Discuss Outside tap in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

marcuswareham

Esteemed
Arms
Reaction score
199
Hi all

I am on a TN-C-S / PME supply and have an outside tap, I have fitted it with 5 speedfit plastic elbows and a speedfit all plastic valve. So having so much plastic in place that should be the recommended insulated section of pipe to prevent dangerous voltages being on the tap in the event of a PEN failure

With the pipes full of water the resistance between the MET and the outside tap is 1726 ohms, so I work that out to be a potential current of 133mA which is still enough to be potentially fatal?

Please correct me if I am wrong here?

I know people say the risk of a PEN fault is so low you don't worry about it, but if it never happened why all the regulations for EV charging from PME, also I live in a very windy little village with individual overhead cables from the transformer down the street and UK power networks are often out to repair them. Information from UK power networks would indicate there is an electrode at the transformer and 2 more down the road, it seems the nearest to my house is 8 poles away and some of those poles look as if they could fall down lol, so if its gonna to happen anywhere I guess it would be here.

Thanks Marcus
 
If the poles come down then you'll far more likely loose all conductors, not just the PEN.

Is it ABC or seperate cables on the poles?

What do you mean by a recommended insulated section of pipe? I'm not aware of any recommendations regarding this.
 
I think you are worrying unnecessarily. However a simple step you could take is to install an earth electrode to the earthing system which would reduce or eliminate the miniscule risk. This was in fact considered, and rejected as a requirement of the recent 18th edition of the regulations.
 
What do you mean by a recommended insulated section of pipe? I'm not aware of any recommendations regarding this.
I suspect this is a confusion regarding main bonding, where it has been clarified in the 18th that an insulating section at the point of entry negates the requirement for main bonding, however that is not the same as recommending an insulating section should be present.
 
If the poles come down then you'll far more likely loose all conductors, not just the PEN.

Is it ABC or seperate cables on the poles?

What do you mean by a recommended insulated section of pipe? I'm not aware of any recommendations regarding this.

Hey no its is not aerial bundled cable it is separate cables and from what I can tell to an untrained eye the PEN is the bottom one, so that was what I meant about the likely hood of just one cable i.e the PEN breaking. Yes exactly see what you mean that they would most likely all go if a pole falls down, but maybe something less dramatic might kill the PEN

Sorry the insulated section of pipe recommendation is an un-official recommendation I have read on a few forum posts etc, so what people say they do etc
[automerge]1587410134[/automerge]
As I've mentioned on your other threads, a couple of earth electrodes connected to the MET of the installation will help reduce the risk.

Exactly doing the math to get under touch voltage the earth electrodes would have to be around 1-3 ohm mark, I am fairly sure I will not achieve that
[automerge]1587410154[/automerge]
 
Sorry the insulated section of pipe recommendation is an un-official recommendation I have read on a few forum posts etc, so what people say they do etc

Exactly doing the math to get under touch voltage the earth electrodes would have to be around 1-3 ohm mark, I am fairly sure I will not achieve that
[automerge]1587410154[/automerge]

I've never seen that recommended on this forum.
Obviously it's dependant largely on exactly what is in the water at any one time, so hard to calculate exactly, but I think for 15mm pipe the plastic section needs to be well over half a metre to have any chance of achieving a high enough resistance with the 'average' hard water in the UK.
 
Does anyone know of any other way to mitigate against it, our outside tap is in regular use and it is above soil and a few loose stones and of course the floor gets wet increasing conductivity

I did try a plastic tap, but they are hard to get hold of (or at least good ones) the one I got hold of was a bit pants, it was on for about 4 days then the treads broke and it shot its self across the drive.

Also how would you work out the touch voltage on the tap should you have a PEN fault, I know the impedance of my extraneous conductive parts without them being connected to the MET, however what would you put in for the current as who knows how many houses would be on the same conductor
[automerge]1587410483[/automerge]
why not fit a plastic tap?

Sorry I think I was typing at the same time, I tried plastic tap, didnt end that well
 
I suspect this is a confusion regarding main bonding, where it has been clarified in the 18th that an insulating section at the point of entry negates the requirement for main bonding, however that is not the same as recommending an insulating section should be present.

Which is still something I don't like, they really should have specified how long the insulating section should be, or at least that testing must still be carried out.
As has been proved in this thread a short section of plastic water pipe isn't enough as the water itself has some conductivity
 
I've never seen that recommended on this forum.
Obviously it's dependant largely on exactly what is in the water at any one time, so hard to calculate exactly, but I think for 15mm pipe the plastic section needs to be well over half a metre to have any chance of achieving a high enough resistance with the 'average' hard water in the UK.

I can't remember if it was on these forums or another, but iv read it somewhere in a few posts, they mentioned just using a plastic coupler

I see what you mean about the length of plastic, I might have some 15mm barrier pipe kicking about somewhere and its somthing to try while I am stuck at home
 
I can't remember if it was on these forums or another, but iv read it somewhere in a few posts, they mentioned just using a plastic coupler

Then it's clearly someone who hasn't got a clue what they are talking about.
A plastic coupler would only work with pure water as it's non conductive. Mains water has all sorts of things dissolved in it making it relatively conductive.
 
With the pipes full of water the resistance between the MET and the outside tap is 1726 ohms, so I work that out to be a potential current of 133mA which is still enough to be potentially fatal?
Hi - when I made a similar measurement some time back I recall I got about 200K Ohms rather than the 2K (ish) you’ve measured. I will revisit, but could there be a measurement problem? Or perhaps another path separate from the pipework?
 
As I've mentioned on your other threads, a couple of earth electrodes connected to the MET of the installation will help reduce the risk.

How would you work out how much you have reduced the risk by?

if say i have earth rod of 30ohms connected to the MET , in aim to bring the touch voltage down from PEN fault, how much would that bring the touch voltage down to?
 
Hi - when I made a similar measurement some time back I recall I got about 200K Ohms rather than the 2K (ish) you’ve measured. I will revisit, but could there be a measurement problem? Or perhaps another path separate from the pipework?

How long was the section of insulated pipe you measured this with? And also what is your water supply like for hardness?
[automerge]1587411754[/automerge]
How would you work out how much you have reduced the risk by?

if say i have earth rod of 30ohms connected to the MET , in aim to bring the touch voltage down from PEN fault, how much would that bring the touch voltage down to?

That all depends on the specific details of the PEN fault, how many installations remain connected to your earth electrode, what the resistance to earth of any bonded metalwork is, what loads are connected during the fault etc etc
 
Hi - when I made a similar measurement some time back I recall I got about 200K Ohms rather than the 2K (ish) you’ve measured. I will revisit, but could there be a measurement problem? Or perhaps another path separate from the pipework?

humm, of course there could be a problem with my measurements. lucky enough I can reach MET in meter box and the outside tap just about with the length of the leads from my MFT, not sure how i would be getting the measurement wrong although

I live in quite a hard water area, that might make the difference
 
I can't remember if it was on these forums or another, but iv read it somewhere in a few posts, they mentioned just using a plastic coupler

I see what you mean about the length of plastic, I might have some 15mm barrier pipe kicking about somewhere and its somthing to try while I am stuck at home

Marcus, it appears you are correct on this one. Engineering Recommendation G12 is guidance for DNOs, to help them decide when PME earthing can be provided. This is quoted from it:

6.2.11 External exposed metalwork connected to the internal earth system (including outside water taps)

Under an open-circuit supply neutral condition the potential of external metalwork could rise above earth potential if it is connected to the internal earth. A person coming into contact with it could receive an electric shock and the shock could be severe if that person were barefooted. The probability of these two conditions occurring together is considered to be so small that the use of PME where external exposed metalwork exists is not precluded.

An insulating insert may be incorporated in the pipe to an outside water tap. However, care should be taken to ensure that simultaneous contact with metal pipework on each side of the insert is not possible if there is likely to be a potential across the insert under this condition.
 
That all depends on the specific details of the PEN fault, how many installations remain connected to your earth electrode, what the resistance to earth of any bonded metalwork is, what loads are connected during the fault etc etc

Doh, Yes I was trying to use the example in the regs for working out what resistance would be needed for an earth electrode and a car charger on PME, but didn't know what figure to use as the load
[automerge]1587414760[/automerge]
Marcus, it appears you are correct on this one. Engineering Recommendation G12 is guidance for DNOs, to help them decide when PME earthing can be provided. This is quoted from it:

6.2.11 External exposed metalwork connected to the internal earth system (including outside water taps)

Under an open-circuit supply neutral condition the potential of external metalwork could rise above earth potential if it is connected to the internal earth. A person coming into contact with it could receive an electric shock and the shock could be severe if that person were barefooted. The probability of these two conditions occurring together is considered to be so small that the use of PME where external exposed metalwork exists is not precluded.

An insulating insert may be incorporated in the pipe to an outside water tap. However, care should be taken to ensure that simultaneous contact with metal pipework on each side of the insert is not possible if there is likely to be a potential across the insert under this condition.

ah very good thanks for that, shame they dont say what plastic insert and how long
[automerge]1587415098[/automerge]
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/pegler-pb50-hose-union-bib-tap-15mm-x/6263v

maybe an outside tap like that, with rubber/plastic over the handel so dont come in-contact with the metal

or a big rubber mat to stand on :- D
 
Last edited:
Doh, Yes I was trying to use the example in the regs for working out what resistance would be needed for an earth electrode and a car charger on PME, but didn't know what figure to use as the load
[automerge]1587414760[/automerge]


ah very good thanks for that, shame they dont say what plastic insert and how long

This is from one of Chris Kitcher's books:


It is a common belief that water in pipe work will conduct: in fact the current which will flow through water across a plastic fitting filled with water is very small.
To find out how much current would flow I carried out a controlled experiment using two short lengths of copper pipe. These were joined using a plastic push fit coupler. Once fully pushed home the pipes were no more than 2mm apart (Figure 4.24).

The pipe was then filled with tap water and the ends were connected to a 230v supply. The current flowing was so low that my clamp meter would not measure it, as it only measures down to 0.1mA. The current flow would increase if the water had central heating additives in it, but not considerably.
 
This is from one of Chris Kitcher's books:


It is a common belief that water in pipe work will conduct: in fact the current which will flow through water across a plastic fitting filled with water is very small.
To find out how much current would flow I carried out a controlled experiment using two short lengths of copper pipe. These were joined using a plastic push fit coupler. Once fully pushed home the pipes were no more than 2mm apart (Figure 4.24).

The pipe was then filled with tap water and the ends were connected to a 230v supply. The current flowing was so low that my clamp meter would not measure it, as it only measures down to 0.1mA. The current flow would increase if the water had central heating additives in it, but not considerably.

Interesting, I might do my own version of that exsperimemt tomorrow (i know dont try at home, i will be careful) maybe i have supper conductive water, or somehow an earthed metal part in my wall touching the copper pipe where it goes though. I suspect not to both of those, i do like an exsperimemt though

0.1mA is extremely low
 

Reply to Outside tap in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Similar Threads

  • Question
Hi there, I’m a new member to the forum and felt like I could do with some additional insight into a fault I came across on a call-out at the...
Replies
6
Views
461
5 single phases to one huge property. Backup generator which can take about 106 amps split between 2 phases - 1 phase will be wired through...
Replies
2
Views
523
Evening everyone . Currently looking at pricing a job up . It’s a hot tub supply . Outside socket with a few spare ways in an outdoor cu . 10mm...
Replies
7
Views
557
Hi, I'm a DIY'er looking to build a 6x8 shed in my backyard in Colorado. I'm installing a gravel pad first, with 4 concrete Sonotube...
Replies
1
Views
328
Hi all, Been browsing these forums for a while, always great to learn a new way to skin the same cat. Anyway, cut a long story short, was an...
Replies
11
Views
616

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

Electrical Forum

Welcome to the Electrical Forum at ElectriciansForums.net. The friendliest electrical forum online. General electrical questions and answers can be found in the electrical forum.
This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by Untold Media. Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock