stuck some in the van for the LED strip lighting. they fell off within a week.
 
Folk have already covered the Part P and non-DIY nature of this work, but if you decide you are competent to do it and have made arrangements for test, etc, then it would do no harm to read over the best practice guides first:

https://www.----------------------------/professional-resources/best-practice-guides/
(in particular #1, #2 and #4)

And specific guidance on fitting new CU:
https://www.----------------------------/media/1258/consumer-unit-connections.pdf
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The question of test equipment has already been covered, do you have anything?

Ideally you should have access to a voltage tester, proving unit, and a Multi Function Tester.

But realistically you need as a minimum a decent CAT-III / CAT-IV rated multimeter (and knowledge to use it safely) so you can:
  • Prove correct polarity (L & N right way round)
  • Check for reasonably low earth resistances for circuit earths and bonding
  • Check there are no obvious shorts from L to E/N before energising
  • Check ring continuity and some confidence the conductor impedances are matching (or in-ratio for E compared with L/N values).
  • Check you don't have cross-linked circuits (L to L, or N to N that should not be there such as "borrowed neutrals")
And whoever does the final test can do it correctly for insulation resistance, etc, along with Ze / PFC, etc.
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Missed the "N to E" checks from the list, drat!
 
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The above plus an insulation resistance tester will cover the required “dead” tests.

You would need to confirm the Ze of the supply, or you won’t be able to check that your Zs figures meet the EFLI requirements.
all clear so far?

before the installation is put into service a number of other tests are needed, a calibrated RCD tester is needed.
 
@killerjoule is just not really worth, is what the chaps are saying. I am a qualified electrician. I was in a Scheme up until 2 years ago, and regularly changed CU's, in my business.

Fast forward two years, I don't have the latest BS7671 C&G qualification, and no longer in a Scheme.

I have planning permission & building regs approval for some building work on my property. I will need my CU moving & probably replacing, along with some new circuits. Of course I could do it myself, and would like to.

However, it wouldn't be worth the hassle to prove to my LBC, I was more than capable. So I will be getting and electrician in. :weary:
 
@killerjoule is just not really worth, is what the chaps are saying. I am a qualified electrician. I was in a Scheme up until 2 years ago, and regularly changed CU's, in my business.

Fast forward two years, I don't have the latest BS7671 C&G qualification, and no longer in a Scheme.

I have planning permission & building regs approval for some building work on my property. I will need my CU moving & probably replacing, along with some new circuits. Of course I could do it myself, and would like to.

However, it wouldn't be worth the hassle to prove to my LBC, I was more than capable. So I will be getting and electrician in. :weary:
you may be wrong there. if you are 17th ed. or even 18th. qualified, in the case of new build where building control is already involved, usually just giving BC a copy of your quals. will allow you to install and certify, email them a copy of the cert. have a word with BC.
 
you may be wrong there. if you are 17th ed. or even 18th. qualified, in the case of new build where building control is already involved, usually just giving BC a copy of your quals. will allow you to install and certify, email them a copy of the cert. have a word with BC.

I will speak to my LBC once the lockdown is over, but from earlier dealings I've had on this matter, I'm doubtful. These BC's are a law unto themselves. That said, it was a while ago and people come & go.
 

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Is it ok for competent person to replace CU then get third party to test/certify
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