Discuss Samsung lcd tv in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

M

monkeyelectric

Evening all, would any of you kind people know what the cause would be for my samsung 40 " tv to have sound but no picture? There's nothing there, the screen is just black. It was working quite happily yesterday but i've just got in and switched it on and this has happened.
 
press tv/dtv to put it onto analogue, then press the power button to power it off, then press tv/dtv again to power it back on, then that should come up with a fuzzy screen on analogue, leave for a few seconds then press tv/dtv again to put back to digital and the picture will come back, been there got the Tshirt with the samsung M8.
 
press tv/dtv to put it onto analogue, then press the power button to power it off, then press tv/dtv again to power it back on, then that should come up with a fuzzy screen on analogue, leave for a few seconds then press tv/dtv again to put back to digital and the picture will come back, been there got the Tshirt with the samsung M8.
Ah, i'd better put it back together and try that first then :D
I don't seem to have a dtv/tv button on the remote, its probably about 5 year old now, how old is yours Mike?
Right! Found the dtv/tv button i was being blind as usual! Unfortunately it still doesn't work :(
 
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Beautiful Tvs but riddled with issues. My lodgers TV randomly turns it self on for some wierd reason, i googled it and it appears to be a common problem.
 
Ah, i'd better put it back together and try that first then :D
I don't seem to have a dtv/tv button on the remote, its probably about 5 year old now, how old is yours Mike?
Right! Found the dtv/tv button i was being blind as usual! Unfortunately it still doesn't work :(

3 to 4 years M8, what have you got on the remote, Samsungs are difficult to control and have had major complaints by thousands of owners, I have nearly kicked mine up and down the road before working out how to reset the picture.

you may have to practice with the dtv/tv button a few times to get it working M8, sometime it takes me 2 -3 attempts to get the picture back.
 
I don't even know where to begin in the back of that thing, bloody capacitors everywhere! Its only electronics though so how hard can it be? :D

Too hard for me, my probe tips are about 5x bigger than the components.
Zapped myself on the input caps on an Apple power supply earlier that I've been given to fix!
Discharge the buggers next time.
 
Too hard for me, my probe tips are about 5x bigger than the components.
Zapped myself on the input caps on an Apple power supply earlier that I've been given to fix!
Discharge the buggers next time.
I know what your saying, everything is tiny in there, I wouldn't even know where to start looking!
 
Very good point bud, I have experienced the same problem too, and it was a scart not pushed in properly, but I would expect the OP writer to have checked that??? surely haha
Assume nothing where i'm concerned :D i once broke down on the motorway so i rang my old man to come out with a tow rope and loads of tools when all i needed was a gallon of diesel :D i'm not the most observant of people but this time yes the scart and other leads are fine, i think the problem lies deeper :(
 
Sounds like a power supply fault, and would agree caps are the usual caurse....suggest from the power input follow circuit back any see if any of the caps have there tops distorted or basically swollon,
 
only ever bought one samsung TV... had it a week before returning it !

kept turning itself on during the night scaring the living daylights out of you, plus the volume was crap !

only ever bought LG since then, never had an issue with LG stuff either. always been good !
 
I've got two samsungs and both have been fantastic.no issues whatsoever. bought a toshiba for the first time today. ok so far...
 
Ok seems to be a common fault, no back light and picture but sometimes sound. which is supposed to be invertor psu, Now i`m no expert on tvs, but have used this company before to buy repair kits for sky etc, with no problems, but your gonna have to be good at soldering, because these are small components. Repair Kit126 £22 form Ohms click on link
OHM SUPPLIES ltd, LCD & PLASMA REPAIR KITS AND SPARES
 
Ok seems to be a common fault, no back light and picture but sometimes sound. which is supposed to be invertor psu, Now i`m no expert on tvs, but have used this company before to buy repair kits for sky etc, with no problems, but your gonna have to be good at soldering, because these are small components. Repair Kit126 £22 form Ohms click on link
OHM SUPPLIES ltd, LCD & PLASMA REPAIR KITS AND SPARES


Surface mount components :stuart:
 
Ok seems to be a common fault, no back light and picture but sometimes sound. which is supposed to be invertor psu, Now i`m no expert on tvs, but have used this company before to buy repair kits for sky etc, with no problems, but your gonna have to be good at soldering, because these are small components. Repair Kit126 £22 form Ohms click on link
OHM SUPPLIES ltd, LCD & PLASMA REPAIR KITS AND SPARES
Great link there mate cheers, i'm not bad at soldering so i'll give it a go as i don't want to throw the bugger away just yet
 
No Problem, what these kits have is all possible components which could go wrong, in that section of the board. Good luck and keep us all informed how you get on.
 
images
 
Don't be too scared by surface mount components. As long as you're steady with them you'll be fine. Unless you need to start changing ICs - that's more fun. Especially BGAs! Never liked doing them, and you certainly can't do them with a soldering iron :) Daz
 
Maybe a little anorak, but here goes...Probably the backlight not coming on, the inverter gets fed with 24v dc from the power supply, it generates a stupidly high ac voltage for the cfl back lights, the back lights are switched on via a 5v coming from the main processor. So going onto the inverter you should have 24v (or 12v) dc and the "on" 5v from the processor. Usually the board will have printing near the plug that tells you the voltage.. You can put 5v on the pin to fire the screen up (you'll probably see a dark stripe across it as one of the back lights is probably gone) that's if you have the supply voltage coming from the psu...(at your own risk! I have done this) Look for capacitors bulging on top, that's quite a common one. The inverter in LCD TV knows how much current is being drawn by the back lights, it then knows if there's a cfl out.. You can hang a scope near the inverter output and pick up the kv ac waveform. Its at about 30khz If you see it come up then go (or the 5v come up and go) then your backlight is faulty only way to fix this is new/replacement screen (eBay)
Or probably time for a new tv!
If its led backlit, then who knows..???
Some of the newer samsungs have one board for the psu and inverter, you'd need a circuit diagram, if you could find one!
(older ones had psu, signals and inverter boards.)
you could search eBay for the inverter board (part number is on the board bn.....) and give it a go, it might be the inverter faulty.
imo. Screen

hope this helps.
 
Right, the back is off again and i have no bulging capacitors, i've got no means of testing them Either as my multimeter does not have the setting for them. Smiffy, not 100% on where i should be looking for the voltages you describe? I'm interested in finding out where the fault lies and how to test different components in it so i don't really want to just take it to a tv repair shop and £100 later its working, i'm very inquisitive
 
4 radial elecro ones? what values and V's and I will have a rummage around in the boxes next time I'm in the spark lab......

I prefer to use self fluxing silver solder when re-doing electrolytic caps, then I put a dod of hot melt glue on the side to fix them as well....silver solder gives a good contact with the surface on the track pad once you have the old solder off with de-soldering braid....no need for laquer spray or anything

Another thing I do is to use the (red) hot run caps (rubycon or similar) which have a good tolerance to the heat build up of the inside of a power pack....they are made for hot running, power packs are hot running in a lot of instances...standard capacitors dry out a lot more quickly...

if you ever have dried caps in a power supply and need temporary use in an emergency until your spares arrive(or your new power pack, if not keen on repairing) for example to use your laptop then an old trick is to tie the power pack (minus the mains lead if it detaches preferably) into a carrier bag, put it into the freezer for 45 minutes, take it out and it will work, after switching off, it will not work again unless you stick it back in the freezer, but as long as it is powered on it will function.....this is just a last resort fix and obviously you would be better to unplug after every use and go to the freezer trick each time round until either repaired or replaced.....don't ever let the power pack get wet...

using the freezer to chill the unit alters the electrolyte properties of the remaining electrolyte in the capacitors and brings it within functioning levels for a single use, once run up to working temperature this needs to be redone after unplugging/switching off...

45 minutes is a good time to allow the cold to work it's way through the casing and into the metalwork, components etc.....but forgetting about it and leaving too long can result in bursting of capacitors and condensation inside that can cause damage...so 45 minutes is ideal...
 
Cheers G!
After hours of trawling RS I found suitable jobbies, but now I think I've lost me part numbers!!! Numpty!
The thing is a Time Capsule or something, but she now saying she just wants the disc, so we'll see!
What an appalling design the thing is though, from heat dissipation view!.
We took it to an Apple centre the other day, guy just says it's dead, REALLY! Wan......

addition

Good to know there's some electronics geezers on here, prepare to get brains picked!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
4 radial elecro ones? what values and V's and I will have a rummage around in the boxes next time I'm in the spark lab......

I prefer to use self fluxing silver solder when re-doing electrolytic caps, then I put a dod of hot melt glue on the side to fix them as well....silver solder gives a good contact with the surface on the track pad once you have the old solder off with de-soldering braid....no need for laquer spray or anything

Another thing I do is to use the (red) hot run caps (rubycon or similar) which have a good tolerance to the heat build up of the inside of a power pack....they are made for hot running, power packs are hot running in a lot of instances...standard capacitors dry out a lot more quickly...

if you ever have dried caps in a power supply and need temporary use in an emergency until your spares arrive(or your new power pack, if not keen on repairing) for example to use your laptop then an old trick is to tie the power pack (minus the mains lead if it detaches preferably) into a carrier bag, put it into the freezer for 45 minutes, take it out and it will work, after switching off, it will not work again unless you stick it back in the freezer, but as long as it is powered on it will function.....this is just a last resort fix and obviously you would be better to unplug after every use and go to the freezer trick each time round until either repaired or replaced.....don't ever let the power pack get wet...

using the freezer to chill the unit alters the electrolyte properties of the remaining electrolyte in the capacitors and brings it within functioning levels for a single use, once run up to working temperature this needs to be redone after unplugging/switching off...

45 minutes is a good time to allow the cold to work it's way through the casing and into the metalwork, components etc.....but forgetting about it and leaving too long can result in bursting of capacitors and condensation inside that can cause damage...so 45 minutes is ideal...
but works at high tempretures
 
Cheers G! After hours of trawling RS I found suitable jobbies, but now I think I've lost me part numbers!!! Numpty! The thing is a Time Capsule or something, but she now saying she just wants the disc, so we'll see! What an appalling design the thing is though, from heat dissipation view!. We took it to an Apple centre the other day, guy just says it's dead, REALLY! Wan...... addition Good to know there's some electronics geezers on here, prepare to get brains picked!
I have detailed files..... but that makes you a more efficient fixing machine... Affirmative....
 
Evening all, would any of you kind people know what the cause would be for my samsung 40 " tv to have sound but no picture? There's nothing there, the screen is just black. It was working quite happily yesterday but i've just got in and switched it on and this has happened.
pop a good photo of the Circuit board on here if you can, would be good if there is a bit of a closer photo of the board where the cable to the screen is connected as well......then I can get to scheming up a repair plan...
 
If u have a hotline number for Samsung call them and tell them ur problem they have repair warehouses u can take ur faulty Samsung goods to, I bought a Samsung cinema surround system a few years back, got the number of 1 of the booklets that came with it gave them a call after giving them a round of ****s over the phone and they gave me the number for one of the repair places they have, it were'nt all that far from where I live either, I haven't got the number now but like I said if u got the Manuel and whatever came with ur tv check it out, hope this helps u mate!
 

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