Discuss TRAC timers?? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Kev2632

Hello i was wondering could explain to me what the information means on the number 2 output means?? and is number 2 and 1 the option of having two outputs on the timer?? thanks
image_1364238206998015.jpg
 
1 and 2 are the actual switching contacts (which are brought together when the timer says), 3 and 4 are your permanent mains Live and Neutral to run the clock. Without the link you could, for example switch a 12 volt circuit connected to 1 and 2, this is known as "volt free switching". With the link in place it supplies 240v from the permanent live (3) to the switching contacts so you could switch a 240v load on without supplying a separate mains feed.
 
Thanks, I just interpreted what it said on the back, too. :) Having wired one of these myself I wish my colleague had looked at the back. Mine worked first time, and his blew up three timers as he randomly wired them as "I thought that's how they went." :D
 
So if the link isn't put in between the the two contacts, what does it mean by volt free contacts on these two contacts ? Is the voltage being put out by the timer 240volts on those 1 and 2 contacts ?
 
If the link isn't put between 2 and 3 the switching contacts 1 & 2 are electrically separate from the mains voltage running the clock (3 & 4). There will be no voltage supplied from the timer to either 1 or 2, which is why as I said you could switch a 12v supply connect to 1 & 2 without it getting blasted with 240v, as it would if the link was there.
 
So say i want to switch using the two outputs on the timer, i would need to put the link in between 2 and 3 for the the contacts 1 and 2 to switch yea??
 
If the link isn't put between 2 and 3 the switching contacts 1 & 2 are electrically separate from the mains voltage running the clock (3 & 4). There will be no voltage supplied from the timer to either 1 or 2, which is why as I said you could switch a 12v supply connect to 1 & 2 without it getting blasted with 240v, as it would if the link was there.
Is that right what im thinking, if the link is in between 2 and 3, that will allow me to switch 240volts on contact 1 yea?
 
Basically what I've got is this for the scenario, and it's a manual override switch and and photocell and the timer you see there, and basically we have a supply from the mcb to connection 3 and that other brown there goes to the over switch and and two browns leave the overide switch and come back to 1 and two there, the slightly darker brown is the return switch wire from the photocell and the black and grey cores go to two separate contactors, is this setup correct?
 
Basically what I've got is this for the scenario, and it's a manual override switch and and photocell and the timer you see there, and basically we have a supply from the mcb to connection 3 and that other brown there goes to the over switch and and two browns leave the overide switch and come back to 1 and two there, the slightly darker brown is the return switch wire from the photocell and the black and grey cores go to two separate contactors, is this setup correct?
What functionality are you trying to achieve?
 
That's the way this has been wired since ages, there is a photo cell and a timer involved here, and i can't seem to understand how the timer will work if there is no link present here?
 
It looks like the link is present: in the picture you have two browns going into terminal 3, with the right one looking as if it goes off to the switch. Is it an intermediate switch? I see it has four terminals.
 
It looks like the link is present: in the picture you have two browns going into terminal 3, with the right one looking as if it goes off to the switch. Is it an intermediate switch? I see it has four terminals.
No the two browns are the supply into timeclock from the left and it leaves and goes to a key switch which is a double pole switch and the two browns come back and go into 1 and 2 ??? That means it won't work with 240 volts output unless the link is there which isn't, is that correct what im thinking??
 
As far as I can tell, you have:
The override switch when operated will switch on both black wire and grey wire contactors irrespective of photocell or timer operation.

The photocell when activated will switch on the grey contactor irrespective of the timer and when the timer is on then both black and grey contactors will be on.

When the timer is on, if the photocell is off then nothing will come on.

I.e if it is dark one contactor is on
If it is light nothing is on
If the timer is on AND it is dark then both contactors will be on.
Override switch does what it says.

What operation are you wanting to happen? what is your aim in working on this circuit?
 
As far as I can tell, you have:
The override switch when operated will switch on both black wire and grey wire contactors irrespective of photocell or timer operation.

The photocell when activated will switch on the grey contactor irrespective of the timer and when the timer is on then both black and grey contactors will be on.

When the timer is on, if the photocell is off then nothing will come on.

I.e if it is dark one contactor is on
If it is light nothing is on
If the timer is on AND it is dark then both contactors will be on.
Override switch does what it says.

What operation are you wanting to happen? what is your aim in working on this circuit?

yea youve hit the nail on the head there i think, its just my boss asked me to have a look at the job today for him because the college is complaining that only some of the light are working, so to me that sounds like the timer is broken isnt it??
 
Depending on what the contactors, switch. then that is possible. If some lights come on when it is dark and others do not then the only way this can happen is if the contactor has gone or the timer has gone (unless all the lamps have gone in the one set of lights!

Easy way to test that is to set the timer to on and (with the power off) see if you have continuity between 1 and 2.
Similar type of test for the contactor in some ways.
 
Depending on what the contactors, switch. then that is possible. If some lights come on when it is dark and others do not then the only way this can happen is if the contactor has gone or the timer has gone (unless all the lamps have gone in the one set of lights!

Easy way to test that is to set the timer to on and (with the power off) see if you have continuity between 1 and 2.
Similar type of test for the contactor in some ways.

okay i understand yea, for testing for continuity on the contactor do you just test between a1 and a2 yea?? ( power off)
 

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