How to shield a live wire at 240V ?

[marconi]

Introduction to RC Differentiator Circuits and Uses - https://www.bristolwatch.com/ele2/diff.htm

Passive differentiator circuit using a resistor and capacitor and waveforms.

 

[marconi]

q12x I had a go at putting together the circuits I posted this morning and then trying them out on version 1 of my IR proximity switch which is similar to your wings. I only made up two inputs to monitor the state of two of the yellow LEDs ( the 5th and 6th ones counting from the bottom). The differentiator detects the rising or falling edge of the switching pulse, and as wired on the breadboard at the moment it will detect and produce a beep only when an LED turns off. If you watch and listen carefully you can see how it performs.
The outputs of the comparators in version 1 fade and oscillate when the hand is moved slowly or remains still near the threshold points for LEDs 5 and 6. This affects the pulse waveforms which I highlighted in green and therefore the one which controls the 555 using the trigger input at pin 4 - you can hear the effect on the beep and illumination of LEDs 5 and 6.

In version 2 there is no fading or oscillation because I introduced some positive feedback/regenerative switching (hysteresis) at each of the 8 comparators, used some Schmitt trigger circuitry and employed a sample and hold technique which I described earlier ( S, P and Q). As an aside, the ruler LEDs are driven by the state of Q.

Much more work is required with the ideas I sketched out this morning to produce a click effect as good as in version 2. Alas, it will not be by me because I have achieved a satisfactory click effect in a different way and I don‘t have the motivation.

 

[marconi]

Vishay, BPV10NF IR Si Photodiode, 20 °, Through Hole 5mm package | RS Components - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/photodiodes/6997607/

q12x Good morning. I was looking for technical data on some 940nm ir leds and photodiodes I bought off Amazon only to discover that the photodiodes are in fact photo transistors according to several reviewers of the products so I will not be using them for my next sensor array.

I managed to find some 940nm photodiodes and 890nm LEDs on RS - see link and data sheet. This black photodiode has an integral daylight filter. Might be useful for your sensor too. There is a nice graph ( Figure 6 ) in its data sheet showing the relative sensitivity of the photodiode which shows it falling off rapidly towards the visible part of the spectrum.

 

[marconi]

I have spent a little while studying the way you actually build your modules and the components you use. I notice that you sometimes use glass body diodes for example in your SCM and in op amp circuit (3). Since your circuitry is exposed these diodes may be picking up and producing photo currents due to daylight or lamp light which interfere with or disturb the operation of the circuit. You might want to cover up these glass diodes and see if it makes any difference.

 

[marconi]

I have been pondering why LED1 is lit whenever one of the LEDs 2-10 is lit in dot mode. The LM3914 should not do this as you have noticed. For correct operation , the Vref voltage has to be less than or equal to the V+ voltage minus 1.5V.

You have two resistor connected in series between Vref and ground and their midpoint connects to the Vref adjust pin. If I remember correctly, the two resistors are the same value which means that Vref becomes 3Volts. This the voltage impressed across the internal voltage divider which provides voltage references to the 10 internal comparators which switch the LEDs on and off.

My first thought is that for correct operation V+ (pin 3) with respect to the V- (pin2) must be equal to or greater than whatever the Vref (pin7 ) to V-(pin 2) voltage is plus 1.5V. Is it?

If Vref V1 is 3V, then V+ to pin2 must be 4.5V or more. Is V+ decreasing below 4.5V when the LEDs turn on?

Take voltage measurement at the pins of the ic.

 

[marconi]

The way you have wired pins 2 and 4 of the LM3914 may also be causing a changing voltage drop between these pins and also with reference to the local 0V pad. I hope the attached diagram explains well enough that the circuit requires a local start point (X).

see:

https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm3914.pdf?ts=1614700327590&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ti.com%2Fproduct%2FLM3914

Page 18 Application Hints: Three of the most commonly needed precautions for using the LM3914 are shown in the first typical application drawing showing a 0V–5V bar graph meter. The most difficult problem occurs when large LED currents are being drawn, especially in bar graph mode. These currents flowing out of the ground pin (V- pin 2)cause voltage drops in external wiring, and thus errors and oscillations. Bringing the return wires from signal sources, reference ground and bottom of the resistor string (as illustrated) to a single point very near pin 2 is the best solution.

 

[marconi]

q12x Good morning. I thought of this idea to generate a click pulse whenever an LED turned on. (You would need a second op amp comparator to provide a pulse whenever an LED turned off, wired like the one I have shown but with its inputs (+ and -) reversed). The LM3914 would have to be in bar mode. The idea relies on the LM3914 LED outputs being constant current drive signals to each LED. Each time an LED turns on there is then a step up in current I through the common resistor which connects them all to Vled. Thus there will be produced across this resistor a step in voltage which the CR differentiator across it will turn into a short downward pulse V. During the downward pulse the differential voltage into the comparator will be less than 0V so the output will be 0V as shown by the waveform X. The X waveform can gate the click on and off.

 

[marconi]

q12x I wondered if you were still looking at this thread? I have just treated myself to an 'entry-level' ie cheap, simple to use yet useful - 2 channel digital oscilloscope as an early birthday present to myself (60 this year in June). I need it to pursue version 3 of my version of your project which tackles daylight and ambient IR.

This is the one I bought yesterday and arrived today:

 

[_q12x_]

• Yah, Hanmatek DOS1102 Oscilloscope is a very nice scope, and very nice presented. Thank you so much for it, mister @marconi . I will consider it for the future
• This is a little toy I made. Well, it is an addon, an upgrade. It saves space!!! and it fill it's purpose VERY nicely, into my project as a Testing component.

Well, 2 toys. Haha.
- The new updates are awesome and great. With a full support and full help from my good american friend, mister Steve, we manage to make a very practical and very well constructed, very robust in other words, IR remote control and it's receiver. We actually tested it on the wings and is just perfect. I must admit, I like more the remote receiver output to S.5, its very linear and nice to watch. It's a very nice feeling. I will do a video soon about it.
I will start today to build the modules for this remote. Ive also made a range test from outside my room, so it's around 6meters until my testing table and it is working excellent. I can not be more happy about it. I am VERY happy about it.
- Another update is that I receive 10pcs of PIC12F508. I started already to swim in the jungle of tutorials and how to program them. I already have experience with programming PIC's from 1997 to 2003 or something. It's a long story. So its not my first time now, but it passed a lot of time from my tests back then. So I have to remember and remake those steps again. I have an awesome Pickit2 that is still working from those times and the tests so far are optimistic. We'll see. I dont want to talk too much about this subject since it can grow very ugly very quickly in 1000 branches of subjects that is not fun to keep track. Suffice is to say, that I started with it and I have to dig into it more until I can figure it to function optimal.
- The sound problem, the ticks. Mister @marconi , you did very good job and I referenced your work when I thought about this subject. Your doing, for me is an idea and a way to do it. So you helped my final decision even if is not the same as yours. I think I am more happy to build the sound ticks over another lm3914 in paralel with the existing one for the wing leds. I will basically have to drag 3 wires for its module: the signal to pin 5, from the other IC pin 5 as well, and the power pos and neg wires. Thats it. Very compact and robust.

• The NEXT thing to think about it is the movement of the floating parts I mentioned some time ago. My thought is to use those micro-motors from vibrators in phones, I have 10 of them already and I hacked one to transform it back to motor from vibrator. Another idea is to use "smart wires", basically they are wires that change their shape when current passes through them, and come back to original state when not powered. The catch is they are very expensive. These are ideas for the moment. We will have to think more about this subject. And it is the final thing to add to the project.
• These 3 remained - the remote, the bip sound and the movement. I am amazed of how it is turning out. And I am very confident it will look and work great in the end.

 

[marconi]

q12x I too am very pleased to read about your many accomplishments with this challenging project. I will look at the video as soon as you post it. I think you and your work demonstrate what Voltaire said:

No problem can withstand the assault of sustained thinking - philosiblog - https://philosiblog.com/2011/12/02/no-problem-can-withstand-the-assault-of-sustained-thinking/

I think the idea of using a second LM3914 is true genius - so simple, so reliable, so effective, so economical. (I wish I had thought of it!)

I cannot remember the floating parts feature. It will be interesting to follow the evolution of this design so I hope you continue to post. I am not at all familiar with the PIC12F508. I will look it up today.

I have made a an exact replica of my 850nm IR sensor array but using 940nm photodioes and 890nm LEDs. I have connected it to my version 2 and it does indeed appear less troubled by daylight and artificial lighting but not completely. I have not pulsed the 890/940nm sensor yet which is the major theme for Version 3. I thought I would study the signal from this sensor first using my oscilloscope for continuous and then pulsed IR. I want to 'see' the nature and magnitude of the interfering IR signals and the effect pulsing has.

I have not made up my mind yet about whether to have 8 comparators again examining the sensor signal acting as a flash (ie fast and the full voltage range at the same time continuously) analogue to digital voltmeter/converter or whether to only have one comparator and feed it with a ramped/stepped voltage reference and to then sample the comparator output at time/voltage intervals. The former would use something I know works; the latter would occupy less space but would require time and effort to design and test and be a distraction from the real challenge of tackling the interfering ambient IR problem.

Finally for now, I thought I would bring to your attention I discovered the sister ic to the LM3914 while reading up on the operation of the LM3914. The LM3914 is a linear a to d chip. There is a LM3915 which is logarithmic, that is to say an LED lights for every doubling (3dB change) in input voltage to pin 5. A log chip rather than a linear chip would help to even out the points when the LEDs light as the hand approaches - I achieved this by my 10 adjustable voltage references from the blue multi-turn trimmer pots and 10 comparators. The 3915 does the same internally.

https://www.electroschematics.com/lm3915-datasheet/

PS: Look up Bob Pease and Bob Widlar - I think you may be related to them!

 

[marconi]

The pickit2 reminds me of my introduction to microprocessors during my degree when we used a Motorola 8085 kit similar to this:

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetai...raining-kits-with-led-display-4341655888.html

We had to start off doing really basic things like input a word of 8 bit data, doing some mathematical or logical operation on it and then output it to turn on the appropriate Lights representing the output 8 bit word and then after so many seconds flashing on and off these lights.

About a hundred short exercises which gradually became more complicated. Happy days. I ended up using the 8085 to control a chip which compared in a special way ( cross correlation) two 16 bit words. It did not work until the nth version! I will keep n secret.


I commend this bite-size approach to exploring the jungle.

 

[_q12x_]

This video is made for the IR remote control.
I talk here about the 3 remaining things I want to add, and also the motor(s) part.
I actually show them.

 

[marconi]

I have watched your video. Thank you for the update and remarks. Towards the end you talk about finishing off the design perhaps with some enclosure over the modules. Are you aware of ‘light pipes’?

See:

Buy LED Light Pipes | Essentra Components UK - https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/p/led-light-pipes

There are other suppliers which may sell smaller numbers.

I asked my music minded wife the word to describe the beep sound you want to produce. It is an arpeggio.

 

[_q12x_]

Thank you for watching it.
Why do you mention the light pipes? I am aware of their existence, but i did not know the name of them if i wanted to search them. So the name is new for me.
What should I do with them?

 

[marconi]

I thought you could put a cover over the board with the modules on. But that would obscure the LEDs. What you could do is use the light pipes to take the light from the LEDs from the wings moduleto holes in the cover so they could be seen. The light pipes have flat or rounded ends. You as an artist could then design and draw the wings on the cover around these light pipe exit holes.

 

[_q12x_]

I thought you could put a cover over the board with the modules on. But that would obscure the LEDs. What you could do is use the light pipes to take the light from the LEDs from the wings moduleto holes in the cover so they could be seen. The light pipes have flat or rounded ends. You as an artist could then design and draw the wings on the cover around these light pipe exit holes.

One of the original objective for this projekt was to be as FLAT as imaginable. I originally wanted to be flat as a piece of paper or as a paint thickness. Thats like 10micro. But in reality, we have the leds height that add to the board thickness and the other components heights. As you can observe, absolutly no stand up component (or vertical placement), all are horisontal placed to diminish the thickness of this board as originally intended.
I think I understand your point. Because the other components height, I should add these tubes on the leds to get them more in front. Is this correct? Well, it is a nice idea, if I want to cover all the electronics and not use this transparent cover. But the thing is that I want to show all those wires there, all my work. I want to show it is a prototype, because it is.
Yesterday, ALL day, I built the receiver circuit Module. Today I finish it and it works ! Youhoo. Next, is to make the transmiter.

 

[marconi]

You have been more industrious than me. I have at least made a breadboard for version 3 which is bigger. You can see the 850/940nm ir sensor array.

 

[_q12x_]

If you are happy with the functionality you get from the breadboard right now, it is time to make it on fiberglass board. It's probably a good advice for you, to make it as a definitive project. And dismantle everything you have here on these breadboards. I did the same. Remember the movie where I presented the remote control receiver? It was breadboarded. Now is gone, breadboard is clean again, ready for other experiments. But I made the receiver module in this time, unfortunatly with the same opamps on the breadboard because they were the only ones I had.

 

[_q12x_]

mister @marconi - I am in need of your advice.
I have 2x555 to build my transmitter. They are SMD type. With very tiny pins on them.
Usually I cut like 3x3mm metal pad as the tiniest. Sometimes I go to 1x3mm but rarely. The thing is on such tiny surfaces, the solder is not behaving normally as on a pad. It is like a ball all around the tiny diameter. Also it is the problem that such tiny wires (not pads) are not very stable in my cardboard. I need some sort of glue on them as well. Maybe.
So...I need your advice, from what to build such tiny pads for a SMD IC pins? and how to stick them more firmly?
Any idea may lead to other ideas. Who knows. Until now i made like 2 or 3 smd IC circuits and it was hard as f**k. I can do it like that again, but... im out for ideas, maybe you may know an easier solution.
Thank you.

 

[marconi]

I will have a think. DPG is following this thread and he may want to suggest something.

I have not used SMD before. Would these adapters help:

8 pin smd ic socket - Recherche Google - https://www.google.com/search?q=8+pin+smd+ic+socket&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB822GB822&sxsrf=ALeKk03xyMjvoWj6OzpKf_NG8WjpeGm6Lw:1618483435600&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM%252CmwP41uPu4pVjrM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQEOag2jnJwNqMV8i8TSghnRkpvBw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiDyIPSiIDwAhVsQ0EAHZU6Dq4Q9QF6BAgSEAE&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM

PS: I may be a little distracted over the next few days but will still look every so often at this thread. We have just returned home with Maud aged 8 weeks a Jack Russell

 

[DPG]

May be worth you buying some standard DIP 555 chips?

Or surface mount devices with an adaptor as per Marconi above. Good solution this.

Or in the past I've glued the surface mount type to a board (piece of plastic etc.) and soldered wires directly to the pins. Use track repair wire or similar fine gauge wire.

 

[_q12x_]

I have both versions DIP8 and SOP8.
For SOP8 I have 100pcs and I really want to use them.
Thanks for your suggestions so far. The adaptor is a good solution, but Ill have to buy it and it takes time to arrive. I want to build this thing these days.
In the end I will experiment more and also use your ideas as well, with glue.
Any other ideas are welcomed.
Also... can you show me your SMD iron tips that you use? Or any other soldering tools specific for smd? The big tip that I have is too much, and is harder with it to get in the right spot, especially if I want to stick wires to the pins. I can do it in the end, but with great effort.

 

[marconi]

I just googled How to solder SMD and this turned up. I have only quickly looked at it but may be useful to you:

How To Do SMD Soldering Using a Soldering Iron - https://www.build-electronic-circuits.com/smd-soldering/#:~:text=SMD%20stands%20for%20Surface%20Mount%20Device%20and%20indicates%20that%20the,thin%20tip%20if%20you%20have)

and this:

You may need to buy a point tip for your iron. I use an Antex iron.

https://cpc.farnell.com/antex/b0057...bzaY8cgJSDc_4UMJCZts1zZToyA247_YaAh0YEALw_wcB

 

[marconi]

If you are happy with the functionality you get from the breadboard right now, it is time to make it on fiberglass board. It's probably a good advice for you, to make it as a definitive project. And dismantle everything you have here on these breadboards. I did the same. Remember the movie where I presented the remote control receiver? It was breadboarded. Now is gone, breadboard is clean again, ready for other experiments. But I made the receiver module in this time, unfortunatly with the same opamps on the breadboard because they were the only ones I had.

Maud is asleep so I can catch up with what you wrote. Unlike you who has a final purpose in mind for this challenging project, my attempt at it is for amusement only and to keep my mind active. Every so often, I have to pluck up the courage and put these breadboards in the boot of my car and take them to the waste disposal site to make more room in my shed. I grieve for a few days afterwards but one has to be realistic about the clutter they create. I have not found anyone locally who wants them. It is the challenge, the doing, the set-backs, the success which provides the enjoyment for me and that is all I want. Anyway, there is no way my 1930's minded wife would allow me to put such technology on the wall in place of:

 

[marconi]

If you decide on which Antex iron and tips you want to buy to do smd soldering let me know. I will then write to them and see if they might send you one to illustrate and review in your videos. No promises but worth a try.

 

[_q12x_]

mister @marconi you are a funny guy.
Ofcourse I could use a free product, im not against free stuff if possible. But for sure im not hunting anything. And all my videos are a collaboration method of communication. I got a ton of help from a couple guys, including you, through these movies I made. This is the MAIN purpose of them. Not to make some comercial bull_sh_t propaganda. Again, and try to trust me, i know you are skeptical, and is healty to be, but sometimes trust by word, especially me, when I say, that what i do, i do it for me. And I am very glad that people likes my project, but that is outside the scope. What is the most important is that I like this project and Im leading it as long and as strong as I can. It's not easy. It is very hard in fact, and very slow.
I managed to make the pads for the smd IC, at least 4 of them on one side. That was mind blowing hard. I tried many permutations and many frustrations attempts. But I get it. I had multiple ideas and also implemented some that didnt work with and how i imagined. Aaah... my back hurts. The conclusion is that Yes, it can be done , but is crazy hard, and definetly not the way to do it too many times for multiple IC's. I dont want to think on IC's with more than 4 pins on one side. Horrible to do it as Im doing it. Trust me. So yes, it is possible, but very hard and very slow to make it. I'll have to think on other more "faster" (nothing is fast in truth) and more easier way to assemble these little black devils.
I knew about these adapters that you mentioned but you know, when you concentrate on something, you tend to forget everything. So your idea was more a reminder and a great help in the same time. I am thinking now, after my HARD manual attempt, to more seriously include them in my designs. I'll have to check the prices now, or go to version 2, buy some copper plated fiberglass and make them myself. I will need in order of hundreds. 100 for the start, but 200 to be on a safe side and if im lucky to find them VERY cheap !!! That's the most important prerogative for me - VERY cheap ! I didnt searched for their prices yet, its the next thing to do next.
And for my current projekt I have 2 realistic options now. I must finish it fast (days), so either I will use the DIP8 package or these very hard to make little experimental pads I did so far for the smd IC. Damn it, they are so hard. I wish they were not so hard, but they are. It's so much easier to work with older components than with smd's !!! Trust me on this.

 

[_q12x_]

also, mister @marconi or other guys that may look over this thread, can you throw a quick search on YOUR favorite online market and find me the CHEAPEST price for "100pcs sop8 adapter" ?
I already give it a search right now and the cheapest possible prices +transport tax I could find for me is 2.68US$. Also, be careful there is product price + transport price, so in total, these 2 must be the cheapest ! Ok? And thanks!
for example, this is what i got: US $2.06 / lot (100 pieces) & Shipping: US $0.62 so in total = 2.68$ at least for my country but it must be very close to this result for you as well, in UK.
Maybe im in luck and you can find it for 1$ ! Worth to ask.

 

[marconi]

New 50Pcs SOP8 SSOP8 TSSOP8 SMD To DIP8 Adapter 065/127mm PCB Board Hot Sal L6C0 | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-50Pcs-SOP8-SSOP8-TSSOP8-SMD-To-DIP8-Adapter-065-127mm-PCB-Board-Hot-Sal-L6C0/402662929329?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D4837e7dbbb9343e0b47001d9127e17fb%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D203273520797%26itm%3D402662929329%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

 

[_q12x_]

i understand, so that is the cheapest you could find. Thank you for your search !

 

[_q12x_]

I put an order for the adapters after all, they were cheap enough. Its just mind blowing hard, making it manually. Oh boy.

 

[_q12x_]

The receiver module, working just perfect from first built and try. Just excellent.

And now the transmitter with 2x555's. You can see those small pads there. So hard to make and place them. So hard.

 

[marconi]

Nice work and splendid progress.
​

mister @marconi you are a funny guy.

Do you man funny haha or funny peculiar? ?

 

[_q12x_]

Thank you ! Though is a bit too overwhelming hard and the little pads, with way too many problems. But the good news is, it can be built like that as well. Hard but possible.
You can see in the right side some black marks, is because the solder does not stick after awhile. Problems. But it seems ok so far. It is not my first smd IC that i worked with, but is a first with all the pads mounted. What a hell. And I have a second one to make as well.
This one is clearly a test as you can see it sits by it's own. I can easily integrate it on the main circuit board now that has all its pads.
If you zoom in the image you can read its a 555. Heh.

 

[marconi]

I remember visiting a US electronics manufacturer called Allied Signal and being astonished by the automated line which produced circuit boards, inspected and tested them and then sent them off for environmental stress testing - without any human hands touching the boards.

Here is a youtube clip of another firm's production line which I thought you'd enjoy watching.

The printed circuit boards in the equipment I am familiar with were multilayer boards in order to make all the necessary connections, so crammed were the the boards with ics. Quite how this was achieved I must one day look up. I know they cost hundreds or more £ pounds each. Costing so much they were often repaired where possible to do so.

 

[_q12x_]

Thank you for the video, very nice and I watched a couple of similar ones in the past. I know about their real existence and how cool they are.
So, mister @marconi I am in need of your assistance. If you can, of course.
It is a side project but is still important to get it rolling. I mentioned I have a pickit2 ready and 10pcs of PIC 12f508.
I stay like 14h to figure out how to install all the necessary software for pickit2 and to actually see the pickit2 listed as normal option to select, because it was gray out and I could not select it as an option. In MPLAB :

Again, I did this thing in the past, and programmed some 16f84A and some others, but not many.
Now that my pickit2 is alive, all I need is the correct stuff to send to it and to it's 12f508 that I installed on a "pickit2 DemoBoard" exactly like this one:

Please tell me what to start to send to it.
I started with these lines yesterday.
As you can see, PICkit 2 is recognized.

But I am not sending something important to him in the code. And I have no clue what is the correct way to send instructions anymore. Maybe you can help me. I know I made it work in 2001 with a special "recipe" in the beginning. But I dont know what it was anymore. Or it was only for certain PIC's like 16F84?
Or at least where to look and search how to transmit the correct header or start of the code?
Thank you !
If I try to program it, I get this error: (the red line)

 

[_q12x_]

And here is how it looks in reality.
The position of the PIC chip is correct, it's chip key pointing up towards the pickit2 black thing programmer.
The leds are connected through those 4 white jumper wires, because this is a 8pin chip and you have to rewire those pins.
I connected:
07-10 = RA0-RC0 = led1=DS1
08-11 = RA1-RC1 = led2=DS2
09-12 = RA2-RC2 = led3=DS3
03-06 = RA3-RC3 = led4=DS4

 

[marconi]

Good morning. I would have to do some reading up first - quite a bit - before I could begin to help. I will see what I can do but it would be at the expense of my Version 3 so I would prefer not to. You might want to ask elsewhere for an earlier response. I have not used a Pickit before. One day I want to buy a Raspberry Pi but at the moment I rather like doing digital circuits 'long hand' using discrete logic ics.

 

[_q12x_]

Good morning and thank you for your response.
If you didn't work with this kind of hardware then I will not put you to trouble.
I will ask somewhere else then.
Here is the datasheet for this particular pic 12f508.

12F508 datasheet

Download 12F508 pdf datasheet file

datasheetspdf.com

Maybe you have luck and you can find the initializing code for it. Take a quick look, maybe you are lucky. If not, then is good that I try it through you as well.
That code that i write there is from other codes, I didnt look (too hard) in this datasheet yet. I did peek in it but not for too long. But I will in the end if nothing else come out.

 

[marconi]

Section 9 page 65 of 110?

 

[_q12x_]

As an alternative, I forget to mention, this is the entire list of PICs I have
12F508
12F629
16F505
16F690
16F84
16F684
but 1 of each, exception for 12F508 where I have 10pcs.

 

[marconi]

Is there a forum group for the PICS where you could ask a question? Or even the Manufacturer's help line? I am of no help I'm afraid to say.

 

[DPG]

Is there a forum group for the PICS where you could ask a question? Or even the Manufacturer's help line? I am of no help I'm afraid to say.

I'd agree with Marconi, check out a more relevant forum. It's over twenty years I think since I programmed PICs, so I won't be much help either.

I used a home made programmer, a very simple one if I remember rightly, to program 16F84s I think. Or was it 16C84s maybe. Anyway, I'm waffling now, but hope you get it sorted.

 

[_q12x_]

I used a home made programmer to program 16F84 as well.
But I have all these 12F508 and I want to use them in some very smart little projects i have in mind.
I managed to built successfully a 16f690 with an older program i had saved there. But nothing on the demoboard, the 4 red leds are not doing anything, yet. I have to figure out the protocol which i totally forgot.
Im not sure exactly what i did back then. I think those saved (working) files were working for this pickit2? or for a serial port? I am not sure.

 

[marconi]

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit2 User Guide 51553a.pdf

Does this help you?

 

[_q12x_]

I made it work. It was simply some file management I had to pay attention. Now is working fine. Thank you.

 

[marconi]

Thank you for the update. I have constructed the three regulated power supplies for Version 3 (+5V logic, +12V and -15V for the op amps and comparators). Now they need testing.

My progress on V3 will halt for a short while because my wife is in hospital, we have a new puppy and I have a new project starting for a client who wants to install a Ground Source Heat Pump to replace his oil fired boiler. He will soon have the solar photovoltaic panels ( 2 x 5kW systems) I mentioned before and already has a solar thermal hot water system. So some thermodynamics will occupy me rather than electronics and I will have to think about the integration of the renewable systems together.

I look forward to seeing the wireless remote IR control system in action. Rest assured I will construct Version 3 to see how well it works. I have decided to stick to the flash A-D converter method but use the strobed comparators I mentioned.

Am I allowed to know were you live to city or region level as I did with 'London'. Just adds to the 'pen pal' interest for me to look up on line and in my atlas of the world.

 

[marconi]

A guide to ground source heat pumps - Energy Saving Trust - https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/ground-source-heat-pumps/

Here is a short video on GSHPs which you might like to watch - a minute or so long. There are also Air source heat pumps.

 

[_q12x_]

Good luck with the heating system project. If you need good ideas, you can talk to me as well. I can return the help.
I am from Romania - Botosani. It is a small town.
I watched your video. Basically, that system is using the heat emanated by a refrigerator to heat water for home appliances. It is a new system I am getting acquainted just now. It is interesting. It is new.

 

[_q12x_]

Many, many, thanks to mister Steve for the remote control module. If it was not him, I could not make it work so good. It's just fantastic when using it live, way batter than my imagination or than watching it in the movie.
A super update:

 

[marconi]

Good work - and pleasing to hear you are happy with your achievements.

How does the remote perform when there is sunlight or high ambient IR in the room? I am interested to know because that is what I am tackling with my Version 3. I have made slow progress this week but some nevertheless as I illustrate in the attached video which shows 5, 0, 12, -15V regulated power supplies and the 555 clock running at 25kHz to run my logic and pulse the LED sensor illuminators.