Discuss What code? bonding conductor in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
I see no connector block, a crimp maybeA connector block has been used to extend a 10mm water bond, what code would you recommend?
Thanks
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Good spoti'd be more concerned about that floating open end red insulated conductor and that ropey looking blue crimp connector.
Oh yes Specsavers indeed Tel, my mind was fixed on that crimp, tunnel vision at it's best sorry OP ignore my post #4.behind the blue crimp, pete. (specsavers?)
I would use a screw driver.Hate unfixed block connectors proper unskilled work and those who approve how do you suggest anyone can check terminal tightness in this instance.
How will you manage that in the OPs pic.I would use a screw driver.
I haven't seen someone cut the back of a board out before. I'd have thought it would've compromised the manufacturer's design in several non recoverable ways. Stuffed it, in short.Back of the board has been knocked out leaving internal conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
So am I.Looking forward to the day I ever get to the knowledge base many have on here.
So am I.
0Back of the board has been knocked out leaving internal conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
Indeed. It's particularly advantageous where you need to add cables later. If access is tight, making a new hole in the side/top/bottom of a CU can be a right pain.I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
Bit confused where does mounting it on battens come into it. The board in the picture clearly has the back knocked out, is mounted flat leaving conductors exposed to a combustible surface.I must say I see many CUs around here installed on wooden battens and all cables coming in through the rear knockout. Usually Wylex or Crabtree. Seems to have been the standard way of doing it for a long time.
Like the Plastic CUBit confused where does mounting it on battens come into it. The board in the picture clearly has the back knocked out, is mounted flat leaving conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
I was replying generally to the idea of using rear knockouts. In the OP's picture it does look like the CU is mounted straight on a wooden surface, with the back knocked out. Not sure why I must say.Bit confused where does mounting it on battens come into it. The board in the picture clearly has the back knocked out, is mounted flat leaving conductors exposed to a combustible surface.
You mean can't code it?You can code it for being mounted on a wooden surface even with the back cut out IMO without evidence of a problem or even loose connections.
Bit like a plastic consumer unit which is combustible.
Check tightness of connections,tight and secure, no code.
Ha yes!You mean can't code it?
pity there isn't a code for "it's an abortion but it works, dunnit?"
Reminds me of being back in IT support when we'd tell clients that they were experiencing an ID-10-T error
Is this an IT geek forum or what?
I class myself as a jock as opposed to a nerd/geekNot sure its exclusively IT geeks ... I'd say there are lots of geeks. Full stop
I class myself as a jock as opposed to a nerd/geek
AgreedNo code, it is accessible so screwed terminal is an acceptable form of termination.
Reply to What code? bonding conductor in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
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