Ideas on how to light this old lamppost up?

[ppelec100]

I am going to be installing this lamppost and replying the cable. Only thing is I’m a bit unsure on how to light this old bugger up. I was thinking to send some ho7rn 3 core cable up there and into a bc lamp holder but it doesn’t seem right.

Then I had a look at some images of these lamppost on google and see there are poles which attach to the lamppholder such as this one: Black Victorian Lantern 70cm | Black Country Metalworks - https://www.blackcountrymetalworks.co.uk/victorian-lantern-in-black-medium.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkdDm75nn6gIVku5RCh2vBwcvEAQYBiABEgIw0PD_BwE

What if I cut a small piece of pvc conduit and put an adaptor on the end and screwed into a brass bc lamp holder? I’m thinking that I should use a 3 core flex for the brass lamp holder as it will probably need to be earthed and another 3 core flex but only use the green/yellow core to earth the base of the lantern so theoretically the whole post will be earthed? The customer is going to do some work on the lamppost such as sanding down, painting and adding some glass.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ppelec100]

Help help help

 

[westward10]

You need to use galv conduit and fit a 20mm threaded brass lamp holder, like this.

https://www.lampspares.co.uk/b22-brass-lampholder-with-20mm-base-thread-4303535/?gclid=CjwKCAjwsO_4BRBBEiwAyagRTdI_wXhgKg7tqXVd3Ybvez7ZhktR9nHwifnio07xFeVwvxQYd4YjUxoCEyUQAvD_BwE

Or one of these fitted to a BESA box.

Jeani A83 BC B22D Brass BESA fixing batten holder with shade ring

Buy online Jeani A83 BC B22D Brass BESA fixing batten holder with shade ring batton battan

www.edwardes.co.uk

 

[bill01803]

You could use 1/4" steel extended nipple and the lampholder would screw straight on
BES

 

[pc1966]

The 20mm galvanised conduit seems the best solution as it should be easy to get H07RN-F cable up that.

However, you might find it easier to have a conduit box for the cable at the bottom of the section of conduit to have the earth wire attached, and just run the L & N singles up to the light fitting. The conduit box can also take a plastic gland to grip the H07RN-F cable for strain relief.

 

[littlespark]

Are you suggesting a piece of conduit between the top of the pole and the bottom of the head?
There seems to be a gap and it might look odd??

Would bringing a rubber flex out the top of the pole, with a compression gland or something, and route the flex along the curled metal support, and into the bottom of the head?

 

[Vortigern]

I'm for the 20mm galv and painted black lacquer. Can you get along the centre of the lamp post? (Bit of drilling???)

 

[telectrix]

fork andles. he,he.

or keep it pure original. LPG gas bottle and a gas mantle.

 

[ppelec100]

You need to use galv conduit and fit a 20mm threaded brass lamp holder, like this.

https://www.lampspares.co.uk/b22-brass-lampholder-with-20mm-base-thread-4303535/?gclid=CjwKCAjwsO_4BRBBEiwAyagRTdI_wXhgKg7tqXVd3Ybvez7ZhktR9nHwifnio07xFeVwvxQYd4YjUxoCEyUQAvD_BwE

Or one of these fitted to a BESA box.

Jeani A83 BC B22D Brass BESA fixing batten holder with shade ring

Buy online Jeani A83 BC B22D Brass BESA fixing batten holder with shade ring batton battan

www.edwardes.co.uk

Thanks, I don’t have a stock and die or even conduit bender. I’m just coming out of my apprenticeship. I know this might sound stupid but could I use couplers and nipples put together to creat a long piece of conduit in a way? Also would you recommend the lamp holder floats in the middle of the lantern?
[automerge]1595712267[/automerge]

Are you suggesting a piece of conduit between the top of the pole and the bottom of the head?
There seems to be a gap and it might look odd??

Would bringing a rubber flex out the top of the pole, with a compression gland or something, and route the flex along the curled metal support, and into the bottom of the head?

Yeah I could try and get the conduit as long as I can but will be a slight gap so I don’t damage the cable when fitting it. It may look odd you’re right. Initially my plan was to bring a ho7rn cable out the top of the pole but I can’t fit a compression gland into the hole in the top of the pole. Would some sort of silicone/mastic be okay? I know this isn’t good practice, trying to avoid this method. I was thinking to bring it along the curled metal but again will probably need to be glued, cable ties will show. Also I mm trying to have method of earthing the lamppost too, either by using 1 x 3 core flex OR 1 x 2 core for function and 1 x 3 core but just use the earth to earth. Sorry if that’s confusing.
[automerge]1595712479[/automerge]

fork andles. he,he.

or keep it pure original. LPG gas bottle and a gas mantle.

Muahahaha

 

[ppelec100]

You could use 1/4" steel extended nipple and the lampholder would screw straight on
BES

Would this 1/4” be 25mm I’m guessing? And do the bc brass lamp holders all fit this size as standard or will I need to find one to fit the nipple? Thanks
[automerge]1595711736[/automerge]

The 20mm galvanised conduit seems the best solution as it should be easy to get H07RN-F cable up that.

However, you might find it easier to have a conduit box for the cable at the bottom of the section of conduit to have the earth wire attached, and just run the L & N singles up to the light fitting. The conduit box can also take a plastic gland to grip the H07RN-F cable for strain relief.

This is a good idea I like this, but the box + the plastic gland may show, I can get away with the conduit box maybe. If I use a metal conduit box and earth it and use a metal conduit piece or extended nipple up to the brass lamp holder with a base piece, this would be a good way to earth the whole lamppost too right?
[automerge]1595712433[/automerge]

I'm for the 20mm galv and painted black lacquer. Can you get along the centre of the lamp post? (Bit of drilling???)

Do you mean drilling/smashing a hole in the centre to have a 20mm conduit fit snug inside? It is quite solid and I don’t want to ruin my drill bits lol

 

[Vortigern]

I don’t want to ruin my drill bits

Yeh that was what I was thinking, well not smashing or you will shatter that old pig iron. I have a local engineer who has special drills that he drills out studs on engine blocks that garages can't touch. So I would get someone like that to do the drilling. Unless it is solid all the way through which I would be surprised if it was. I mean the main "trunk" if I could call it that.

 

[pc1966]

Agreed. It won't be solid all the way through but you might have a good 0.5-1cm or so to drill and cast iron is brittle so needs some care. A hole saw and plenty of cutting lubricant might be better than trying to get a 20mm drill through, but speak to local engineering works about ways of doing it.

 

[Vortigern]

Drilling pig iron is hard and needs expensive cobalt drills on a slow speed.

 

[ppelec100]

Agreed. It won't be solid all the way through but you might have a good 0.5-1cm or so to drill and cast iron is brittle so needs some care. A hole saw and plenty of cutting lubricant might be better than trying to get a 20mm drill through, but speak to local engineering works about ways of doing it.

I’ll be honest the job is for an uncle and is on a budget, so it’s not worth that much hassle. I don’t want to go through hole saws they’ll add up lol. But thanks for the great idea and info!
[automerge]1595808027[/automerge]

Yeh that was what I was thinking, well not smashing or you will shatter that old pig iron. I have a local engineer who has special drills that he drills out studs on engine blocks that garages can't touch. So I would get someone like that to do the drilling. Unless it is solid all the way through which I would be surprised if it was. I mean the main "trunk" if I could call it that.

I’ll give it a shot but not going to get someone else to have a go, too much expense. Job is on a budget, it’s for a family member. Thanks

 

[davesparks]

Agreed. It won't be solid all the way through but you might have a good 0.5-1cm or so to drill and cast iron is brittle so needs some care. A hole saw and plenty of cutting lubricant might be better than trying to get a 20mm drill through, but speak to local engineering works about ways of doing it.

Cutting lubricant is actually not required for cast iron, all it does is make a mess and get turned in to smoke.
Cast iron has a lot of fine carbon deposits in it, these lubricate the cutting edge without the need to add any extra lubricant.

If you watch any of the good engineers/machinists on YouTube (doubleboost, abom79, etc) working with cast iron you'll see that they don't use any lubricants for this reason.

 

[telectrix]

a good holesaw, slow speed and patience. spray water periodically to prevent overheating, but as davesparks said, lubricant not required.

 

[pc1966]

Yes, having seen the comments here and looked around it does appear to be the case that most suggest no lube for cast iron for that reason.

20mm is quite big to be able to use a drill bit without a bench drill press, so a hole saw would appear to be worth trying. Even if you only get a couple of holes out of one it is probably cost-effective enough here!