FCU or Plugtop

[Guitarist]

Replacing an outside socket with a wiska box and swa to supply a nearby shed. Socket and a light is all that's needed inside. Installing metalclad double socket for swa to connect to.
Trying to decide between an FCU inside feeding the socket along with an SFCU spurred off this as the lightswitch, or swa straight into the socket and plug the light in.

 

[pencilpusher]

Replacing an outside socket with a wiska box and swa to supply a nearby shed. Socket and a light is all that's needed inside. Installing metalclad double socket for swa to connect to.
Trying to decide between an FCU inside feeding the socket along with an SFCU spurred off this as the lightswitch, or swa straight into the socket and plug the light in.

Just done similar myself this week. Ran SWA to double socket under pergola within BBQ area. SWA spur from DS to SFCU (3 amp) and this used as light switch. Out of switch via stuffing gland with flex to light fittings. No problem.

 

[Guitarist]

Just done similar myself this week. Ran SWA to double socket under pergola within BBQ area. SWA spur from DS to SFCU (3 amp) and this used as light switch. Out of switch via stuffing gland with flex to light fittings. No problem.

The swa in this case will be effectively a spur off the RFC, so I can only take it to 1 socket without fusing it down first. Just trying to decide how simple to keep it

 

[pencilpusher]

The swa in this case will be effectively a spur off the RFC, so I can only take it to 1 socket without fusing it down first. Just trying to decide how simple to keep it

The one I did came off an RFC too. I placed FCU 13 amp next to socket and ran T&E to adaptable box on outside wall. Ran SWA from there to outside DS and so on. I suppose it depends on how much grief that causes you with the set up you have there.

 

[Guitarist]

Unfortunately, the outside socket in this case is a spur already and so my only option is to take it into an FCU inside the shed before doing what you did.

 

[Guitarist]

Apologies mods. I think I posted this in the wrong section :leaving:

 

[pencilpusher]

Unfortunately, the outside socket in this case is a spur already and so my only option is to take it into an FCU inside the shed before doing what you did.

:yes:
Sorted!

 

[Octopus]

Shouldn't you be changing the outside socket for a IP rated FCU then you can do what you want there after. Having a double socket which is already a spur feeding a shed could be asking for trouble IMHO.

 

[telectrix]

agree with murdoch. or fit FCU in IP rated ad. box, then SWA to shed. D/S then 3A FCU for light.

 

[Guitarist]

I'm not putting it across very well.
The existing outside socket is a spur off the RFC, so ok in its own right. I am taking this out and using an IP connection box which the swa will connect to. This will then enter the shed and be a double socket (in other words, replacing what was the outside socket).
I can then either simply plug the light into the socket (with a 3 amp fuse in the plugtop) or where the cable enters the shed, connect to an FCU. From there I could feed the socket and an SFCU for the light.

Either way, there will only be one spur off the ring.

 

[telectrix]

can't see a problem with either method. you will have 1 S/0 spurred off RFC, then the light can be on a plug or FCU. i prefer the FCU as that will leave you with a useable twin socket. you only need 1 FCU, for the light.

 

[Guitarist]

can't see a problem with either method. you will have 1 S/0 spurred off RFC, then the light can be on a plug or FCU. i prefer the FCU as that will leave you with a useable twin socket. you only need 1 FCU, for the light.

That was my first thought tel. However, that will technically be a spur off a spur, so I'm not really happy with that (though only a very small additional load admittedly).
Think I will go with plugging the fluorescent light in for now, and if the customer is not happy with that, I will FCU it as it enters the shed, then split to socket and SFCU for light.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[oldtimer]

remember if you are using aSFCU then get a double pole one because you are only as strong as your weakest link ie the socket and cable are open to the element so if you get water in then the RCD will trip and you could loose half your board but if you cannot put it on its own RCBO (my preference) then DP the SFCU so any problems switch it off and you can reset the RCD

 

[Guitarist]

I always use DP oldtimer, as I'm sure you do
It's impossible in this instance to get it on its own circuit. That said, I am installing a full RCBO board along with a good quality CW gland into the wiska box. The other end will be glanded inside the shed.
After working for many years in food factories, I am no stranger to how to keep water out.

 

[claret73]

Guitarist,
Never heard that before - Wiska Box. I've not had much commercial exp. So now I know by the power of Google, I assume the flylead off the armour is connected in with the earth connection from the RFC & the SWA 3rd Core? Sorry for Hi-Jacking, just reading & learning from the odd post.

 

[Guitarist]

Guitarist,
Never heard that before - Wiska Box. I've not had much commercial exp. So now I know by the power of Google, I assume the flylead off the armour is connected in with the earth connection from the RFC & the SWA 3rd Core? Sorry for Hi-Jacking, just reading & learning from the odd post.

Yes mate. I use Wiska Earth Clamp Bar for SWA Glands for the armour.

 

[Octopus]

Yes mate. I use Wiska Earth Clamp Bar for SWA Glands for the armour.

Me too, once tried you'll keep stock of these in your wheels!