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Discuss Upgrading MR16 TO GU10 in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi all,

I have a failed transformer in a bedroom and want to convert all the bulbs in this bedroom to GU10 (4 bulbs) This is so I can use LED bulbs without hassle.

Is there any type of notification needed for this type of work? Can I just get on with it?

Thanks
 
I am competant enough to do this.
Regarding the earths I have already checked the current setup and they are still there (connected via a junction box)

In regards to getting it tested I will be having a new consumer unit installed in the coming months so the circuit will be tested then.
 
Yes a complete board change to RCBOs.. I assume they will test every circuit during this upgrade? Would this be classed as a electrical inspection report?

The plan was to change all the lamp holders.
 
So you need to get some sparks to quote you for the board and lighting tests.

A board change needs to be tested and inspected and you will need to check that said sparks will be providing you with an EIC. An EIC is not a report, thats an EICR which is not a suitable certificate for a board change

If you are in England or Wales this work falls under Part P of the building regs and again, you need to check that said spark is going to cover this will self certification ............
 
Those downlights are designed for ise with selv (12v) not 240v imo no you cannot just change the lampholder if the body of the downlight is metalic it not sould be earthed via the cpc. Far simpler/better/safer to install new fire rated led downlights, reccomend tamlight, than p***ing about with the old ones.
 
Those downlights are designed for ise with selv (12v) not 240v imo no you cannot just change the lampholder if the body of the downlight is metalic it not sould be earthed via the cpc. Far simpler/better/safer to install new fire rated led downlights, reccomend tamlight, than p***ing about with the old ones.

It's not the 1st of April yet is it ??:D
 
Those downlights are designed for ise with selv (12v) not 240v imo no you cannot just change the lampholder if the body of the downlight is metalic it not sould be earthed via the cpc.

How can you possibly state that? I'm not aware of any photo's and there are downlights on the market with both leads in the packaging.
 
If there are downlights on the market with both leads out they must be class 2 fittings. How can i state that, because the body of the standard 12v downlight has not been designed for a 240v lampholder simple.
 
and , as an aside, the confusion over the purpose of fire rated downlights. they are fire rated not to stop them catching fire, but to preserve the fire barrier (if applicable) into which they are fitted, to prevent the spread of fire ( however caused) through the ceiling.
 
Hi all,

I have a failed transformer in a bedroom and want to convert all the bulbs in this bedroom to GU10 (4 bulbs) This is so I can use LED bulbs without hassle.

Is there any type of notification needed for this type of work? Can I just get on with it?

Thanks

MR16 is the size of the multifaceted reflector in 8ths of an inch. GU10 is a type of base.

Most GU10 lamps are MR16. Your thread title is meaningless, please explain.
 
MR16 is the size of the multifaceted reflector in 8ths of an inch. GU10 is a type of base.

Most GU10 lamps are MR16. Your thread title is meaningless, please explain.

How can you say that? His existing lamps are MR16, i.e. multifaceted reflector 16/8ths of an inch in diameter. MR16 lamps come in 12v, 24v, 120v and 240v. MR 16 is NOT a type of base.

Or both at the same time.
MR16 is the size of the lamp, not a base. GU10 is a base not a type of lamp.

In common parlance... GU10 is commonly used to refer to a 240v reflector spotlamp... MR16 is commonly used to refer to a 12v reflector spotlamp.

You've got a lot of convincing to do since nearly every single supplier I've seen uses MR16 to refer to 12v reflectors spots and GU10 to refer to their 240v equivalent.

It's like the term ring main... you say ring final circuit to a customer and you can see their eyes glaze over, but say ring main and most of them know what you're talking about... a bit like MCB, RCD, RCBO vs Fuse. Consumer unit vs. fusebox.

If someone says to me MR16 I immediately think 12v reflector spot with push fit pin style connections... GU10, 240v reflector spot with a bayonet style twist lock connector.
 
In common parlance... GU10 is commonly used to refer to a 240v reflector spotlamp... MR16 is commonly used to refer to a 12v reflector spotlamp.

You've got a lot of convincing to do since nearly every single supplier I've seen uses MR16 to refer to 12v reflectors spots and GU10 to refer to their 240v equivalent.

That does not make it right does it? We are professionals on here and should use the correct terms. The suppliers, and others, will never learn if they are not corrected.
 
That does not make it right does it? We are professionals on here and should use the correct terms. The suppliers, and others, will never learn if they are not corrected.
Let’s not try and reinvent the wheel, they are 12v MR 16 - 240v lights are GU10 and an American boxcutter is a Stanley knife deal with it ........;)
 
Strictly speaking the MR is more to do with the reflector, the lamp fitting base is actually GU5.3 but they are commonly referred to MR16 which is technically incorrect:D
 
Yet people still have not taken it on board. Using incorrect terms is confusing.
I agree with you that MR16 is the dimension of the lamp and the lamp base is GU5.3 but go into a wholesaler and ask for a GU5.3 lamp you are likely to get blank looks, say MR16 and all becomes clear.
 
I agree with you that MR16 is the dimension of the lamp and the lamp base is GU5.3 but go into a wholesaler and ask for a GU5.3 lamp you are likely to get blank looks, say MR16 and all becomes clear.

Are wholesalers really that stupid that they don't know what GU5.3 is?

MR16 is not clear. MR16 lamps come in GU5.3, GU10, small ES, and small bayonet.
 
There is no guarantee that when the circuit is tested on the CU change that this will show that the earths have been snipped for an MR16/GU5.3 12v downlight! The continuity may be there at the furthest point on the circuit but the lamps in question may have no earth. Suggest this is done with someone who has test equipment and can check properly rather than guess.
 
Just crack on as long as you feel competant to do so, just check if cpcs (eaths) are present and continuous as sometimes they used to get cut off when selv fittings were installed

And not just the cpc's, the fitting now becomes class 1 and should have an earth tail attached to it to connect to the cpc's.
 

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