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Discuss Electricity meters E10 to E7 in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi all, please help ! Sorry if posted in the wrong section but I am new to this forum....At the moment we are on an economy 10 complex meter that has two MPAN numbers for our electricity, what I would like to know is how hard would it be to change over to an economy 7 meter . I have been told we will need to rewire our fuse board to make this work, is this true ? As you can tell I’m not very savvy with the way the electricity meters work.
Thanks in advance
Marc
 
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D

Deleted member 26818

There is no need to change meters to change from E10 to E7.
Both E10 and E7 allow cheap rate electricity to be used from Midnight to 7am.
E10 allows the electricity supplier to provide an extra 3 hours during the evening 7pm to Midnight, as and when the supplier deems the cost of the electricity to be the cheapest.

To switch from E10 to E7, all the supplier has to do, is stop switching on the cheap rate electricity during the hours before Midnight.
 
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Hi when I spoke with the electricity board they said because I have two MPAN number I will need to disconnect one and wire it into the other or I will be charged two standing charges, does this make sense? My heating and hot water cylinder seem to be on their own circuit with their own side of the fuse board and the rest of the electrics on the other side of the fuse board. Hopefully one of you will understand this as I don’t have a clue and the electricity companies are useless in their assistance with this.
Marc
 
D

Deleted member 26818

You would only need to change meters and rewire, if you went from E10/E7 to normal tariff.
As I said before, E10 and E7 are essentially the same, it’s just that you don’t get the extra 3 hours at cheap rate.
If they’re charging you for two meters on E10, they’ll do the same for E7.
If you were to go to normal tariff, you would need to supply and install a Henly junction box, so both of the Lives going to the Fuse boxes can be joined together, and a length of cable from the junction box that the meter installer can use to connect to the new meter.

If you look at your meter, you should see 5 thick wires connected.
The two on the left are the incoming supply.
The next two are the two lives one to each fuse box.
The one on the right should go to a Henly junction box with two wires one to each fuse box.
You need to replicate what has been done to the wire on the right with the two live wires.
 
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So if I sound thick but can’t I just join the two fuse boards together and still have economy 7 by putting timers on the heaters and water cylinder for when the cheap rate kicks in.
 
D

Deleted member 26818

It depends on how your tariff works.
If the E7 is just for heating then the supplier will want separate meters or a dual tariff meter (which you already have) so that your normal electrical use is at the normal tariff.

If however your supplier is willing to provide all your electricity at a cheaper rate, then yes you could use timers to control heaters and your water cylinder.

Because heaters take quite a high initial load when first switched on, the timers would have to be quite robust which might prove expensive.
It may be cheaper and easier to install a time switch between the Henly connector block and the heater fuse box.
 
You don't need to rewire anything on your (domestic) end. If you change tariffs, and you have a smart meter, they can reprogram it remotely depending on your supplier. If it’s not a smart (classic meter) we normally change the meter, as each classic has its own tariff already programmed. If need be, a contactor can be installed to allow switching between your fuseboards.

With two MPAN’s, we normally remove one of them and make it a simpler system. “Heatwise”tariffs which have 3 readings are usually done this way.

At least, that’s how my lot do it.
 
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You don't need to rewire anything on your (domestic) end. If you change tariffs, and you have a smart meter, they can reprogram it remotely depending on your supplier. If it’s not a smart (classic meter) we normally change the meter, as each classic has its own tariff already programmed. If need be, a contactor can be installed to allow switching between your fuseboards.

With two MPAN’s, we normally remove one of them and make it a simpler system. “Heatwise”tariffs which have 3 readings are usually done this way.

At least, that’s how my lot do it.
Can you tell me who your lot are as I can ask them in to price the work for me, as every electrician I ask round here doesn’t understand what the need to do to fix our problem.
 
You won’t be able to get them in unless you're already with them as a customer. Which energy provider are you with? Some of the smaller companies probably don’t have assets to put on the wall, or even staff to come and fit them.
 
They should be able to exchange the meter for a newer one with an electronic display. Nearly all the meters are more or less the same between providers. If you have a very old meter with a time switch attached to it, they should remove it all as all the switching is done inside the meter.

They might offer a smart meter, but you don't have to have one. They may also look at the account history for usage so they can see whether it’s a better tariff for you, and ask questions about whether you have storage heaters, immersion tank etc.
 
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The meter we have is digital, you push the button three times to get the night, day and Heat readings, thanks all for the advice.
 
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