Discuss Voltage on fittings in bathroom in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Dartlec

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One of the oddest jobs I've ever had today. Called by a plumber I know who had attended after a leak through the kitchen ceiling from bathroom above - and got a shock from the bathroom tap (and his 'pen glowed on everything')

Turned up to check and, sure enough, voltage of 16V AC showing on the (plumbed) towel radiator, the basin tap and the bath taps - but not on other pipework. This disappeared when the socket circuit was isolated.

Kewtech pen more or less lit up anywhere in the bathroom, including the walls - and the carpet of the adjacent room!

There was no supplementary bonding in place, and a late 60s metal Wylex board with plug in MCBs, There was gas bonding, but no water bonding - however the incoming water was seemingly in some sort of plastic (Plumber didn't know it's name but has seen it before used in properties of this age)

My first thoughts was that perhaps a junction box was sitting in water...

However the plumber struggled to find any noticeable leak, other than a fairly small but constant run from the shower screen when shower was on...

Lots of head scratching later and discovered the problem, but not one I would have guessed at.

Finally cut a hole in the kitchen ceiling below, to find a damp patch (but not floods of water) right where the cabling ran up in the stud wall to a socket in the adjacent bedroom.

Located the relevant socket in the back of a built in chest of drawers, and the bottom wooden joist of the stud wall was sopping wet. However, the socket itself was bone dry with no sign of water damage. Also no sign of damage to the cable sheath where it ran through the wet wood.

However, it it looks like in some way the flow from the shower had run under the tiles and soaked the joist of the stud wall opposite, enough to allow current to transfer to the heating pipes that also ran through the wall.

This then seemingly transferred to the radiator, and all the other metal fittings in the bathroom.

Interestingly, the basin tap and the radiator were both connected with short plastic tails to copper - I can only assume that the water itself was conductive enough to allow enough of a current to give a noticeable reading. Does show that short 'insulating' pieces don't negate the need for bonding.

Pulling the cabling down into the ceiling below and reconnecting it removed the stray voltage so that clearly was the problem. Whether the leak was resolved or not is fortunately down to the plumber!

It was an emergency job with no warning after a long week, so my brain wasn't fully in gear, but it has raised some interesting issues for me...

My initial thought is that supplementary bonding the pipes in the adjacent boiler cupboard (which should have been done at some point since there is no RCD) would have made this safer, but I'm actually not 100% on that in this particular case...

Since the incoming water is actually in plastic, under current Regs there would be no need for equipotential bonding it - and had supplementary bonding been in place, it's possible that this voltage would have been transferred to the rest of the house, since I imagine the ~16V would not have been enough to trip the MCB.

Am I right in suspecting that?

The best protection would obviously be RCD protection, but it's interesting to note that the circuit that caused the issue in this case is not a bathroom one or even one that ran through a bathroom, so would not necessarily be considered on an EICR as a C2 due to lack of RCD protection (because it covered downstairs sockets in this case it would, but if it had only been upstairs sockets then I'd have considered it a C3.)

I guess it's also possible that the current was below 30mA, but I experienced it myself and it was definitely more than a static tingle.

I've raised the topic of a new consumer unit with the elderly houseowner and she seemed keen so hopefully we will resolve that at some point. And the plumber will ensure that the leak is sorted too.

Is this a situation that others have run into? Am I missing something blindingly obvious?

The leak seems to have been generated by the British Gas man servicing the boiler in the morning, and possibly running the shower for a while (which the homeowner rarely uses) and causing the leak this time, but there were tide marks on the stud wallpaper that suggested it had happened before....

Pics to follow if anyone's interested....
 
If there was no water or damp in the socket then I suspect there's possibly still a damaged cable, cable with a screw or nail in or junction box somewhere any or all of which have water around them.

There's a path from Live via water to tap / radiator somewhere.
 
The isolated section of pipe only applies to potable water. I think heating water is generally conductive. I don't think plumbers bond anything anymore and assume it's rcd protected or not needed. Did you measure between the rad and a known earth? I reckon you would have had a higher voltage if you did.
 
I would have thought the heating pipes were likely to be earthed through something connected to it, a boiler or pump etc. I think it still makes sense to earth copper pipework considering it's usually in the same vacinity as cables and touched frequently.
 
If there was no water or damp in the socket then I suspect there's possibly still a damaged cable, cable with a screw or nail in or junction box somewhere any or all of which have water around them.

There's a path from Live via water to tap / radiator somewhere.
That's what I was expecting - but in the area that the leak appeared to be, there was literally no other cabling. The house was late 60s council, so not over supplied with sockets...

Wooden stud wall too - no metal studwork back then, probably for the best in this case...

Given that the voltage disappeared the moment I isolated the socket in question, it does seem to have been the culprit, though not entirely sure of the mechanism.
 
The isolated section of pipe only applies to potable water. I think heating water is generally conductive. I don't think plumbers bond anything anymore and assume it's rcd protected or not needed. Did you measure between the rad and a known earth? I reckon you would have had a higher voltage if you did.
Yes, I measured from rad to earth (same 'source' circuit) at a local socket with my MFT and got 16V - measuring between tap and rad gave me about 15V..

That's why I suspected an indirect conductor (water), rather than direct touching of a cable to a pipe somewhere, as then I would have expected closer to mains voltage....
 
This is what I found when access hole was cut in the ceiling below:

2021-11-11 17.27.56.jpg

and this is the socket that was above:
Not obvious from the pic, but the lower part of the wall was sopping wet - and there were 'tide marks' on the wallpaper

2021-11-11 19.15.52.jpg


Same wall but at about shoulder height:

2021-11-11 17.35.31.jpg

PVC fittings below towel radiator

2021-11-11 18.41.43.jpg

and basin:

2021-11-11 15.46.25.jpg
 
This is what I found when access hole was cut in the ceiling below:

View attachment 91915

and this is the socket that was above:
Not obvious from the pic, but the lower part of the wall was sopping wet - and there were 'tide marks' on the wallpaper

View attachment 91918


Same wall but at about shoulder height:

View attachment 91916

PVC fittings below towel radiator

View attachment 91917

and basin:

View attachment 91914
something wrong there. 2 x T/E going up into the wall, but not to that socket back box, which has 1 cable running through it, .
 
It's good that the voltage has disappeared, but frustrating that you didn't find some electrics drenched in water, but rather a bone dry socket. I can't see how that could still be causing a problem if it was completely dry.

The 2 possibilities are that there is fault somewhere else, or the fault is with that socket and we just can't work out why. Frustrating!

Just for my understanding. How do you explain getting 'more than a tingle' from the 16v. I always thought anything less than 50V and you are not going to feel it?
 
Apparently, 0.5mA is perceivable, 10-30mA is the threshold of letting go and involuntary muscle contractions usually without organic damage. 50V is a value that is said to be non-leathal, if the body is said to be 1000ohm in wet conditions and 50mA is deadly then touch voltage must be below 50V.

This issue has got me thinking though if the heating pipework is earthed the copper pipework connected directly touches live it blows the fuse but if a plumber installs a push-fit fitting, the good earth connection is severed but it may have enough of an earth path through contaminants in the water to cause harm ie below 7666 ohm but exceeding 0.05ohm required for bonding. I'll have to see if I can dig out a copy of GN8 as I'm a bit rusty currently.

Out of interest I drained some water from my heating system, discarding the first sample due to the magnetite, I used two 15mm copper pipes as electrodes connected to my mft in a small tub with the electrode around 75mm apart, I measured 200ohm across the sample. At 1.2amps that's a powerful tens machine...
 
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John Ward did a vid on water conductivity and if I remember right it is not. However I could beleive radiator water could be conductive due to the magnetite in the water. So that being so it could explain why the taps are live. In that they are connected to the radiator/boiler system. That then supposes it comes off the RFC rather than it's own circuit as the v. went off when you isolated the socket circuit. I think the live pen is a red herring, or at least not a reliable way of establishing facts about the matter. Not sure why I think this but is there a junction box somewhere? The screw/nail through a cable is very likely. Which then would lead to IR on the RFC. Might help to ascertain earth leakage and test for R between MET and pipework with a view to bonding in the absence of RCD.
 
It's good that the voltage has disappeared, but frustrating that you didn't find some electrics drenched in water, but rather a bone dry socket. I can't see how that could still be causing a problem if it was completely dry.

The 2 possibilities are that there is fault somewhere else, or the fault is with that socket and we just can't work out why. Frustrating!

Just for my understanding. How do you explain getting 'more than a tingle' from the 16v. I always thought anything less than 50V and you are not going to feel it?
I think the 50V is set as a 'safe' level in that it won't do permanent harm, rather than won't be felt? It's the mA that matters - and I'd guess it was probably well below anything that would trip a standard RCD - but definitely not the sort of tingle you want to feel, let alone when in a bathroom....

I'm not an expert on judging levels of shock, but it was probably on the level of the kick a fresh 9V battery gives you on your tongue, but through fingers - and of course AC, so with that little extra bite...
 
John Ward did a vid on water conductivity and if I remember right it is not. However I could beleive radiator water could be conductive due to the magnetite in the water. So that being so it could explain why the taps are live. In that they are connected to the radiator/boiler system. That then supposes it comes off the RFC rather than it's own circuit as the v. went off when you isolated the socket circuit. I think the live pen is a red herring, or at least not a reliable way of establishing facts about the matter. Not sure why I think this but is there a junction box somewhere? The screw/nail through a cable is very likely. Which then would lead to IR on the RFC. Might help to ascertain earth leakage and test for R between MET and pipework with a view to bonding in the absence of RCD.

I'm hoping that I persuaded her that a new CU is worthwhile, so will be able to give the place a full test in due course. But it seems to have been wired originally in the late 60s as a council house, with no obvious changes since then.

The upstairs floor is in ply throughout, so floorboards are not even an easy option to lift. You'd like to think that means they didn't randomly put junction boxes under there, though it's certainly a possibility.

The pen was more just for interest I agree, certainly didn't rely on it for any diagnostics - was amusing to see it light up on the carpet though, (which it turns out was slightly damp underneath but not detectable from above).

The heating water with magnetite does make sense, but it doesn't fully explain the conductivity between the heating pipes and live power. If it was the shower water then that wouldn't normally be directly linked to the central heating ring. The plumber was fairly confident that the pressure on the system meant the heating system wasn't leaking, but the stud wall was definitely wet - though not completely sodden.

We are in a hard water area, so not sure whether limescale content makes water more conductive or not - pure water isn't conductive at all is my understanding.

I'm still not entirely clear in my head what was going on - and there are some tests I'd run in hindsight - such as an IR between the socket circuit and metalwork, before and afterwards.

But sometimes when it's getting late and the hours are mounting up, you have to move on once you've solved the problem that presented itself.

I wrote a report for the homeowner for her insurance company so they may investigate more - and if/when I go back to change the CU I'll certainly be doing more testing on the circuits.

In this particular case though, I'm still not clear whether supplementary bonding in the boiler cupboard would have made things safer or not? It would have tied all the pipework together, but could that not just have applied 16V to all pipework?

Would further main bonding the copper mains water pipe (even though in plastic entering the property from the ground) have ensured a 32A plug in MCB would have tripped? It's an old but serviceable PME system.
 
If all touchable conductive parts were linked then it would go through the bonding and not the person. I think it's a good idea not to export the earth potential from an installation where it's not required like steelwork or tray where the connection to earth isn't good enough to cause a harmful current to flow.

My thoughts were that the heating water could induce a potential by being earthed elsewhere making an extraneous-conductive part, if it's separated using the plastic pipe and no longer being connected to the MET a dangerous current could flow but not trip the fuse.

Unless the legs to the towel radiator were earthed too I think you would still have a problem applying supplementary bonding.

If it was connected to the main earth terminal and for instance had a resistance of 0.05ohm then 16/0.05 = 320amp. good enough for a 63A type B 60898 to trip in 0.1 sec.
 
I had something similar when we were doing a refurb of a bathroom, plumber was getting electric shocks, when he touch his copper pipes and bathroom (plastered) wall. I was getting 240v, wall to pipe. Even found the same in adjoining landing and bedroom.

Got some help in, upgraded earth to earth rod and bonding. Sometimes the fault never presented. Checked connections in loft, as we identified upstairs lighting as the faulty circuit. Got to early evening and we were sat the landing scratching our heads, on the landing outside the bathroom. The landing had wooden dado rail. One Sparks said, have they nailed that dado rail below the light switch?

Sure enough, great big nail through one strapper, for the two way on the landing light. Which would explain, why the fault wasn’t always there, depending on how the light was switched. Been like it for years.
 
Interesting plumbing! It's usual to use plastic pipework for the feed under the floor to radiators, and then use copper for the final connectios to the rad. This appears to be the other way around.

The whole system was probably originally in copper, then this radiator was probably changed more recently and plastic piping used.
 
Turned up to check and, sure enough, voltage of 16V AC showing on the (plumbed) towel radiator, the basin tap and the bath taps - but not on other pipework. This disappeared when the socket circuit was isolated.

Yes, I measured from rad to earth (same 'source' circuit) at a local socket with my MFT and got 16V - measuring between tap and rad gave me about 15V..

There shouldn't be any voltage between the tap and radiator if they are linked.
 
I think they are paint runs.
I think you're missing that the first picture shows two off T&E going up through the hole, then the next picture shows one cable in the socket back box. I agree, the two white lines below and to the right of the socket do look like paint runs.

I can't help thinking there's a joint in that wall, and it's "not been made very well". Or even, that there's a nail through a cable providing a path through the insulation to make the timber live. In terms of conductivity, it's dissolved salts that make water conductive - and there'll be all sorts naturally in the timber, plus plenty of plaster dust etc from construction. As pointed out, it won't be a very low resistance, but it doesn't need to be to give a tingle.
 

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