Anyone know how this is removed?

[Raptor0014]

I need to replace a normal isolator with a switched fused isolator.

However the meter has some form of shroud between it and the cutout that I can’t see any way of removing without damaging it.

Anyone know how it’s removed? I’ve got permission from DNO to pull the cutout. But if I need them to come out to remove this then it’s £76 + VAT for what will likely be a 30 sec job!

 

[snowhead]

It's either trapped by the meter connection cover or the Cutout fuse or both.
You probably need the cutout fuse out and remove the cover below it.

 

[SparkyChick]

That's a security cable set to prevent tampering. The only way to remove it is to replace it with tails. You need full access to the service head and the meter terminals and you'll probably have to dismount the meter.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Ring this number 999, and ask for the fairy Tails openers, will be with 1 hour and don't show your teeth they might pull them out has well.

 

[James]

one of these?

 

[Raptor0014]

one of these?

View attachment 99672

I was tempted to use my insulated one and try and gently prize it off.

 

[Raptor0014]

That's a security cable set to prevent tampering. The only way to remove it is to replace it with tails. You need full access to the service head and the meter terminals and you'll probably have to dismount the meter.

I can foresee a Henley block being deployed!

 

[timhoward]

I take it you need longer tails for your new switched fuse isolator? You can't just put a double pole henley block where the current isolator is?

I've removed one before - from memory both sets of tails feed through it, the incoming meter tails are cut exactly to length, and the meter is mounted on top of it.
So entire process needs reversing as @SparkyChick said. Pull main fuse. Remove meter cover. Loosen all four. Remove meter.
Two outgoing tails can be eased out. Cover then slides up.

I'm working in Shrewsbury tomorrow afternoon - if I hear a bang I'll know the plan didn't work!!

 

[Raptor0014]

I take it you need longer tails for your new switched fuse isolator? You can't just put a double pole henley block where the current isolator is?

I've removed one before - from memory both sets of tails feed through it, the incoming meter tails are cut exactly to length, and the meter is mounted on top of it.
So entire process needs reversing as @SparkyChick said. Pull main fuse. Remove meter cover. Loosen all four. Remove meter.
Two outgoing tails can be eased out. Cover then slides up.

I'm working in Shrewsbury tomorrow afternoon - if I hear a bang I'll know the plan didn't work!!

It will have to be a bloody big bang as this is in the sticks outside Newtown.

Yes I don’t think I’ll get the Henley and the SFI in place without adjusting the tails length. Annoyingly the SFI takes the feed in the bottom. If it could take the supply in the top it would be an easy swap.

Or I could do a ‘reet gud job’ and fit the SFI upside down….

 

[Raptor0014]

Before

After

Decided against faffing about with the service head and meter.

It’s 25mm SWA incase anyone is wondering why the apparent reduction in conductor size. This is literally all I could do without ripping it all out (inc about 5m of 25mm SWA which is buried in the building fabric and would never come out ) and running in a new supply to better terminate it into another enclosure. There is zero slack on that SWA.

 

[DefyG]

Agreed It looks tight, but looks just enough to properly gland swa and ensure swa is correctly bonded/earthed!

Not sure I would be happy leaving the singularly insulated exposed conductors like that though.

 

[Raptor0014]

Agreed It looks tight, but looks just enough to properly gland swa and ensure swa is correctly bonded/earthed!

Not sure I would be happy leaving the singularly insulated exposed conductors like that though.

Personally I don’t like it myself and it’s not how I would do it if doing from scratch. But there was no other real option.

You can’t gland the SWA. There is zero slack. It’s got no room to move. It goes out the hole in the bottom and into the building.

So without removing the service head, meter and meter box I’d never get in to gland it.

As the SWA does not go below about 1.5m above the ground and is encased in the fabric of the building all the way to the CU. Then I’m content it’s safe.

I spoke to my CPS tech helpline about it. They said that because the cabinet has to be accessed with a tool then it can be classed as an enclosure. Apart from sticking a Tupperware tub over the whole thing. I’m not sure how else I could enclose the insulation and allow it to run to the Henley blocks.

I could possibly stick some flexicon over each strand. But that would be about it and it’s not required.

It’s noted on the EIC as to why it’s been installed that way so it’s all above board.

 

[littlespark]

So you managed to get the door back on, and clean out the box.

 

[SparkyChick]

I would probably have pulled it back and extended it in a Wiska 407 or 607 (use the Wiska earth bars and some 25mm uninsulated butt crimps - double layer of heatshrink - black with a coloured layer on top). And from there, into a galvanised adaptable box with a tails gland and then butt crimp some tails on the end and dispense with the service terminal blocks, 16mm earth bond to the box.

I think the advice from your CPS about it being an enclosure is poor given someone who may not be electrically skilled will have to open the box to read the meter.

Just looking at the pictures again... there may have been enough on the end to mount the galv box diagonally... the armouring is there so it may have been enough. And whilst somewhat unorthodox in terms of the angles involved, I would say that would be preferable to the single insulated conductors.

 

[Raptor0014]

So you managed to get the door back on, and clean out the box.

Yep. The door is held in by two easily removable pins.

The door wasn’t the problem. It was the location of the cable and how much slack there was.

 

[James]

Agreed, sometimes you just cant do the job you would like to do and it ends up like that.
I agree that technically its in an enclosure requiring a key and therefore single insulation is acceptable its just that most of us don't like it.

I presume the consumer unit end of the swa is properly glanded and the armour is earthed at that end? again, not the way most of us would like to do it but it is compliant unless you want to use the proper materials and workmanship regulation.

 

[Raptor0014]

I would probably have pulled it back and extended it in a Wiska 407 or 607 (use the Wiska earth bars and some 25mm uninsulated butt crimps - double layer of heatshrink - black with a coloured layer on top). And from there, into a galvanised adaptable box with a tails gland and then butt crimp some tails on the end and dispense with the service terminal blocks, 16mm earth bond to the box.

I think the advice from your CPS about it being an enclosure is poor given someone who may not be electrically skilled will have to open the box to read the meter.

Guess you missed the bit where I said it goes out the bottom of the box straight into the building. So not sure how you think you’re manoeuvring about 4” of 25mm SWA to then extend.

A wiska box is rated at max of 57a and I think 407/607 is 40a. So that wouldn’t work, it’s an 80a supply.

Someone who isn’t electrically skilled can also remove the front off a socket. And this often happens far more in DIY than someone opening the cabinet to read the meter and deciding to play with some cables whilst they’re at it.

 

[Raptor0014]

Agreed, sometimes you just cant do the job you would like to do and it ends up like that.
I agree that technically its in an enclosure requiring a key and therefore single insulation is acceptable its just that most of us don't like it.

I presume the consumer unit end of the swa is properly glanded and the armour is earthed at that end? again, not the way most of us would like to do it but it is compliant unless you want to use the proper materials and workmanship regulation.

Yes the other end is glanded properly and also earthed as I did that today when I replaced the CU. I even used a fancy SWA storm gland. Only because I find them a lot nicer to use than the traditional glands. Even if they are ridiculously expensive.

 

[Raptor0014]

Just looking at the pictures again... there may have been enough on the end to mount the galv box diagonally... the armouring is there so it may have been enough. And whilst somewhat unorthodox in terms of the angles involved, I would say that would be preferable to the single insulated conductors.

There is about 1.5-2" of SWA inside the hole. So unless you cut an even bigger hole out the bottom of the cabinet the cable isn't moving. Even mounting on an angle would induce stress on the SWA gland to the box. And it would foul the bottom of the service head if you could manage to get it in.

I spent a good 30 mins or so today weighing up various options. Wiska box I discounted straight away as the amp rating isn't sufficient and I carry various ones including 407 & 607 on the van. I even had one of these 100A SP&N Fused Switch c/w 63A 80A & 100A fuses | Lewden (FS6380100) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGFS100.html metal clad SFI, but couldn't fit it in and safely gland the SWA into it.

So this was the most sensible and practical solution without going to the extreme.

 

[pc1966]

I’m not sure how else I could enclose the insulation and allow it to run to the Henley blocks.

While probably not required due to the tool-opening nature, heatshrink sleeving is another option, just be careful not to over-do the heat! Or sometimes just PVC sleeving.