Shower switch short cable

[Dark Eyes]

The switch on my electrical shower has stopped working, so I got a replacement, and when I went to change it, I couldn't pull the switch away from the box further than about 1cm. It seems that the person that fitted it pulled the cable back towards the consumer unit, and didn't consider the possibility of having to change the switch in the future.
Any advice as to how I might get the switch replaced, without removing the consumer unit, and having no access to the roof void above?

 

[Rockingit]

Look for a Click Mode 50A shower isolator - they have the terminals in the base section that fits to the ceiling instead of the front plate. The existing connections you'll just have to tease off as best you can.

 

[DPG]

Look for a Click Mode 50A shower isolator - they have the terminals in the base section that fits to the ceiling instead of the front plate. The existing connections you'll just have to tease off as best you can.

I still think they should do 13A sockets like that.

 

[Dark Eyes]

Look for a Click Mode 50A shower isolator - they have the terminals in the base section that fits to the ceiling instead of the front plate. The existing connections you'll just have to tease off as best you can.

There is about an 8cm gap to the wall, so I might be able to move it closer to try and get some slack. The shower is labelled as 9.5kW, so I bought a 45A switch, which I thought would be suitable, especially as it has the wire screws on the side of the base unit - does it need a 50A?

 

[Rockingit]

There is about an 8cm gap to the wall, so I might be able to move it closer to try and get some slack. The shower is labelled as 9.5kW, so I bought a 45A switch, which I thought would be suitable, especially as it has the wire screws on the side of the base unit - does it need a 50A?

45a is fine for rating (roughly 4.3A per kW so 4.3 x 9.5 = 38A) my reason for having said the Click 50A is just that I know the design of them is good for this situation, but if your other one also has terminals on the base then crack on.

Although....... this whole thread, of course, assumes that ALL the rest of the circuit is fit for purpose and safe, that you personally are competent to do the replacement safely and that in doing so none of the original characteristics of the circuit are going to change (if they do, it's notifiable work).

Also.... don't fall into the trap of using an isolator as the shower on/off - it's really not what they're designed for - leave it on!