Discuss Roller shutters UPS advise in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Good morning ,


My name is Martin and I hope someone can help.

I am planning to install domestic roller shutter onto our home.

At first , I was going to appoint an electrician to run the wiring from the shutter motors to the lighting circuit, but then I realized that I need an emergency power supply, so shutters can be opened in case of a power cut.
I will run individual wires from each motor to a UPS.

I will have 8 shutters , 4 on each floor , 1 UPS upstairs and 1 downstairs. Smart UPS APC 1500IC 900w , Motors power is 2 x 120W and 2 x 90W per floor , I connected the alarm and the Home Automation CLU to the upstairs UPS too.
Power connected per UPS is just over 50% of its capacity. UPS power IN is connected with a wall plug (with 6AMP fuse) and IEC C13 plug (rated at 10AMPs) from the wall socket to the UPS with 3 core 1.5mm wire.
Power OUT - Each motor will have IEC C14 at the end to connect to the UPS.
Ground is connected from the wall plug to C13 plug , and UPS has a separate screw for a ground which is also connected from C13 plug( I added an external wire to the plug )– all connected as per PIC1&PCI2)

Motors come with 3 metre 4 core 0.75mm wire , installation manual show connection with 0.75mm to the roller shutters operating switch , then 1.5mm from the switch to the circuit.
My installation is slightly different as it will be controlled by CLU and I need to extend the cable)

Is there any issue with connecting the 0.75mm wire from the motor to a 1.5mm wire in a junction box to extend the length of the cable from 3m to around 9-10m, then this extended cable will be connected via C14 plug to the UPS?( I understand that regulation state that wire to the UPS should not be longer than 10m). Does the cable between UPS and the motor need any addition protection? My understanding is that Ups will protect the motor and the cable.

Is the ground the UPS connected in a correct way (PIC1&PIC2)?

Do I need any other protection at any point of my installation that I didn’t think about ?

Am I right in thinking that if motors are connected to the UPS, I do not need NEC Cert for small alternation?

Are there any regulation/ advise stating that UPS can not be placed close to Consumer unit or in the same room where hot water tank is ? I don’t really like having Ups in a room with water tank, but I am struggling to find another place for it.
Temperature in this room is around 26 degrees with 40% humidity. I may move it to the loft next year, but first roof needs to be insulated, as at the moment temperature is around 9-10 degreed and Humidity is 85-95%. (PIC3)

I added some home automation modules around the house, when whole system is finished , I will appoint an electrician to check and issue a new electrical safety cert , but for the time being I would like to make sure that all is done correctly.


Thank you for your help in advance,

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This sounds like a nightmare with lots of possible technical and safety problems. Most shutters that need to work during a power cut have 12/24V motors and large rechargeable batteries.
 
This sounds like a nightmare with lots of possible technical and safety problems. Most shutters that need to work during a power cut have 12/24V motors and large rechargeable batteries.
It is common for fire shutters to have 230v UPS back up.
 
If I were doing it,
I think would be considering putting a split board in with one side from grid, other side from ups.

Each blind would have its own fcu for local isolation.

What your doing sounds like a recipe for trouble. Especially for fault finding.
 
It is common for fire shutters to have 230v UPS back up.
Fire shutters and smoke screens, at least the ones I've seen, (shopping malls, commercial atriams multi screen cinemas etc,) close in the event of an alarm. Most also have a fail safe mechanism that will let them drop in the event of a power and back up failure. Require pyro or FP wiring and are expensive.

We are talking domestic here, and if they are going to be closed while the building is occupied then I wouldn't be totally reliant on some battery back up, which could be the cause of the alarm in the first place, to ensure I can exit the building when I want, from wherever I want, if the needs be.

If the OP doesn't have a manual means of opening the shutters then I suggest they swap them for some that do, or only drop the shutters when the house is unoccupied.
 
The pictures look as though this work has already been carried out, however, if there are any protection devices on the secondary side of the UPS, I doubt they will operate as there will be insufficient fault current available from the UPS, this means that if any one if the four devices connected to the UPS has a fault it will result in the UPS shutting down making fault finding a little difficult. As suggested above I would result to a manual method of opening in the rare event of a power cut rather than rely on a UPS. (The batteries won’t last that long anyway!)
 

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