What code? bonding conductor

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Discuss What code? bonding conductor in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

i'd be more concerned about that floating open end red insulated conductor and that ropey looking blue crimp connector.
 
Also the neutral in terminal 10 looks as if the copper strands have been nicked when stripped....
 
Compared to the crimped connections, that connector on the earth doesn't look too bad in the photo!
 
and a yellow crimp behind the spare way.what else is hidden from view? this appears to have been a CU upgrade . if so, it was a job crying out for a din rail box cable extension, to avoid all these bodges. Electrical Trainee or Dave from the pub, done it for £150 + 2 pints?
 
Cables have been extended.
Red Blue and Yellow insulated crimps have been used on appropriate cables.
Terminal blocks on larger cables.
I guess whoever did the work didn’ fancy using solder or uninsulated crimps?
 
Hate unfixed block connectors proper unskilled work and those who approve how do you suggest anyone can check terminal tightness in this instance.
 
westward10 said:
Back of the board has been knocked out leaving internal conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
Click to expand...
I haven't seen someone cut the back of a board out before. I'd have thought it would've compromised the manufacturer's design in several non recoverable ways. Stuffed it, in short.
 
I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
 
kingeri said:
I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
Click to expand...
Indeed. It's particularly advantageous where you need to add cables later. If access is tight, making a new hole in the side/top/bottom of a CU can be a right pain.
 
kingeri said:
I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
Click to expand...
Bit confused where does mounting it on battens come into it. The board in the picture clearly has the back knocked out, is mounted flat leaving conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
 
You can’t code it for being mounted on a wooden surface even with the back cut out IMO without evidence of a problem or even loose connections.
Bit like a plastic consumer unit which is combustible.
Check tightness of connections,tight and secure, no code.
 
Last edited:
westward10 said:
Bit confused where does mounting it on battens come into it. The board in the picture clearly has the back knocked out, is mounted flat leaving conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
Click to expand...
I was replying generally to the idea of using rear knockouts. In the OP's picture it does look like the CU is mounted straight on a wooden surface, with the back knocked out. Not sure why I must say.
 
Ian1981 said:
You can code it for being mounted on a wooden surface even with the back cut out IMO without evidence of a problem or even loose connections.
Bit like a plastic consumer unit which is combustible.
Check tightness of connections,tight and secure, no code.
Click to expand...
You mean can't code it?
 
pity there isn't a code for "it's an abortion but it works, dunnit?"
 

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