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AP1990LTN

Hello, Is one circuit for kitchen sockets enough, the circuit will include, 1xfrigde freezer, 1xextractor hood, 1x13a induction hob 1xwashing machine and 1xdishwasher then just usual sockets for kettle, microwave and toaster etc.
 
What is the size of the fuse or mcb?
 
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I would say so personally not good for one circuit. Any of those items you have mentioned have the potential to trip out your circuit with the consequences of losing all of the power to a lot of appliances.
I would imagine the loading requirements would be too much a for one circuit as well.
I would definitely recommend seeing how you could split the circuit for convenience if nothing else.
 
32A ring, cooker has its own supply but hob is on the kitchen ring.
 
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The hob might be only a 13A plug-in one now, but possibly in the future you might want something larger. But for now it is OK on the one ring.

As already alluded to: dishwashers and washing machines have an above-average chance of tripping RCD protection so it is helpful if you have an accessible means of isolating them (i.e. switch above the counter, not switched socket behind a machine you can hardly move) or maybe putting your fridge-freezer on another circuit so you don't lose food if that is happening.
 
The hob might be only a 13A plug-in one now, but possibly in the future you might want something larger. But for now it is OK on the one ring.

As already alluded to: dishwashers and washing machines have an above-average chance of tripping RCD protection so it is helpful if you have an accessible means of isolating them (i.e. switch above the counter, not switched socket behind a machine you can hardly move) or maybe putting your fridge-freezer on another circuit so you don't lose food if that is happening.
Yeah there are isolation switches above the counter for all appliances and each circuit has an RCBO, the installation has been installed for over a year now just wondering if i've designed it poorly
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Yeah there are isolation switches above the counter for all appliances and each circuit has an RCBO, the installation has been installed for over a year now just wondering if i've designed it poorly
That is a pretty normal kitchen setup of a ring and a cooker feed, with RCBO better than the more common single/dual RCD board.

In fact the accessible switches are not that common (but should be, and now part of Scottish building regulations) as a major advantage in fault finding or if something is making worrying noises or burning smells...
 
just wondering on the rating of the induction hob. might be a bit too much for being on the ring, considering other loads.
 
That is a pretty normal kitchen setup, with RCBO beter than the more common single/dual RCD board.

In fact the accessible switches are not that common (but should be, and now part of Scottish building regulations) as a major advantage in fault finding or if something is making worrying noises or burning smells...
Thats good to hear domestic isn't my standard work so wasn't sure if long term it would be bad for the cables running all those appliances as I'm sure occasionally id be near the 32A mark, once you've got the hob washing machine kettle, toaster on etc.
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just wondering on the rating of the induction hob. might be a bit too much for being on the ring, considering other loads.
2.4Kw
 
Thats good to hear domestic isn't my standard work so wasn't sure if long term it would be bad for the cables running all those appliances as I'm sure occasionally id be near the 32A mark, once you've got the hob washing machine kettle, toaster on etc.
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2.4Kw
i'd prefer that on it's own circuit, or with the oven
 
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Thats good to hear domestic isn't my standard work so wasn't sure if long term it would be bad for the cables running all those appliances as I'm sure occasionally id be near the 32A mark, once you've got the hob washing machine kettle, toaster on etc.
A ring in 2.5mm is fine for 32A load so long as it is distributed reasonably uniformly around the ring so both end are at ~16A and not, say 5A + 27A if all big loads are near one end.
 
Its been a year, and he hasn't taken the sticker off the oven door yet...

I'd be inclined to double up the hob and oven. The cooker circuit would be initially designed for a freestanding cooker, so should cope fine. (but check the ratings of both the hob and oven against the circuit cable and OCPD size)

So you're boiling some eggs on the hob... ok, wont be taking the full 2.4kW... but then you drop your 4 slice toaster.... and pop the kettle on..... The washing machine is on its heating cycle.....
Then someone opens the fridge door and the light comes on.... click!
 
Yeah there are isolation switches above the counter for all appliances and each circuit has an RCBO, the installation has been installed for over a year now just wondering if i've designed it poorly
so you designed the lay out and the electrics ,I might be sceptical on this post.
 
Another vote for moving hob to cooker isolator as in an emergency the person using the hob would most likely try to turn it off there.
 
Looks like a very typical kitchen rewire...cant see much wrong with any of that...

why are you so worried about the loading...?

does something keep tripping...?
 

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Too much on one circuit?
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