hmm. BG are far better build quality than MK. the only gripe i've had with them is the loctite on the threads of the earth and N bar screws.
 
Well I can't comment on that as I've never fitted one, but aren't they the ones with a built in spirit level? lol
 
I definitely agree with you on the lighting circuit. It was nothing more than lazy on my part suggesting otherwise! I personally install a serperate circuit (not necessarily a ring) for the kitchen appliances because in my limited experience i have found them to be the main RCD nuisance tripping issue. So an unprotected way with an rcbo in is the way to go for me.

I also appreciate what you are saying about the parallel paths/ring main only feeding 1 point (is it one point? or is it 5 because of the feeds coming off? or is it 10 because of the flex outlets? another argument that we could go round in circles on!).

As previously mentioned the client has ALOT of kitchen gadgets, and has specified she wants a minimum of 8 sockets (4 2gs) across one side of the kitchen, the other side has the immersion, fridge, freezer, washer, dryer, dish washer). The price for a 20a and a 32a breaker is the same, the only issue is the additional 6/7m run of 2.5 to the grid that would be the extra cost.

As for carrying out the testing i would of course test it as a ring? How else would you test 2 x 2.5 cables being supplied from the same OCPD that were interconnected? Do you appreciate what i am saying about the grid switch having effectively 5 x SFCU in it?
/QUOTE]

Firstly immersion heater, on a new install/rewire it goes on its own circuit everytime, no question. The rest of them you'll just have to use your own judgement. I doubt very much the combined current of the sockets and appliances in the kitchen at any one time will exceed 32amps.

I know i'm not the best at transferring the thoughts in my head into written words but I think it would help you to see what I am trying to say if you consider an upscaled version of this.
You have a circuit coming from your CU as 2 x 2.5 cables terminating at a single enclosure containing 5 protective devices, you say this is a ring and will operate as a ring and be tested as a ring.
Compare this to a circuit coming from a DB as 2 x 25mm cables terminating at a single enclosure containing 5 protective devices (another DB). Is this a ring?

I know 4.0mm would be ridiculous in one of those switches so wouldn't contemplate that but if I felt it needed more than a 20amp circuit i'd be looking at 2 x 2.5 radials personally, either 16 or 20 amps.

And I always fit RCBO's for every circuit that needs RCD protection, in my opinion having 2 RCD's doesn't give adequate protection against the problems of nuisance tripping. And yes I have lost a couple of CU changes because of this stance, but i've also won a couple based on this after explaining the pro's and cons of each way in as unbiased a fashion as I can.


I am hoping someone else will give their stance on this soon
 
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I definitely agree with you on the lighting circuit. It was nothing more than lazy on my part suggesting otherwise! I personally install a serperate circuit (not necessarily a ring) for the kitchen appliances because in my limited experience i have found them to be the main RCD nuisance tripping issue. So an unprotected way with an rcbo in is the way to go for me.

I also appreciate what you are saying about the parallel paths/ring main only feeding 1 point (is it one point? or is it 5 because of the feeds coming off? or is it 10 because of the flex outlets? another argument that we could go round in circles on!).

As previously mentioned the client has ALOT of kitchen gadgets, and has specified she wants a minimum of 8 sockets (4 2gs) across one side of the kitchen, the other side has the immersion, fridge, freezer, washer, dryer, dish washer). The price for a 20a and a 32a breaker is the same, the only issue is the additional 6/7m run of 2.5 to the grid that would be the extra cost.

As for carrying out the testing i would of course test it as a ring? How else would you test 2 x 2.5 cables being supplied from the same OCPD that were interconnected? Do you appreciate what i am saying about the grid switch having effectively 5 x SFCU in it?

@VoltzElectrical

By all means if you/everyone who rates them wants to fit them likes them then crack on. But in my (already admitted) limited experience i have found them to be lacking in the quality department. I have come across 3 BG boards all of which felt very flimsy......when i tightened the screws on them they didn't even crush the extra length i had left on the cables into shape....! Lol,. joking aside though i did think they were pretty crappy quality. My comment about them being the most terrible piece of crap ever may have been abit harsh. I was too busy isolating the circuits that had just electrocuted the client to make a serious professional judgement. I did kind of sum up the whole job then look at the brand on the CU and think well thats just fantastic, High Price, Bad Workmanship, Electrocuted Client, and a BG board! Either way, i certainly didn't mean to offend you Voltz. But i still won't be buying one anytime soon.

If a customer is willing to pay for a recognised brand then that is what i will install. I have an issue with customers who will pay 10/15 quid a designer socket, 70/100 quid a designer lamp then want to install a brand of CU that i personally don't rate.

Not offended, but you are blaming a very good product which in my experience doesn't warrant it. They are competitively priced and do the job. If installed with the proper tools (i.e. not impact drivers or pozi drivers, like ANY board) either a plus/minus driver or flat head, then there shouldn't be a problem.

Spirit level? I wouldn't trust it even if it is a nice gesture. Immaterial IMO.

Tel, I can't recall the loctite that you mention.
 
the terminal screws are backed off and to stop 'em falling out, they're tight, i assume with some sort of thread sealer. sometimes it's a bugger to get them going. i'e stripped the head on a couple.
 
the terminal screws are backed off and to stop 'em falling out, they're tight, i assume with some sort of thread sealer. sometimes it's a bugger to get them going. i'e stripped the head on a couple.

Yeah come to think of they were tight to get going. Didn't think of it as loktite though.
 
And as to the original topic of all this, stick a bit extra on so when they ask you if you can do anything with the price cos its a bit much you can knock a bit off and let them feel good cos they think they've got one up on your thieving ways.

You have to remember all these clients don't go to work and earn a fair wage just so that they can employ us to do a job for a fair wage. They work hard for their money and shouldn't have to give it all away to someone who's really just doing a bit of diy for them.
 
I definitely agree with you on the lighting circuit. It was nothing more than lazy on my part suggesting otherwise! I personally install a serperate circuit (not necessarily a ring) for the kitchen appliances because in my limited experience i have found them to be the main RCD nuisance tripping issue. So an unprotected way with an rcbo in is the way to go for me.

I also appreciate what you are saying about the parallel paths/ring main only feeding 1 point (is it one point? or is it 5 because of the feeds coming off? or is it 10 because of the flex outlets? another argument that we could go round in circles on!).

As previously mentioned the client has ALOT of kitchen gadgets, and has specified she wants a minimum of 8 sockets (4 2gs) across one side of the kitchen, the other side has the immersion, fridge, freezer, washer, dryer, dish washer). The price for a 20a and a 32a breaker is the same, the only issue is the additional 6/7m run of 2.5 to the grid that would be the extra cost.

As for carrying out the testing i would of course test it as a ring? How else would you test 2 x 2.5 cables being supplied from the same OCPD that were interconnected? Do you appreciate what i am saying about the grid switch having effectively 5 x SFCU in it?
/QUOTE]

Firstly immersion heater, on a new install/rewire it goes on its own circuit everytime, no question. The rest of them you'll just have to use your own judgement. I doubt very much the combined current of the sockets and appliances in the kitchen at any one time will exceed 32amps.

I know i'm not the best at transferring the thoughts in my head into written words but I think it would help you to see what I am trying to say if you consider an upscaled version of this.
You have a circuit coming from your CU as 2 x 2.5 cables terminating at a single enclosure containing 5 protective devices, you say this is a ring and will operate as a ring and be tested as a ring.
Compare this to a circuit coming from a DB as 2 x 25mm cables terminating at a single enclosure containing 5 protective devices (another DB). Is this a ring?

I know 4.0mm would be ridiculous in one of those switches so wouldn't contemplate that but if I felt it needed more than a 20amp circuit i'd be looking at 2 x 2.5 radials personally, either 16 or 20 amps.

And I always fit RCBO's for every circuit that needs RCD protection, in my opinion having 2 RCD's doesn't give adequate protection against the problems of nuisance tripping. And yes I have lost a couple of CU changes because of this stance, but i've also won a couple based on this after explaining the pro's and cons of each way in as unbiased a fashion as I can.


I am hoping someone else will give their stance on this soon

I had allowed a separate circuit for the immersion, in a petty cider fuelled way i was trying to make it look worse than it was because i couldn't conjure up any more kitchen appliances!

Your example of the parallel paths feeding a DB was a good one and i do definitely see what your saying! The only difference i can see is that you in the DB example you are terminating both ends of the cable in the same terminals at either end, whereas with the grid switch i would have been terminating a 2.5 feed into either end of the 5 Fused Switches, therefore putting a load between each feed.

I had considered the 2 x 20a radial for the exact reason you are talking about. However i had been reluctant to feed two circuits into one grid switch, again i appreciate that this is no different than most stairwell/landing light arrangements however it just felt a bit queer!

In an ideal world i would use RCBOs, the only time i have seen this done though is in small commercial premises (i just did some work at a restaurant that had this set up). Hopefully a dual RCD board should be more than fine for protection because nuisance tripping won't be occurring on any of my jobs :)

Voltz, i don't believe i blamed the board for anything! The one i touched felt crap, end of! May of been a faulty effort, may of been a fake! There seems to enough fake electrical components knocking around these days for it to happen. However i will be buying one next time a friend wants a cheap job doing and giving it a go because as you said, you can't all be wrong and i have read enough of your replies to know you are more than clued up!
 
Your example of the parallel paths feeding a DB was a good one and i do definitely see what your saying! The only difference i can see is that you in the DB example you are terminating both ends of the cable in the same terminals at either end, whereas with the grid switch i would have been terminating a 2.5 feed into either end of the 5 Fused Switches, therefore putting a load between each feed.

Glad i'm making some sense. I don't see how your 5 grid switches are going to alter the way the circuit behaves electrically, 2 inches of copper wire between each switch ain't going to make it behave any differently.

Something just occurred to me on this subject, how about a 4mm radial terminated at a suitable connector in the back of the enclosure and a 2.5 to each switch?

I believe you have neglected the stupidity of the general public in your comments about nuisance tripping ;)
 
Suitable connector? I've never seen 'twist and tape' spelt that way before?!

No you are right Dave. Does an issue not arise from having 2.5mm coming off a 4mm protected by a 32a? Although it's no different to a spur on a ring i suppose! I think i will do a 4mm radial.

That is if she accepts the bleedin' price, which she best do because i've spent practically two days on the quote now haha!
 
That is a very good question, can you reduce the csa without fuse protection?
It's contained within the enclosure, runs about 6 inches to a 13amp fuse. What are the chances of it suffering an overload in that distance?

There is a regulation that allows the reduction in csa before the protection if it is suitably protected against damage etc. its been talked about a lot on here so a search should provide plenty of material.

My bet would be on them questioning the price and wanting you to see if you can shave a bit off here and there.
 
So you happy now max , what's your final price and hope you get it..
 
Well she didn't want me to quote for fixings, so i have said £2650 first fix but with CU, breakers, smokes tails bonding etc OR £2950 with basic white plastic fittings + all chases being made good by my plasterer. I updated the quote to allow for 2 men 6 days then 1 man on a final day.

I will take some pictures if i do end up going back just so you can all see what it is like. Not that you haven't seen a house before but maybe just out of interest after all the help that has been offered up!

Fingers crossed, i think the client wanted to go with me because i came across genuine and told her the best thing to do was to get quotes off other people etc etc so we will see. I will keep the thread updated though. All the help has as always is/has been very much appreciated :)
 
You have to remember all these clients don't go to work and earn a fair wage just so that they can employ us to do a job for a fair wage. They work hard for their money and shouldn't have to give it all away to someone who's really just doing a bit of diy for them.

Don't quite understand what you are saying here.
 
I am attempting to take the p!ss out of those clients who feel that we are ripping them off when we ask them to pay a fair price for something, and the prevalent opinion amongst said clients that electrical installation work is something anyone can do after a trip to homebodge or B+Q
 
I am attempting to take the p!ss out of those clients who feel that we are ripping them off when we ask them to pay a fair price for something, and the prevalent opinion amongst said clients that electrical installation work is something anyone can do after a trip to homebodge or B+Q

That's fair enough. I think it was a little subtle though, and I'm sure that many DIY householders would be agreeing fervently with your statement.
What you have to understand Dave, is that after a few thousand posts on here, you'll get to see many many people say the very same thing, but they're deadly serious. Give it a bit of time, and you'll start to twitch like the rest of us. :crazy:
 
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I have met such a person face to face, that's where I got the its just diy line from. Its safe to say I made a bit of a scene!
 
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In the '80's CEF's Proteus range was pretty awful but lots of people used them....but not me. I stick with Crabtree or Mk for house bashing..
i fitted an MK board just the other day and i can tell you now it was one of the worst useless bits of old crap ever...
when i wanted to nip up the earth & neutral bar screws it felt like the whole bar was going to rip out of the board...
the enclosure was flimsy (just like the wylex`s)...not nice..
its only redeeming feature was the decal card....very comprehensive...
 
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When i think back to the day's of Council Rewires, 2 Electricians, or an Electrician and a Mate used to knock occupied 3 bed houses out in a day!! Granted everything was surface, with lighting switch drops and kitchen sockets CCU all surface wired in 3/4'' conduit. All basic stuff central room lighting points, 2 X double sockets in bedrooms 3 X doubles in the lounge, and 3 X doubles in the kitchen as well as a CCU with integrated outlet...
And No, these installations weren't just thrown in, they were by today's standards installed well. The guys involved in these rewires had a working system, and most of the time, that system finished these house rewires off in a day!!

So, started and finished in a single day, sort of makes a bit of a mockery of today's estimates, that seem to all call for 7 days or more...
 
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Just priced my first rewire, why is it so cheap?
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Tidy Max,
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