Kitchen Socket Circuits??

[Paul505]

A little far away

I have no preferred method, every kitchen is different.

From Pull Up Sockets in the worktop, to pull down sockets hidden in the wall units. Isolators in a Larder unit for appliances to some grid switching, or a sub DB for appliances. Also have the likes of a bank of switches contolling contactors, but that can get expensive.

Thanks for adding

 

[Paul505]

until appliance manufacturers make allowances for a socket outlet & plug behind their stupid appliances, this debate will go on for years. it's not rocket science. appliance needs electricity to work. this is usually supplied by a socket outlet. that's why they fit plugs on their appliances. one day they might realise that these plugs what they fit are not just for decoration. they need to be plugged in to a suitable socket within reach of their ridiculously short leads.

What's your preferred method anyway?

 

[Paul505]

Thanks for adding

 

[Paul505]

I keep cocking up on this forum with the way I'm replying.
Thanks for the replies tonight gents anyway.... keep them coming still!

 

[rolyberkin]

The only person who would ever think that having an isolation switch in plain view as a preferred option is an electrician or geek. And don't get me onto grid switches. In the last 10 years in my kitchen I have never had to turn off an appliance quickly, and if I had, I could have isolated it by either using the plug in the cupboard next to the appliance or using the functional switch for the circuit in my consumer unit. All appliances are fed from switched single socket outlets in the adjacent cupboard and I always fit kitchens this way. Modern appliances are generally low power consumption so don't sweat the small stuff, put it all on a kitchen rfc, get those switches hidden away, forget about them and move on.

 

[Paul505]

The only person who would ever think that having an isolation switch in plain view as a preferred option is an electrician or geek. And don't get me onto grid switches. In the last 10 years in my kitchen I have never had to turn off an appliance quickly, and if I had, I could have isolated it by either using the plug in the cupboard next to the appliance or using the functional switch for the circuit in my consumer unit. All appliances are fed from switched single socket outlets in the adjacent cupboard and I always fit kitchens this way. Modern appliances are generally low power consumption so don't sweat the small stuff, put it all on a kitchen rfc, get those switches hidden away, forget about them and move on.

Cooker switch... on show or hidden away like your skts in adjacent cupboards?? Like your passion and straight the point answer

 

[Paul505]

The only person who would ever think that having an isolation switch in plain view as a preferred option is an electrician or geek. And don't get me onto grid switches. In the last 10 years in my kitchen I have never had to turn off an appliance quickly, and if I had, I could have isolated it by either using the plug in the cupboard next to the appliance or using the functional switch for the circuit in my consumer unit. All appliances are fed from switched single socket outlets in the adjacent cupboard and I always fit kitchens this way. Modern appliances are generally low power consumption so don't sweat the small stuff, put it all on a kitchen rfc, get those switches hidden away, forget about them and move on.

Cooker switch... on show or hidden away like your skts in adjacent cupboards?? Like your passion and straight the point answer

Cooker switch... on show or hidden away like your skts in adjacent cupboards?? Like your passion and straight the point answer

The only person who would ever think that having an isolation switch in plain view as a preferred option is an electrician or geek. And don't get me onto grid switches. In the last 10 years in my kitchen I have never had to turn off an appliance quickly, and if I had, I could have isolated it by either using the plug in the cupboard next to the appliance or using the functional switch for the circuit in my consumer unit. All appliances are fed from switched single socket outlets in the adjacent cupboard and I always fit kitchens this way. Modern appliances are generally low power consumption so don't sweat the small stuff, put it all on a kitchen rfc, get those switches hidden away, forget about them and move on.

If your not an electrician or a geek.... what are you then?

 

[rolyberkin]

Cooker switch... on show or hidden away like your skts in adjacent cupboards?? Like your passion and straight the point answer

Hidden away of course, in a cupboard next to cooker, is a cooker switch a thing of beauty............no! The only time I need to find a cooker switch is when I change the cooker.

 

[rolyberkin]

Cooker switch... on show or hidden away like your skts in adjacent cupboards?? Like your passion and straight the point answer


If your not an electrician or a geek.... what are you then?

A customer!;-)

 

[Paul505]

A customer!;-)

Hahaaaa

 

[Paul505]

Hahaaaa

Bed zzzzzzzzz

 

[pirate]

I tell 'em...want your washing machine or tumble drier plugged in to a socket behind? With a sfcu above the worktop? Specify a 700mm worktop then. Simple. Oh, that'll be expensive! Yes, and a nightmare for the poor tester in a rented house who has to lug them appliances out anyway...
Socket in adjacent cupboard, or extension lead in kickspace...come on, how often is that a problem?
Accessibility is the key, IMHO.

 

[Dave OCD]

Maybe it's just me but in my view using extension leads to permanently supply appliances = total bodge.

 

[pirate]

Yes...I know...but hear what others say on here too. Only time I need a cooker switch is when i change the cooker...
The use of an extension lead is not a problem for fixed, sorry, stationary appliances. The testing regulations, sorry, recommendations state that extension leads should be tested according to their usage. Those used in general, multiple usage are obvioulsy more likely to suffer damage, those serving a large, stationary appliance are not.
Case in point...large "American Fridge freezer"...plugged into a single socket at skirting level behind. It's full of food, weighs about half a ton...you need to isolate it? Pull it out? No, you go to the top of the unit and unplug it from the extension lead that has been looped up from the socket to the top of the unit...that way it can be tested. Yes, the FVI is compromised but let's be fair, it hasn't moved for 5 years, so only rodent chewing could have caused a problem...and if it tests ok, it probably is ok. Plus, if you really do want to pull it out, the length of the extension allows that...so, not a total bodge, in my view...not perfect either, but perfection is more difficult to obtain. It is possible, and I have done it, but for the vast majority of normal folks it isn't achievable. So, similarly, with washing machines and tumble driers, bring their cables into the dead space next door...ie into the adjacent cupboard, or the kickspace, and they are readily accessible. I fully accept that there are some minor risks, but I also suggest that these are minuscule compared with dragging appliances out for testing then shoving them back in, hoping that the compression/crushing of the flexes doesn't compromise the electrical safety. I'd far rather be able to check the connections in plain view than have to rely on hope that all is well behind the scene.

 

[telectrix]

everything in a kitchen is supposed to be functional, not decorative. it's a room for preparing and cooking food, not some shiny showroom to show off to the neighbours. next thing is we''ll be wanting to hide the hob under some smoked glass cover so it's not seen.

 

[pirate]

haha! Glass cover! Like back in the '70s? Not seen anything like that these days...
oh...
Buy Bush AG66TW Twin Gas Cooker - White at Argos.co.uk - Your Online Shop for Freestanding cookers, Cooking, Large kitchen appliances, Home and garden. - http://www.argos.co.uk/product/4898892?cmpid=GS001&_$ja=tsid:59158|cid:200294090|agid:12525738410|tidla-94833711290|crid:66128561690|nw:g|rnd:685911627093588425|dvc:c|adp:1o2|mt:|loc:9046933&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt4XWg9by1wIVKLftCh0t_A9iEAQYAiABEgKnifD_BwE

Crikey, there's 100s of them out there

 

[sheppertonspark]

Oven, Hob or microwave accessible above the counter for "emergency switching" , the rest, hide them away out of sight.

 

[telectrix]

Oven, Hob or microwave accessible above the counter for "emergency switching" , the rest, hide them away out of sight.

can't do that. all cupboards are full of the screaming kids, hidden away out of sight.

 

[Generator]

This kitchen argument drives me mad!
What's the first priority of the regs - Safety?
What's (or should be) the first priority of an electrician - Safety?
What's the most common source of 'fire causing' failure - Connections.
So why bury a plug and socket well out of sight, behind a machine or in a cupboard full of flammable material? - I know - cos it's pretty!
That's what matters most, isn't it?
Rolyberkin : when your oven starts crackling and smoking, your customer needs to switch it off - quick!
I think DP switches above a machine are best, with sufficient flex to allow m/c withdrawal - but don't go adding a socket outlet behind - that defeats the whole purpose ( it can also get wet!).
I do hope the 18th brings some common sense to this, even if it just means you can say " sorry missus, that's the new regs"

 

[HandySparks]

...What's the most common source of 'fire causing' failure - Connections.
...
I think DP switches above a machine are best, with sufficient flex to allow m/c withdrawal - but don't go adding a socket outlet behind - that defeats the whole purpose...

So where and how would you make the connection between the fixed wiring and a washing machine flex?