joeu25
DIY
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Sorry for the long first post, I wanted to be as thorough as possible.
On my landing I have a 2-way switch setup, one of which is 3-gang, one of which is 1-gang, and I’m looking to replace them with smart switches. I’ve purchased a few BroadLink LC-1 switches based off the recommendations of various online sources.
The 3-gang controls bathroom downlights, bathroom extractor fan, (which has a separate isolator switch) and landing lights.
The 1-gang controls the landing lights. (So only the landing lights are 2-way). The smart switches I have purchased do not require neutral wires - but neutral wires are present behind the 3-gang switch, they’re just all terminated together in a terminal block.
I took the 3-gang off the wall, and realised it was a bit more complex than I expected it to be. So I started with a 3-gang 1-way smart switch in my kitchen, a bit simpler, which went smoothly and gave me the confidence to now re-visit the switches on the landing.
My research has led me to believe that in order for this to work, (due to the nature of how smart switches are designed), the original circuit needs to become 1-way, keeping the 3-gang switch controlling everything, and removing the 1-gang switch from the circuit entirely. I then need to purchase what is effectively a ‘remote’ smart switch, to install in-place of the existing 1-gang. Through ‘smart scenes’, this ‘remote’ switch will effectively send a signal to the 3-gang switch telling it to turn on the lights. The 1-gang wouldn’t actually be connected to the circuit, as such.
What I can’t quite figure out, is whether I must terminate the existing cabling running to the 1-gang, and install a battery-powered ‘remote’ smart switch (not ideal), OR, whether I can somehow power a 1-gang smart switch there using the existing cabling that runs between the switches. (Preferred, if at all possible).
The smart switch has L, (mains live) then L1, L2, L3 for the lights/extractor/lights.
I’ve included a photo of the existing 3-gang switch along with my assumptions of what everything is. If anyone can advise on whether I’m on the right track, it’d be much appreciated.
From left to right on the back of the switch:
Landing lights (2-way), extractor fan, Bathroom lights
Starting with bathroom lights: L1 comes in from the left of the backbox, only 2 other wires connect to the switch from here: the brown wire going into COM of bathroom lights, and the black wire going into L1 of extractor fan.
I’m therefore assuming that the wire from left of backbox into COM of bathroom lights (far right gang) is the main live wire, and the wire in L1 is switch-live for bathroom light ring. Is this correct? But then why does a wire also come into this COM from the opposite site of the backbox?
I’m also assuming the black wire in L1 extractor fan (centre gang) is the switch-live to the extractor, and the feed into centre COM provides mains live.
This leaves the left gang, for the landing, which is blowing my mind. My assumption is that 3 of these wires connect to the other switch.
Im assuming grey wire in L2 needs terminated, and the link coming in from centre COM should swap from L2 to COM, terminating the brown wire in COM currently. This leaves a black and a brown in L1 - which of these should be terminated to complete the shut-off of the other switch? And why are there 8 ‘incoming’ wires connected to this switch? It seems like 1 more than it should be.
Any and all insight or advice much appreciated.
On my landing I have a 2-way switch setup, one of which is 3-gang, one of which is 1-gang, and I’m looking to replace them with smart switches. I’ve purchased a few BroadLink LC-1 switches based off the recommendations of various online sources.
The 3-gang controls bathroom downlights, bathroom extractor fan, (which has a separate isolator switch) and landing lights.
The 1-gang controls the landing lights. (So only the landing lights are 2-way). The smart switches I have purchased do not require neutral wires - but neutral wires are present behind the 3-gang switch, they’re just all terminated together in a terminal block.
I took the 3-gang off the wall, and realised it was a bit more complex than I expected it to be. So I started with a 3-gang 1-way smart switch in my kitchen, a bit simpler, which went smoothly and gave me the confidence to now re-visit the switches on the landing.
My research has led me to believe that in order for this to work, (due to the nature of how smart switches are designed), the original circuit needs to become 1-way, keeping the 3-gang switch controlling everything, and removing the 1-gang switch from the circuit entirely. I then need to purchase what is effectively a ‘remote’ smart switch, to install in-place of the existing 1-gang. Through ‘smart scenes’, this ‘remote’ switch will effectively send a signal to the 3-gang switch telling it to turn on the lights. The 1-gang wouldn’t actually be connected to the circuit, as such.
What I can’t quite figure out, is whether I must terminate the existing cabling running to the 1-gang, and install a battery-powered ‘remote’ smart switch (not ideal), OR, whether I can somehow power a 1-gang smart switch there using the existing cabling that runs between the switches. (Preferred, if at all possible).
The smart switch has L, (mains live) then L1, L2, L3 for the lights/extractor/lights.
I’ve included a photo of the existing 3-gang switch along with my assumptions of what everything is. If anyone can advise on whether I’m on the right track, it’d be much appreciated.
From left to right on the back of the switch:
Landing lights (2-way), extractor fan, Bathroom lights
Starting with bathroom lights: L1 comes in from the left of the backbox, only 2 other wires connect to the switch from here: the brown wire going into COM of bathroom lights, and the black wire going into L1 of extractor fan.
I’m therefore assuming that the wire from left of backbox into COM of bathroom lights (far right gang) is the main live wire, and the wire in L1 is switch-live for bathroom light ring. Is this correct? But then why does a wire also come into this COM from the opposite site of the backbox?
I’m also assuming the black wire in L1 extractor fan (centre gang) is the switch-live to the extractor, and the feed into centre COM provides mains live.
This leaves the left gang, for the landing, which is blowing my mind. My assumption is that 3 of these wires connect to the other switch.
Im assuming grey wire in L2 needs terminated, and the link coming in from centre COM should swap from L2 to COM, terminating the brown wire in COM currently. This leaves a black and a brown in L1 - which of these should be terminated to complete the shut-off of the other switch? And why are there 8 ‘incoming’ wires connected to this switch? It seems like 1 more than it should be.
Any and all insight or advice much appreciated.
- TL;DR
- Want to replace a 2-way switch (a 3-gang & a 1-gang) with smart switches. The 3-gang is like a mess of spaghetti & I’m hoping someone qualified/with more know-how than me can help shed some light on what on earth all the wires into the switch are, and which 3 need terminated to make it 1-way.