help to wire combi boiler for underfloor heating and house radiators

[aldo95]

Hi there. Major cyber pint for anyone that can help me with this problem.

I have a vokera vision c combi boiler( which has volt free connections) that has to do the house radiators and one room for underfloor heating. There is one motorised two port valve for Radiators and one for the underfloor heating. I have a salus two channel programmer to control the house radiators / underfloor heating separately. There's a pump for the underfloor heating and I've also got two bog standard dial room stats(one to control house radiators and one to control the underfloor heating.

If anyone could help and give me the idiots guide to wiring all this up as my head is a bit fried with this
I'm just getting a bit confused with volt free connections at boiler/ then using 230v as well to switch things.

Any help at all would be great, as im under a bit of pressure to get this going.

Thanks

 

[dansk]

I always use a 15a strip connector and gwiss adaptable box. Bring 3a switched fused supply into box, feed boiler with 5 core and use 2 cores to fetch 24v from volt free terminals into box.

From supply in the box into timer, timer to thermostat, thermostat to brown on zone valves.

Volt from boiler to grey and orange on valve end switch.

To expand on this now im at a desktop pc and not on my iphone -

Take a supply to the time clock, then channel 1 from time clock to thermostat 1 then from thermostat 1 to brown on zone valve 1 and repeat for channel 2 etc.

Common the Neutrals and Earths in the box.

 

[aldo95]

I always use a 15a strip connector and gwiss adaptable box. Bring 3a switched fused supply into box, feed boiler with 5 core and use 2 cores to fetch 24v from volt free terminals into box.

From supply in the box into timer, timer to thermostat, thermostat to brown on zone valves.

Volt from boiler to grey and orange on valve end switch.

To expand on this now im at a desktop pc and not on my iphone -

Take a supply to the time clock, then channel 1 from time clock to thermostat 1 then from thermostat 1 to brown on zone valve 1 and repeat for channel 2 etc.

Common the Neutrals and Earths in the box.

Thanks for reply dansk!

Can I use 230v wall stats or do I need to use volt free ones?

Cheers again

 

[dansk]

Everything is 230v except the "boiler enable signal" which is the 24vDC from the boiler aka Volt Free.

Not sure how to explain this - but the all you doing is using 230v volt throughout and the volt free is been switched back to the boiler by the micro end switch in the zone valves. The Grey and Orange are separate to the Brown and Blue in zone valves.

 

[davesparks]

Thanks for reply dansk!

Can I use 230v wall stats or do I need to use volt free ones?

Cheers again

Seriously? It's quite scary that an electrician needs to ask this!

 

[Leesparkykent]

Two programmable thermostats would be better as surly one of the channels on the salus programmer will be marked HW?

 

[PEG]

Hi there. Major cyber pint for anyone that can help me with this problem.

I have a vokera vision c combi boiler( which has volt free connections) that has to do the house radiators and one room for underfloor heating. There is one motorised two port valve for Radiators and one for the underfloor heating. I have a salus two channel programmer to control the house radiators / underfloor heating separately. There's a pump for the underfloor heating and I've also got two bog standard dial room stats(one to control house radiators and one to control the underfloor heating.

If anyone could help and give me the idiots guide to wiring all this up as my head is a bit fried with this
I'm just getting a bit confused with volt free connections at boiler/ then using 230v as well to switch things.

Any help at all would be great, as im under a bit of pressure to get this going.

Thanks

Just for the craic,how is the U/F heating pump arranged in relation to the combi pumped CH circuit? :28:

 

[Lagentium]

Is the underfloor running from a separate manifold to mix the running temp down? As the two will run at completely different temperatures.

 

[aldo95]

The ufh pump is about 1 meter away from the boiler and has its own manifold

 

[Lagentium]

Right, we are a step nearer the conclusion! Does the manifold come with a connection unit? The actuators for the underfloor loops are usually low voltage so are usually connected via a controller which usually has a row of terminals for room stats, a row for corresponding actuators and two sets of terminals, one to supply a pump when the underfloor is calling and one that is volt free and closes when the underfloor is calling to give a supply to a zone valve on the Brown and Blue cores and then fire the boiler via the Grey and Orange on the zone valves internal switch. The controller usually has it's own 230V supply.

 

[aldo95]

Right, we are a step nearer the conclusion! Does the manifold come with a connection unit? The actuators for the underfloor loops are usually low voltage so are usually connected via a controller which usually has a row of terminals for room stats, a row for corresponding actuators and two sets of terminals, one to supply a pump when the underfloor is calling and one that is volt free and closes when the underfloor is calling to give a supply to a zone valve on the Brown and Blue cores and then fire the boiler via the Grey and Orange on the zone valves internal switch. The controller usually has it's own 230V supply.

Yes mate. The ufh kit came with 1x actuator and wiring centre with all the terminals that you've mentioned. I've since spoken to the manufacturer ( John guest) and they said I wouldn't need to use an actuator as I'm only using one heating loop from the manifold. They also said I could wire it all up just using a joint box instead of the wiring control centre that was provided.

 

[Lagentium]

I'd use the wiring centre regardless TBH, with it giving you the terminals to do the necessary things needed without messing about. I'm presuming that the actuator is 230V then with them saying you can just use a JB? I've never dealt with mains voltage actuators although I guess they all work the same!

 

[davesparks]

Wiring centre is just a posh way of saying joint box

 

[aldo95]

The guy from John guest seemed to be quite clear that I didn't need to use the actuator at all. He basically said if I had more than one heating loop on the manifold, the actuators would be required. I've actually got pics of the job on my phone. If I knew how to upload them onto hear that would maybe help more

 

[davesparks]

No the thermal actuators won't be needed if it is just one zone.
The 2 port valve will control the flow of water

 

[Leesparkykent]

You won't need the actuator if you have one loop/zone.

 

[Leesparkykent]

If you want to insert a pic follow this

 

[Lagentium]

Please do as this will be a school day for me too!!

 

[aldo95]

 

[Leesparkykent]

how comes you don't want use the wiring centre, actuator, etc that's already in place?

 

[Lagentium]

I'm a bit muddled after seeing the common thermostat connections, is it all connected in a temporary configuration because it doesn't look right to me. Apologies in advance if I'm wrong!! I've also noticed it says wireless on the control centre, any reason for it?

 

[Leesparkykent]

looks like the line and neutral connections are the wrong way round for the thermostat in the pic.

 

[Lagentium]

I've never been able to force myself to call it a line conductor!

 

[aldo95]

I meant to say that this wiring centre requires that the room stats send back a wireless signal back to it. The reason that I'm going back to using a joint box method is that The kit didn't come with wireless stats so I was just going to use altech 230v dial ones. All connections at wiring centre are temporary at the moment

 

[Leesparkykent]

I meant to say that this wiring centre requires that the room stats send back a wireless signal back to it. The reason that I'm going back to using a joint box method is that The kit didn't come with wireless stats so I was just going to use altech 230v dial ones. All connections at wiring centre are temporary at the moment

easy enough to do.

 

[davesparks]

Sack the plumber and get one who can solder and sack whoever has wired it like that