Discuss Advice on Cooker hood fuse access to replace in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?
no way.i gave the answer earlier.you need to get that chimney off.a bit of re- decor is nothing.
 
A box cutter around the mastic and you should have that cover off fairly quickly. There may be sharp edges and exposed wires underneath, so gloves and safe isolation is the go.
 
Yes no filter, but its just going to extract the air to outside, think no big deal ?
Extractor fans that are vented externally normally don't come with the screw on charcoal filters. They use the aluminium filter plates (which I assume are removed and sitting on the bench) to grab the globs and they may have another replaceable filter stretched over them on the inside. Just clean the metal filter plates regularly and replace the other as necessary :) .
 
The simple and least disruptive is to do what has been advised
You could cut a section of the coving,remove,undo screws,re locate the stupid position that has been chosen for the fuse,refit cover and apply a minuscule of filler to the now unseen cut made in the coving,a touch of paint and it would be has if it had never been disturbed

If however you are set on taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut,the rear bracket could be eased out from the wall, the hood taken off as a whole (unless of course,the person who fitted the hood has done a far superior job fixing the bracket than where the fuse has been located)
 
The simple and least disruptive is to do what has been advised
You could cut a section of the coving,remove,undo screws,re locate the stupid position that has been chosen for the fuse,refit cover and apply a minuscule of filler to the now unseen cut made in the coving,a touch of paint and it would be has if it had never been disturbed

If however you are set on taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut,the rear bracket could be eased out from the wall, the hood taken off as a whole (unless of course,the person who fitted the hood has done a far superior job fixing the bracket than where the fuse has been located)
Thanks for the options you mentioned. Its not only the caving issue . Part of the chimney is going through celling and thats another challenge for a bigginer like me . Please see pictures at the top of the thread .

If you cut the coving and reached the screws, then you are left with another issue on how to take chimney out since its going through the celling . If i got that right .
 
Run a cut round the mastic. There may be a screw on each side covered by coving, or with luck Kev has left them out and the stainless steel cover will be able to be wiggled off. The cover normally butts onto the ceiling rather than through it. Be careful, as you'll be up a ladder etc and you can't lean on that cooker hood too much :rolleyes: . Hopefully underneath the cover will be a nice bit of ducting going up and out and the missing cable going into a switched fuse connection unit. Change the 3A fuse and reinstate. I mentioned the possibility of exposed wires just to remind that Kev may not have done a good job on that bit.
 
Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
 
Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
Many thanks for the kind advice.

I wont lean on the hood or stand on hob.. Promise

2 questions please :
What is the best tool to use to cut the caving ?

I dont want to run into simliar senario again in the future , to cut and redecorate.
What do you thunk the best thing to do to avoid that even if i decided to install a new cooker hood . This is one about 8 years old . No cutting or decorating in the future for any simliar issue .



Do i need to replace the ducting or reposition it ?
:):):)
 
Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
Many thanks for the kind advice.

I wont lean on the hood or stand on hob.. Promise

2 questions please :
What is the best tool to use to cut the caving ?

I dont want to run into simliar senario again in the future , to cut and redecorate.
What do you thunk the best thing to do to avoid that even if i decided to install a new cooker hood . This is one about 8 years old . No cutting or decorating in the future for any simliar issue .



Do i need to replace the ducting or reposition it ?
:):):)
 
Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!
I just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH .You were absolutely spot on . No screws on the chimny after removing cutting mastic arround the caving .

I m very gratful to you for your help and advice as I manged to fix it and its now fully working order . However i m will be looking for a new one in the near future.
 
Run a cut round the mastic. There may be a screw on each side covered by coving, or with luck Kev has left them out and the stainless steel cover will be able to be wiggled off. The cover normally butts onto the ceiling rather than through it. Be careful, as you'll be up a ladder etc and you can't lean on that cooker hood too much :rolleyes: . Hopefully underneath the cover will be a nice bit of ducting going up and out and the missing cable going into a switched fuse connection unit. Change the 3A fuse and reinstate. I mentioned the possibility of exposed wires just to remind that Kev may not have done a good job on that bit.


Many many thanks for your help . I manged to fix it and its now in fully working order . Kev left it with screws just relying on mastic.

Much obliged to you for help and support you gave me on this matter .
 
Hi guys

I just thought to drop you all a line to thank you for your support and valuable advices. Its highly appreciated and i m happy to say that with your help , i manged to fix it and its working now .

I ll be looking to get a new one in tgenear future though, so feel free to advice me on a good one.

Warmest regards
 

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