Induction hob & pyrolitic oven

[electric-tec]

Hi Guys

Looking for a bit of info here. Been called to look at a job for a local kitchen company as there spark has done a dissapearing act.

heres what we have hes broke into the ring and added a 20A D.P switch fused spur for the slim dishwasher no issues

This is where the debate starts Oven Hob And Hood are wired on a hager 32A mcb 6mm t&e he has the

SAMSUNG INDUCTION HOB TOTAL OPERATING LOADED 7.6Kw wired to dual cooker oulet plate on 6mm he has then took a 2.5mm t&e fly lead from dual outlet to a single socket located in the unit next to oven this feeds the SAMSUNG SPLIT LEVEL PYROLITIC OVEN B2Q27G078 3.6Kw total operating load
this is wired in 2.5mm HO5-VV FLEX with 31A plug (samsungs specified choice) he has then ran a 2.5mm t&e up cavity to a single socket feeding a telescopic cooker hood.

im thinking in one hand too much load but on other customers never going to have everthing on full at one time and if you apply diveristy here we have
7.6 + 3.6 = 11.2Kw / 230 = 48.69A first 10A then 30% of remaining load = 10A + 30% of remaining 38.69A = 11.6A + 10A = 21.6A

and the onsite guide /regs cooker up to 15Kw on 32A mcb 6mm.

My point is as the hob has boosters on all rings this is going be dropping in and out to maintain temperature also the cleaning cycle on the pyrolitic oven is 300 degrees for up to 2 hours self cleaning not ideal on a plug but its what samsung have stated.

BOOST INFO FOR HOB

CooKINg zoNES
position Diameter power
Rear left 160 mm 1400 W / Boost 2000 W
Front left 210 mm 2200 W / Boost 3200 W
Front Bridge - 1800W / Boost 2600W
Rear Bridge - 1800W / Boost 2600W
Complete Bridge - 3600W / Boost 4600W

I was going to run a dedicated 16A circuit with 13a fused connection for the oven wired in ho5 2.5mm flex

leave the 7.6Kw hob on the 32A cooker circuit with the 6mm t&e and a 2.5mm t&e from dual outlet plate to a single socket for the cooker hood

usual garbage from the kitchen company is its been working for over a week with no issues and how much will you charge for running new circuit etc

would be happy to hear some positive feedback for yous guys as 90% of kitchens i do are single ovens and gas hobs

thanks and hope to get this put to bed on monday


SAMSUNGS GUIDANCE FOR THE OVEN

Electrical connections must be made as per the connection plate fixed to the back of the
appliance by an electrical fitter who must ensure that the appliance has been connected up in
accordance with fitting instructions and local regulations.
Where the appliance is not connected to the mains electricity supply by a plug, an omni polar
cutout device (with a contacts gap of at least 3 mm) must be fitted on the supply side of the
connection to meet safety requirements
) When power is connected, the electronics of the oven are initialised; this neutralizes
the lighting for a few seconds The electric cable (H05 RR-F or H05 VV-F, Min 1 5m,
1 5~2 5mm²) must be long enough for it to be connected to the built-in oven standing
on the floor in front of its unit.
Open the back cover of the oven at the bottom (using a flat-bladed screwdriver)
and completely unscrew the connection screw and the cable clamp before fitting
conducting wires into the appropriate terminals
The earth wire must be connected to the ( ) terminal of the oven
If the oven is connected to the power supply by a plug, this must remain accessible once the
oven has been fitted.

 

[Richard Burns]

You have assessed the load considering diversity and it is OK.
You have consulted the on site guide and it is OK.
The manufacturers instructions say it is OK.

However you want to run a new circuit and connect the oven differently than the default in the manufacturers instructions, could I ask why?

In practice having the two single 2.5mm² twin and earth cables running from the 32A protected supply is not ideal but the cables are load limited by the plug fuses so this is also OK.

 

[electric-tec]

You have assessed the load considering diversity and it is OK.
You have consulted the on site guide and it is OK.
The manufacturers instructions say it is OK.

However you want to run a new circuit and connect the oven differently than the default in the manufacturers instructions, could I ask why?

In practice having the two single 2.5mm² twin and earth cables running from the 32A protected supply is not ideal but the cables are load limited by the plug fuses so this is also OK.

Thanks for the reply only reason i was thinking of seperate circuit was due to the pyrolitic oven running at 300 degrees for 2 hours.

I will stick with whats there and instead of a plug on the oven put a fused 13a spur on it incase of overheating the plug top
In reality i dont see the customer using the hob whilst cleaning her oven
Thanks

 

[Richard Burns]

The oven is rated at 3.6kW which would therefore take about 15A, a 13A fuse will not blow in this case, even though it is 300 deg C it will still cycle on and off over the two hours.