How to shield a live wire at 240V ?

[marconi]

The pickit2 reminds me of my introduction to microprocessors during my degree when we used a Motorola 8085 kit similar to this:

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetai...raining-kits-with-led-display-4341655888.html

We had to start off doing really basic things like input a word of 8 bit data, doing some mathematical or logical operation on it and then output it to turn on the appropriate Lights representing the output 8 bit word and then after so many seconds flashing on and off these lights.

About a hundred short exercises which gradually became more complicated. Happy days. I ended up using the 8085 to control a chip which compared in a special way ( cross correlation) two 16 bit words. It did not work until the nth version! I will keep n secret.


I commend this bite-size approach to exploring the jungle.

 

[_q12x_]

This video is made for the IR remote control.
I talk here about the 3 remaining things I want to add, and also the motor(s) part.
I actually show them.

 

[marconi]

I have watched your video. Thank you for the update and remarks. Towards the end you talk about finishing off the design perhaps with some enclosure over the modules. Are you aware of ‘light pipes’?

See:

Buy LED Light Pipes | Essentra Components UK - https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/p/led-light-pipes

There are other suppliers which may sell smaller numbers.

I asked my music minded wife the word to describe the beep sound you want to produce. It is an arpeggio.

 

[_q12x_]

Thank you for watching it.
Why do you mention the light pipes? I am aware of their existence, but i did not know the name of them if i wanted to search them. So the name is new for me.
What should I do with them?

 

[marconi]

I thought you could put a cover over the board with the modules on. But that would obscure the LEDs. What you could do is use the light pipes to take the light from the LEDs from the wings moduleto holes in the cover so they could be seen. The light pipes have flat or rounded ends. You as an artist could then design and draw the wings on the cover around these light pipe exit holes.

 

[_q12x_]

I thought you could put a cover over the board with the modules on. But that would obscure the LEDs. What you could do is use the light pipes to take the light from the LEDs from the wings moduleto holes in the cover so they could be seen. The light pipes have flat or rounded ends. You as an artist could then design and draw the wings on the cover around these light pipe exit holes.

One of the original objective for this projekt was to be as FLAT as imaginable. I originally wanted to be flat as a piece of paper or as a paint thickness. Thats like 10micro. But in reality, we have the leds height that add to the board thickness and the other components heights. As you can observe, absolutly no stand up component (or vertical placement), all are horisontal placed to diminish the thickness of this board as originally intended.
I think I understand your point. Because the other components height, I should add these tubes on the leds to get them more in front. Is this correct? Well, it is a nice idea, if I want to cover all the electronics and not use this transparent cover. But the thing is that I want to show all those wires there, all my work. I want to show it is a prototype, because it is.
Yesterday, ALL day, I built the receiver circuit Module. Today I finish it and it works ! Youhoo. Next, is to make the transmiter.

 

[marconi]

You have been more industrious than me. I have at least made a breadboard for version 3 which is bigger. You can see the 850/940nm ir sensor array.

 

[_q12x_]

If you are happy with the functionality you get from the breadboard right now, it is time to make it on fiberglass board. It's probably a good advice for you, to make it as a definitive project. And dismantle everything you have here on these breadboards. I did the same. Remember the movie where I presented the remote control receiver? It was breadboarded. Now is gone, breadboard is clean again, ready for other experiments. But I made the receiver module in this time, unfortunatly with the same opamps on the breadboard because they were the only ones I had.

 

[_q12x_]

mister @marconi - I am in need of your advice.
I have 2x555 to build my transmitter. They are SMD type. With very tiny pins on them.
Usually I cut like 3x3mm metal pad as the tiniest. Sometimes I go to 1x3mm but rarely. The thing is on such tiny surfaces, the solder is not behaving normally as on a pad. It is like a ball all around the tiny diameter. Also it is the problem that such tiny wires (not pads) are not very stable in my cardboard. I need some sort of glue on them as well. Maybe.
So...I need your advice, from what to build such tiny pads for a SMD IC pins? and how to stick them more firmly?
Any idea may lead to other ideas. Who knows. Until now i made like 2 or 3 smd IC circuits and it was hard as f**k. I can do it like that again, but... im out for ideas, maybe you may know an easier solution.
Thank you.

 

[marconi]

I will have a think. DPG is following this thread and he may want to suggest something.

I have not used SMD before. Would these adapters help:

8 pin smd ic socket - Recherche Google - https://www.google.com/search?q=8+pin+smd+ic+socket&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB822GB822&sxsrf=ALeKk03xyMjvoWj6OzpKf_NG8WjpeGm6Lw:1618483435600&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM%252CmwP41uPu4pVjrM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQEOag2jnJwNqMV8i8TSghnRkpvBw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiDyIPSiIDwAhVsQ0EAHZU6Dq4Q9QF6BAgSEAE&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM

PS: I may be a little distracted over the next few days but will still look every so often at this thread. We have just returned home with Maud aged 8 weeks a Jack Russell