 3 legs. diode tests with multimeter should show a couple of 0.6V.
 
i reckon that semiconductor (thryristor?) is goosed. cpc farnell do suchbeasts for less than a pint of ale. worth a punt.
Certainly is less than a pint of ale at 28p
 
Hi all, just an update. I ordered the LM317T voltage regulator and also a replacement capacitor. I replaced the voltage regulator first. That has solved the low voltage to the Aux and Battery charging cable (both are now just above 13v DC). However, the keypad is not working, the screen is blank and every 15-20seconds it beeps, but the screen remains blank. I have charged the 7ah battery and tested it before powering up the alarm with it plugged in.

I then replaced the Capacitor on the PCB, but that doesn't make any difference. So now i'm stuck again. Not sure what else to try.

Note, before I replaced the voltage regulator I fully charged the battery and plugged it in and the alarm did work for a few hours (as it was being fully powered by the battery). So I know the battery is ok. So it's only after I replaced the voltage regulator that has led to this specific issue.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Going to be difficult diagnosing this remotely I think.
 
I then replaced the Capacitor on the PCB, but that doesn't make any difference. So now i'm stuck again. Not sure what else to try.
New system will solve it.
 
Have you checked that you have got power at the keypad
 
As per UNG, if you have the time, suggest checking power exists on all ic's, just to check no tracks got damaged during the replacements. Google for the pin-outs!

Have you got a circuit schematic by any chance? If not it may be time to consider a replacement ? eg:

 
  • Like
Reactions: DPG
hi all, just an update. I actually got it working. A rookie mistake i'm afraid, I mis-wired the -ve on the keypad which is what caused it to beep every 15-20seconds. So it's all working now.

The main fix was the voltage regulator that I replaced on the PCB.

Thank you all for your input/advice, it's really appreciated.
 
nice to get the feedback. (not just because my post#4 was the solution. ???).
 

Similar threads

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses Heating 2 Go Electrician Workwear Supplier
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

Advert

Daily, weekly or monthly email

Thread starter

Joined
Location
UK
If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
United Kingdom
What type of forum member are you?
DIY or Homeowner (Perhaps seeking pro advice, or an electrician)

Thread Information

Title
Honeywell Galaxy G2 low voltage problem
Prefix
N/A
Forum
Security Alarms, Door Entry and CCTV (Public)
Start date
Last reply date
Replies
23

Advert

Thread statistics

Created
galaxy_owner,
Last reply from
galaxy_owner,
Replies
23
Views
8,157

Advert