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Hello, Please can I have some feedback on the quality of a fuse board I installed recently. I am fairly new to consumer unit installs. Newly qualified. upload_2019-4-27_8-30-10.png
 
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Looks very good
 

Midwest

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Does look good, be prepared to be ripped apart though :)

Have you used ferrules on your RCBO fly leads?
 

telectrix

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only thing i can fault is the bunch of cables coming in top left.some vertical plastic trunking would look better. otherwise a very neat job.
 

Lucien Nunes

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What is the deal on that big bunch of T+E exiting to the left? Have any applicable grouping factors been applied to the cables or is that not how they will be on the day? In an installation like this it is usually impossible to load them all heavily due to the limited total supply, but if some are run near their limit this can overcook them a little.

You've got nice long service loops on the L & N, not sure whether there is the same on the CPCs. I always like to make sure there are a few inches spare for re-termination by taking them across the board and back or around in a curve.

Can't see the armoured termination which is often a variable in an otherwise good install.

I know few people do this on a domestic install but I always number the cables with the appropriate DB way, to avoid frustration if multiple cables are taken out duing an EICR.

But yes, generally pretty smart.
 
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Looks like the SWA is a 4 or 5 core.
Yes that is true the bottom main switch is for the off peak supply feeding storage heater and immersion
 
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only thing i can fault is the bunch of cables coming in top left.some vertical plastic trunking would look better. otherwise a very neat job.
We are installing 200 of these board in a council estate. The cables on the left are being boarded .upload_2019-4-27_9-14-0.png
 

Lucien Nunes

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If the flylead is fine-stranded and has been cut and terminated in a terminal that is not designed for fine-stranded cable, then that is a genuine defect in the work. Bring your own ferrules or leave the full length of the flylead so you can terminate using the original crimped / spotwelded end.
 
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If the flylead is fine-stranded and has been cut and terminated in a terminal that is not designed for fine-stranded cable, then that is a genuine defect in the work. Bring your own ferrules or leave the full length of the flylead so you can terminate using the original crimped / spotwelded end.
Thanks for your reply I agree with what you are saying. I have previously uploaded a past board from this job and received the same feedback. My foreman is refusing to purchase ferrules does not think they are needed.
 

Baddegg

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Don’t fret, neatness comes with experience :tearsofjoy:
 

Midwest

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I'm presuming you only need to add ferrules if you shorten the lead, or do you guys add them anyway?
They don't look like they have them, so guess they've been shortened.

Edit, op's replies just bee added. :)
 
Nice job

Why is there a piece of cardboard wedged down the back of the consumer unit ? Packing to get level ?
 

Wilko

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Good on you for asking :) .
Re the bottom row - out of habit I put the isolator on the end. As you've shortened the RCBO N lead, these can't easily be moved now. And yes, if you are going to shorten that N lead it needs to be ferruled. If there's room (seems plenty here) I would use the RCBO as they're supplied.
 

baldelectrician

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The only thing that looks a bit suspect is the fact that they are Proteus.
 

dksanders

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Nice looking job, good to see when someone takes pride in the end result. Agree with all the other comments and will add; don't forget to fill those gaping cable entry holes (the top one's going to be a bitch) with intumescent seal or equivalent fire stop especially as the unit is mounted on a wooden backboard.
 

dksanders

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Can't be arsed with arguing, but where does that **** come from? :)
17th Edition Amendment 3, 421.1.201 (ii)
states that consumer units shall be enclosed ...etc.

You can hardly call the CU enclosed if there's a gapping big hole in the back, especially as it's pointing at an easily combustable material such as wood.

The intent of that reg is to ensure the fire containment of the enclosure is maintained, which it isn't with a big hole in the back facing wood. It would be fine if it was mounted on a non-combustable wall, but it's not.

Think about it, what's the point of having metal enclosures, metal self closing doors over the mcbs, having to fit non combustable blanks, all designed to keep a fire within the CU, then a big hole that a fire can escape out the back of?

A couple of intumescent pillows stuffed in the holes will suffice.
 

Midwest

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17th Edition Amendment 3, 421.1.201 (ii)
states that consumer units shall be enclosed ...etc.

You can hardly call the CU enclosed if there's a gapping big hole in the back, especially as it's pointing at an easily combustable material such as wood.

The intent of that reg is to ensure the fire containment of the enclosure is maintained, which it isn't with a big hole in the back facing wood. It would be fine if it was mounted on a non-combustable wall, but it's not.

Think about it, what's the point of having metal enclosures, metal self closing doors over the mcbs, having to fit non combustable blanks, all designed to keep a fire within the CU, then a big hole that a fire can escape out the back of?

A couple of intumescent pillows stuffed in the holes will suffice.
I'm freshly back. :)

Reg 421.1.201, item (ii) refers to using a enclosure made from combustible material to be installed in a cabinet or enclosure made from non combustible material, i.e. comply with (i) or (ii).

MythBreakers videos - https://www.hager.co.uk/news-exhibitions-case-studies/news/amendment-3-to-bs-7671-2008/mythbreakers/56067.htm?mainvideoid=6dnZNI0bzRk

Unless they have changed the reg again in the 18th (I only have the BYB), there is no requirement to use intumescent seals in a CU made from non combustible material, only to maintain the IP ratings as per reg 416.2.1 (BYB). I don't believe the back of a CU requires this rating, although if someone could access the back, it would make common sense to maintain a similar IP rating.
 
S

Squid

Does look good, be prepared to be ripped apart though :)
The breakers are leaning slightly to the right ;o))))
 
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