Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?A bit far for me.
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Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?A bit far for me.
no way.i gave the answer earlier.you need to get that chimney off.a bit of re- decor is nothing.Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?
Apologies if I came across a little arch, no offense meant really.It would be much better to correct him as that would be more appreciated.
A box cutter around the mastic and you should have that cover off fairly quickly. There may be sharp edges and exposed wires underneath, so gloves and safe isolation is the go.
Extractor fans that are vented externally normally don't come with the screw on charcoal filters. They use the aluminium filter plates (which I assume are removed and sitting on the bench) to grab the globs and they may have another replaceable filter stretched over them on the inside. Just clean the metal filter plates regularly and replace the other as necessary .Yes no filter, but its just going to extract the air to outside, think no big deal ?
Thanks for the options you mentioned. Its not only the caving issue . Part of the chimney is going through celling and thats another challenge for a bigginer like me . Please see pictures at the top of the thread .The simple and least disruptive is to do what has been advised
You could cut a section of the coving,remove,undo screws,re locate the stupid position that has been chosen for the fuse,refit cover and apply a minuscule of filler to the now unseen cut made in the coving,a touch of paint and it would be has if it had never been disturbed
If however you are set on taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut,the rear bracket could be eased out from the wall, the hood taken off as a whole (unless of course,the person who fitted the hood has done a far superior job fixing the bracket than where the fuse has been located)
Many thanks for the kind advice.Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
Many thanks for the kind advice.Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
I just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH .You were absolutely spot on . No screws on the chimny after removing cutting mastic arround the caving .Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
Run a cut round the mastic. There may be a screw on each side covered by coving, or with luck Kev has left them out and the stainless steel cover will be able to be wiggled off. The cover normally butts onto the ceiling rather than through it. Be careful, as you'll be up a ladder etc and you can't lean on that cooker hood too much . Hopefully underneath the cover will be a nice bit of ducting going up and out and the missing cable going into a switched fuse connection unit. Change the 3A fuse and reinstate. I mentioned the possibility of exposed wires just to remind that Kev may not have done a good job on that bit.
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