Discuss Use of FP200. Will it get messed up by too much flexing? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

1Justin

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I have electrics to add in a listed barn. It's a unlined shell of a building, grubby cobwebby beams and timbers with external claddding. Customer must have all black wiring so as to hide it as much as possible. Everything will be clipped with metal accessories. Trunking/conduits are too big and because the whole building is utterly wonky, nothing which is straight or right angled will fit anyhow.
The BLACK thing has me going, so prevents T&E.
I immediately said to the customer I could run it in H07RN-F which is defined as "heavy duty" (Hence OK for permanent wiring re 521.9.1 and BS50565-1. ).
The slimmer, cheaper and easier to use H05RR-F (Which is most rubber cable in distributors) is not defined as "heavy duty" but merely "tough". This gets into semantics, but sticking with the regs and BS50565-1, I must have "heavy duty" (that does seem to be a technical terminology) cable for permanent wiring. Hence will probably make myself insist on H07RN-F

An alternative might be black FP200. I have to admit I've not used FP cable in the past. My thinking is, I'll be up a ladder and scaffold looping and flexing this round 300 year old dirty beams. I'm concerned that the FP200 being stiff with it's alloy tube will end up a complete mess if it gets flexed much during install. - Would I be right in that prediction?
 
Hi - I don't use it myself, as there seems to be advice that it's not approved under BS7671 for fixed installations, but I may be mistaken (?).

Think you may be mistaken mate. We have talked about SY cable not being suitable for 'fixed installations' and that in them posts NYY-J was suggested as a cable that can be.
 
FP is pretty tough and takes a beating on commercial jobs when dryliners are bashing it about boarding. I think it should be fine as long as your gentle with it, NYY-J is very heavy duty and very versatile but can be a pain to terminate.
 
I've only used it once, on a barn conversion. It was a bit trouble some, especially at the DB end with the mass of cables. I was only involved in the 2nd fix, it's almost impossible to do without the appropriate stripping device.
 
Hi Justin
I have used FP a number of times whilst helping to install fire alarm systems. You are correct in asking if it can get messed up if it is flexed too much. From my experience the answer is yes, it will get messed up, you can not treat it the same as pvc twin and earth. But if you make sure it is uncoiled in a controlled manner and the plumbers are not constantly standing on it then things will be fine. It can be made to look incredibly neat when clipped correctly, a bit like pyro.

As for stripping FP, from what I remember we just used a stanley knife, scoring around the outer sleeving, obviously checking to make sure the conductors beneath the internal foil shrouding we not damaged, then bend the cable a few times and the outer sheath snapped. Then sleeve the bare cpc and add the ferrule.

I am sorry if others think this is bad advice but this is my experience..

all the best
Sym
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Justin
I have used FP a number of times whilst helping to install fire alarm systems. You are correct in asking if it can get messed up if it is flexed too much. From my experience the answer is yes, it will get messed up, you can not treat it the same as pvc twin and earth. But if you make sure it is uncoiled in a controlled manner and the plumbers are not constantly standing on it then things will be fine. It can be made to look incredibly neat when clipped correctly, a bit like pyro.

As for stripping FP, from what I remember we just used a stanley knife, scoring around the outer sleeving, obviously checking to make sure the conductors beneath the internal foil shrouding we not damaged, then bend the cable a few times and the outer sheath snapped. Then sleeve the bare cpc and add the ferrule.

I am sorry if others think this is bad advice but this is my experience..

all the best
Sym
 
Remember the NICEIC do not make the rules, they like to think they do but they don't, wonder how many Old tags I'll get for that comment?

I love it when people come on here and “the NICEIC said” as it usually shows how little training they have had.
 
I love it when people come on here and “the NICEIC said” as it usually shows how little training they have had.
Know what you mean Dillb, reckon I know of one who will bite, let you lnowif he does.
 
No different to someone saying I went on a electrical forum last night; a bunch of them said FP2000 is a pain to work with. Only difference is the NIC charge you for their opinions :)
Not really, a forum is a open debate which anyone can join in. The way the NICEIC brigade go on, its the be all and end all of topic as they have said so.
 
I don’t see why you need a fire performance cable for this application so don’t really see a reason to use FP200.
Have you considered BS8346 cable such as flexshield? It is designed to be a general wiring cable for surface or flush installations and would be more cos effective than micc these days
 
as long as you dont squash the tube when youre bending it you can get a decent curve on it for 90* bends, play about with a few bits to get used to forming it, pretty much the same as doing conduit without the spring
 
NYY-J all the way mate, easy to strip and terminate, tough as old bulls ears, available in up to 5 cores and 6mm (may be more but havnt used before)
Its solid core so sets nicely and is to an IEC standard so perfectly allowable to be used, black 12mm and 14mm clips spaced 40cm apart and your laughing

NOTE:HO7RNF is actually a flexible cable so you should imo avoid that for fixed wiring. (Unless you really fancy bootlacing EVERY end?)
 
NYY-J all the way mate, easy to strip and terminate, tough as old bulls ears, available in up to 5 cores and 6mm (may be more but havnt used before)
Its solid core so sets nicely and is to an IEC standard so perfectly allowable to be used, black 12mm and 14mm clips spaced 40cm apart and your laughing

NOTE:HO7RNF is actually a flexible cable so you should imo avoid that for fixed wiring. (Unless you really fancy bootlacing EVERY end?)
40cm? easier to just clip to the length of the hammer as you go, 40cm needs marking out etc
 
Not really, a forum is a open debate which anyone can join in. The way the NICEIC brigade go on, its the be all and end all of topic as they have said so.
They'll find a reg it doesn't comply with so they can have a full day revisit £££££.
 
Why avoid flex for fixed wiring?
No real need AFAICT, provided it's "heavy duty" 521.9.1 (which leaves I think according to this definition only H07RN-F) but it needs lots of clips. Saying that, in a totally wonky timber barn space where the customer will be frowning at visible bits of cable, being able to bend it easily without kinking sideways or having to keep it flat while threading it about. (T&E), I see advantages in flex. I agree ideally should be bootlaced which is a bit of a pain.
 
Okay, I have admitted elsewhere on this forum that I am an idiot, but I am an old thick skinned idiot who can take a bit of stick so here goes...

What on earth is boot-lacing?

Is it just doubling up the end of a cable at the connection point? If so then this generally needs to be done with T+E if there is only one cable in a switch or socket.
Go on....shame me. I do not know the meaning of boot-lacing.

While I am here....clipping a flexible cable around beams and trying to hide cables is going to be HUGELY easier than using FP.

All the best,
Sym
 
Is boot-lacing twisting the strands of the flexible cables together?
Which is what I would do when connecting multiple flexes.
Note...I would never twist T+E cables together.

Twisting flexible cables together is not that much of a pain in the bum.

Using FP200 can definitely be a pain in the bum.

Sym
 

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