Is it OK to terminate switched fused spur with 13A socket?

[Pete999]

That's an interesting thought. The two new machines both have quite short mains cables, especially the washing machine.

With longer leads, I could consider installing all three sockets inside an adjacent tall larder unit. In that case, I guess I would just use switched sockets and forget about having DP isolation switches.

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

 

[ipf]

That's an interesting thought. The two new machines both have quite short mains cables, especially the washing machine.

With longer leads, I could consider installing all three sockets inside an adjacent tall larder unit. In that case, I guess I would just use switched sockets and forget about having DP isolation switches.

Well done.......I see the old grey matter has just kicked in.

 

[haggis999]

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

That's what I would use. I haven't checked other catalogues, but I think all the MK switched socket outlets use DP switches.

 

[haggis999]

Well done.......I see the old grey matter has just kicked in.

That doesn't normally happen until well after lunch on a Sunday

 

[Midwest]

That's what I would use. I haven't checked other catalogues, but I think all the MK switched socket outlets use DP switches.

There are other manufacturers of DP socket outlets

 

[Midwest]

That doesn't normally happen until well after lunch on a Sunday

I would ensure you use a longer lead supplied via the manufacturer, if one is available. Cutting off a moulded plug is unlikely to invalidate a warranty, replacing their lead with your own might. They might also stipulate that it would need replacing by one of their engineers or a qualified electrician.

 

[haggis999]

I would ensure you use a longer lead supplied via the manufacturer, if one is available. Cutting off a moulded plug is unlikely to invalidate a warranty, replacing their lead with your own might. They might also stipulate that it would need replacing by one of their engineers or a qualified electrician.

I have already emailed the manufacturer to ask if longer mains cables are available, though until I read your post I had been thinking that there was probably nothing to stop me from replacing the cables myself.

Another answer could be to cut off the plugs and use an inline cable connector to extend the cable. That way, I would not be interfering with the internals of the appliance.

 

[Midwest]

I have already emailed the manufacturer to ask if longer mains cables are available, though until I read your post I had been thinking that there was probably nothing to stop me from replacing the cables myself.

Another answer could be to cut off the plugs and use an inline cable connector to extend the cable. That way, I would not be interfering with the internals of the appliance.

An inline connector is an option, but would try for a replacement lead if possible. Unnecessary connections, can always prove problematic, especially once its installed below a floor unit.

Edit, some of those in-line connectors are rated at 10amp or less.

 

[HandySparks]

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

If you can reach the socket to switch off, you can just pull the plug.

 

[haggis999]

Thanks to everyone for what has been a very useful conversation. I will now wait a day or two to see if the manufacturer can supply longer mains cables at a sensible price.

 

[DPG]

Fit socket in adjacent cupboard. No depth problems then - even when you change an appliance in a few years and realise that the plug/socket arrangement now doesn't give enough clearance for the new appliance.

 

[David M]

Its always tricky to make a decision regarding this lay out when considering all factors. Personally I prefer to site the sockets/connection points in positions which are accessible without removal of the appliance. In your case this might not be a practical option so would probably go with one of the methods already suggested on this thread thus far.
Just a quick thought only partly related to the electrical consideration. Are you intending to install worktop support panels between each appliance? 1846mm is quite a length of work top to be unsupported, though I'm sure you have considered this?

 

[DPG]

Just a quick thought only partly related to the electrical consideration. Are you intending to install worktop support panels between each appliance? 1846mm is quite a length of work top to be unsupported, though I'm sure you have considered this?

Presumably will be battened to the wall though, so not entirely unsupported.

 

[David M]

Presumably will be battened to the wall though, so not entirely unsupported.

Yes, I presume so, but if it is the typical laminated off the shelf type, in my experience they still have a tendency to bow unless supported periodically @ no more than 600mm - 800mm

 

[DPG]

Maybe a chrome post in the middle?

 

[David M]

Maybe a chrome post in the middle?

Yeah its an option, but the OP mentions he has 23mm between each appliance suggesting room maybe a bit on the tight side. Without seeing the plans an 18mm décor end panel each side of the centre appliance would be my choice. This would, in my opinion, be aesthetically better and may also help to determine the choice of electrical connection for the appliances.

 

[haggis999]

Maybe a chrome post in the middle?

I was aware that some support would be required for the worktop, but was trying to avoid the option of using decor panels that would totally fill the gap between the machines. My preference is for a solution that allows a greater degree of airflow.

I've not yet discussed this with my chosen installer, but the idea of using chromed metal posts came up in a discussion this morning with a potential supplier of the kitchen units that will sit on each side of the appliances. One post in each gap might be enough, assuming the presence of wall battens, but I think it would have to be fairly near the front rather than the middle. Installing two posts in each gap is another option.

On the electrical front, the supplier of our new washer and dryer has told me that they only supply replacement mains cords at the original lengths. I will now take a closer look at how much disassembly is needed to replace these cables.

 

[Colin33]

Is there not a way to fit one (or both) of your cupboards between the appliances? My preference is always to fit socket outlets in adjacent cupboards. This also avoids the need for extra unsightly FCU's to tile around above the worktop. And less danger of being inadvertently switched off...

 

[driverman]

Re worktop span. Yes you would need additional support. Job I've just been on similar situation. They used 2 x large 90 degree wall brackets fixed directly underneath worktop. If no support, worktop will bow within a short time.

 

[haggis999]

Is there not a way to fit one (or both) of your cupboards between the appliances? My preference is always to fit socket outlets in adjacent cupboards. This also avoids the need for extra unsightly FCU's to tile around above the worktop. And less danger of being inadvertently switched off...

That's not a very practical option in our situation, as it would severely limit the storage capacity in the utility room. My plan is to have the 3 appliances sit in a row under the window, which is almost as wide as the machines. The rest of that wall is taken up by a tall larder unit on the right and a corner unit on the left. There will also be a pair of wall cabinets above the corner unit (one of which will act as a cover for the CH boiler). If I put a base unit in the middle then I would have to lose the tall larder unit.