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gazdkw82

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Just about to start pulling in the cables for my smile detectors, however I dint have the detectors yet. Is there enough room in the terminals to terminate a supply feed in and then loop out to the next detector or is a junction box required to house the feed and a supply taken from every J/B?
 

Midwest

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I used to put a round dry line box behind Aico alarms, otherwise the wires were exposed from the sheathing, if you get my drift.The mounting plate is quite thin.

PS I would include an isolator switch in your installation.
 

Ian1981

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I used to put a round dry line box behind Aico alarms, otherwise the wires were exposed from the sheathing, if you get my drift.
They are not exposed, there’s a cover over the cables, there’s no cables exposed once the smoke head is removed.
I think you’re thinking of the wrong manufacturer
 

telectrix

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They are not exposed, there’s a cover over the cables, there’s no cables exposed once the smoke head is removed.
think hemeant where the cables enter from the back. you need to keep the sheath stripped part quite short.
 

Ian1981

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think hemeant where the cables enter from the back. you need to keep the sheath stripped part quite short.
There’s loads of room, no issue getting cables in with the sheath entering the enclosure, absolutely no need to cut a dry liner box in the ceiling,
 

telectrix

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me neither, but you need to strip back no more than 1" of sheath. or it's difficult to get the cover on. that's probably why i find a few knocking around the bottom of my toolbelt. :)
 

Ian1981

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me neither, but you need to strip back no more than 1" of sheath. or it's difficult to get the cover on. that's probably why i find a few knocking around the bottom of my toolbelt. :)
Best smokes on the market in my opinion.
They’ve never seemed to have changed much over the years.
 

telectrix

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funny that. last week replaced a duff one. bungalow only had 2, both square. tight fisted client would only stretch to replacing the faulty one, then complains he can't obtain a square one and the new one exposes the 30 year old patch of wallpaper on the ceiling that was under the detector. still allcredit to aico for making them compatible with ancient ones.
 

Ian1981

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funny that. last week replaced a duff one. bungalow only had 2, both square. tight fisted client would only stretch to replacing the faulty one, then complains he can't obtain a square one and the new one exposes the 30 year old patch of wallpaper on the ceiling that was under the detector. still allcredit to aico for making them compatible with ancient ones.
I could never get the rectangular type smokes square haha
 

gazdkw82

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My point is, can you get x2 t+e cables terminated in it? Feed in and feed to next detector?
 

Julie.

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My point is, can you get x2 t+e cables terminated in it? Feed in and feed to next detector?
Yes, even I have managed it easily with 2×3&e.

Can't leave long tails though, just an inch or so.

Are you using twin, or three core - need the third line wire for inter-operation /linking of alarms. (Unless paying for the additional wireless option)
 

gazdkw82

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Yes, even I have managed it easily with 2×3&e.

Can't leave long tails though, just an inch or so.

Are you using twin, or three core - need the third line wire for inter-operation /linking of alarms. (Unless paying for the additional wireless option)
Sorry, I meant 3c+e
 

davesparks

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I used to put a round dry line box behind Aico alarms, otherwise the wires were exposed from the sheathing, if you get my drift.The mounting plate is quite thin.

PS I would include an isolator switch in your installation.
I prefer to fit a dry lining box behind them where possible, round or square works equally well.
You don't need to do it, and it is possible to connect them without, but it's just nicer in my opinion.
Post automatically merged:

Does everybody use 1.5mm for their dedicated smoke detector circuits?
No, I would use 1mm for a 6A smoke detector circuit, same as I do for 6A lighting circuits.

I'm sure someone will be along to say that technically the minimum should be 1.5 as its not a lighting circuit, but I'm personally satisfied that the departure is no less safe.
 
As a DIY Dave I fitted Aicos to my parents house, some time back, fed in 1.5 T&E and interlinked with 1.5 3C&E.

Tried wiring the first base when fixed to the ceiling and that wasn't a great idea, but no problem terminating otherwise. The only issue I had was that flat cables coming through a round hole might let dust into the detectors, which seemed less than ideal, so once the bases were in place a bit of intumescent sealant was used to close the small void.
 
No, I would use 1mm for a 6A smoke detector circuit, same as I do for 6A lighting circuits.

I'm sure someone will be along to say that technically the minimum should be 1.5 as its not a lighting circuit, but I'm personally satisfied that the departure is no less safe.
[/QUOTE]

Yes, same, thought I'd see how others felt about it
 
As a DIY Dave I fitted Aicos to my parents house, some time back, fed in 1.5 T&E and interlinked with 1.5 3C&E.

Tried wiring the first base when fixed to the ceiling and that wasn't a great idea, but no problem terminating otherwise. The only issue I had was that flat cables coming through a round hole might let dust into the detectors, which seemed less than ideal, so once the bases were in place a bit of intumescent sealant was used to close the small void.
Aicos best on the market every property should have them can easily fit 2 x 1.5mm in the terminals doesn’t matter if they are 1mm in my opinion though. And as for dust when they get serviced annually your meant to hoover them for that particular reason of dust ingress good point you made there 👍
 
Aicos best on the market every property should have them can easily fit 2 x 1.5mm in the terminals doesn’t matter if they are 1mm in my opinion though. And as for dust when they get serviced annually your meant to hoover them for that particular reason of dust ingress good point you made there 👍
1.5 is what gets used for lighting in NI, so I had stuck with convention. The dust issue might not ordinarily have been on my agenda, but it's a really old house with a serious build up above the ceilings that are still lath and plaster. Areas above each detector were cleaned well, but I didn't think it would take long for dust to settle again. Given the price of each unit it seemed best to aim for the full 10 years out of them!
 
1.5 is what gets used for lighting in NI, so I had stuck with convention. The dust issue might not ordinarily have been on my agenda, but it's a really old house with a serious build up above the ceilings that are still lath and plaster. Areas above each detector were cleaned well, but I didn't think it would take long for dust to settle again. Given the price of each unit it seemed best to aim for the full 10 years out of them!
Yes definitely go for the aicos also doing the expert installer course is an eye opener and I recommend it to every electrician. Even though they have 10 year lifespan they are still meant to be serviced annually
 
Yes definitely go for the aicos also doing the expert installer course is an eye opener and I recommend it to every electrician. Even though they have 10 year lifespan they are still meant to be serviced annually

Some years of work ahead before I could be elligible for an expert installer course.
 

Midwest

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They are not exposed, there’s a cover over the cables, there’s no cables exposed once the smoke head is removed.
I think you’re thinking of the wrong manufacturer
Blimey, didn’t realise my personal opinion would raise such discord.

I used Aico for quite a while and would also recommend them.

My preference of using dry line boxes behind them, came after I installed a smoke and CO2 detector in a tight for headroom loft space. After I fitted them, I could see wires slightly protruding out the back. Even after reterminating, it still didn’t look good. There I used a conduit boxes. Thereafter I started using dry liner boxes, surly that’s no big deal?

Whilst they can be terminated successfully, if the wires are kept really short, it’s not like terminating a ceiling rose, which has individual terminals. The back box, makes it an easier installation, and made me more confident the wires are properly terminated, especially with fat fingers.

Something perhaps not so controversial, as I said before, the use of Aico’s Locate and Remote Control Test Switch Surface, in an installation, is a very good idea IMO. :mask:
 
Something perhaps not so controversial, as I said before, the use of Aico’s Locate and Remote Control Test Switch Surface, in an installation, is a very good idea IMO. :mask:
I fiited an Aico test switch for my parents, to make testing easier with high ceilings. It's not something that would suit the decor of most homes, but practicality and function far outweighed form on this occasion. They've not had reason to use the locate or hush function as yet, but the test button makes it pretty easy for them to test each detector with a minimum of fuss.

One thing that didn't cross my mind was a means of isolation, which has been mentioned earlier in this thread. While I like the idea, I'm not sure how I feel about someone being able to isolate smoke detectors in the event of a fault - I'd hung the system off upstairs lighting to prevent my father doing exactly this, should a fault occur.
 

gazdkw82

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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #34
At the moment the detectors will just be fed from a dedicated circuit. To get to my consumer unit you need to move a shoe cabinet which isnt the easiest.

The only way I can see aboit preventing turning the smokes off in the event of a fault is to utilise the lighting circuit like mentioned above.
 
I thought about locations that were out of sight, but in the end it went beside the landing light switch. As they're now in their 80s it seemed prudent to allow easy access close to their bedroom.

Everything revolved around practicality in the renovations made to their home - also added two way switching in the landing for the hall light, so they wouldn't have to make extra journeys down the stairs. I figure that some day I might get old and it would be nice if the kids factored this into their thinking :D
 

Mike Johnson

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I don't understand the need for the isolator to the Aico alarms, the Lithium Battery will keep the alarm operational for four months after loosing power? unless the isolator is dual pole and its for isolation when testing?
 

happyhippydad

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Just about to start pulling in the cables for my smile detectors, however I dint have the detectors yet. Is there enough room in the terminals to terminate a supply feed in and then loop out to the next detector or is a junction box required to house the feed and a supply taken from every J/B?
We should be encouraging smiles not trying to detect and eliminate them!
 

richy3333

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Dont you evacuate the property if the fire detection lion is in fault mode, i.e 'going off'? Just use an Aico locate, test and hush unit?
 

Andy78

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Dont you evacuate the property if the fire detection lion is in fault mode, i.e 'going off'? Just use an Aico locate, test and hush unit?
I'd evacuate pretty quickly if a lion was "going off" in fault mode in the property. Firstly my bowels, then the building.
 

Midwest

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I don't understand the need for the isolator to the Aico alarms, the Lithium Battery will keep the alarm operational for four months after loosing power? unless the isolator is dual pole and its for isolation when testing?
As said, the Aico remote is to identify the alarm that activated (the other alarms are silenced); if it’s a false alarm, it can also be temporarily silenced. If that’s what you were asking?
 

Mike Johnson

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Bit of cross purpose I think, others where talking about isolation of the alarm, what I was addressing is that alarms should not be able to be isolated, the remote is an entirely different thing, it has been mentioned that one guy did not put the supply into the lighting circuit to prevent his father from turning if off, think it was "nicebutdim".
 

davesparks

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[E]
I don't understand the need for the isolator to the Aico alarms, the Lithium Battery will keep the alarm operational for four months after loosing power? unless the isolator is dual pole and its for isolation when testing?
The point of an isolator is to allow the isolation of the equipment for maintainence and repair.
 
Bit of cross purpose I think, others where talking about isolation of the alarm, what I was addressing is that alarms should not be able to be isolated, the remote is an entirely different thing, it has been mentioned that one guy did not put the supply into the lighting circuit to prevent his father from turning if off, think it was "nicebutdim".
I did the opposite as it was easy to envision my father turning off the circuit if there was a fault and never bothering to do anything further about it.

The idea of an isolation switch was something I'd been curious about after it had been mentioned earlier in the thread. I see subsequent posts clarified this being for maintenence etc, but with a total of 6 heads I just removed them and wago'd past the test switch for IR testing.
 

FatAlan

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My point is, can you get x2 t+e cables terminated in it? Feed in and feed to next detector?
Yes. To make it easier I’ve used a couple of small cable ties around the outer sheath of the feed in and out to hold them together, which makes it easier when terminating the two conductors.
 

Mike Johnson

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Anyone need a couple of Ei100MRF RadioLink+Module's I don't think I will have any use for them in the future?

I also have a 300 series smoke alarm with RadioLink if anyone is interested?
 
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Mike Johnson

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Installed six Aico Radio link alarms over the last couple of days and got them all talking to each other and the switch is showing the seven flashing lights, next thing is the Appolo CH radio link oil tank alarm goes off and shows a fault that says its over full, obviously interference cross talking to each other, nice to know the Aico alarms are the most robust and still work, but need to move the switch to another place to stop the cross communication.
 
02.00 this morning and I woke half way through the bedroom door to the sound of smoke alarms all sounding. 2nd time it has happened with the Firex units fitted in this house (middle of the night both times) and on different heads each time. No idea of the cause - obviously no smoke or heat and I can't see it being dust as they get lightly vacuumed each month in a fairly recently built house.

Disconnecting the head and removing the back up alkaline battery for a few minutes clears the issue and shows a green light, but I'm not sure they'll be here long enough for a 3rd false alarm...
 

Midwest

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02.00 this morning and I woke half way through the bedroom door to the sound of smoke alarms all sounding. 2nd time it has happened with the Firex units fitted in this house (middle of the night both times) and on different heads each time. No idea of the cause - obviously no smoke or heat and I can't see it being dust as they get lightly vacuumed each month in a fairly recently built house.

Disconnecting the head and removing the back up alkaline battery for a few minutes clears the issue and shows a green light, but I'm not sure they'll be here long enough for a 3rd false alarm...
I'm constantly get call outs from where I work, for false activation of domestic alarms. Think its down to the cheapo alarms and thunder flies. Although once, when I was inspecting the head, an ordinary fly fell out of it.
 
I'm constantly get call outs from where I work, for false activation of domestic alarms. Think its down to the cheapo alarms and thunder flies. Although once, when I was inspecting the head, an ordinary fly fell out of it.
I was expecting to find some residual dust, but everything was spotless.

One other issue I need to address came to mind as this thread started over termination space in Aicos. The Firex bases are considerably deeper, but seem to rely on connector blocks for termination - a couple of our heads don't sit flush because those terminations foul Firex's plug in connector. I don't feel like spending a few hundred replacing these alarms right now, but really don't see them staying here for their 10 year lifespan.
 

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