flashing led

jane1961 · Sep 23, 2012

I have replaced 7 12v 50w halogen downlights, (removing transformers) and replaced with GU6WW downlights. The new GU10 base lamps have built in drivers so I don't believe I need extra resistance on the circuit. They were fine - but have now started flashing, all at once. An interesting one second slow strobe effect but not ideal in the kitchen.

Every now and then they stay on for three or four seconds but a slight clicking can be heard from the fuse board. I have shut the circuit off.

I had the original downlights fitted by a qualified electrician but found several had burnt out wiring when I removed them. The wholesaler explained I could simply replace them with the new LEDs and have done with the expensive to run so called cool fit halogens.

Can anyone suggest a solution to the flashing 5.4w LEDs?

Rockingit · Sep 23, 2012

Two things immediately occur:

1) loose connection somewhere
2) are they on a dimmer by chance?

dcelectrical · Sep 23, 2012

last time i had a clicking fuseboard it was the live side of the mcb, a person of experience and knowledge had put all the mcbs in without undoing the screws and they were all just resting on the busbar, also could imagine dimmer or misconnection at the three plate ceiling rose perm live and switch live, from memory

bigspark17 · Sep 23, 2012

i had a call out to some1 who had changed 50w gu10 halogen lamps to new 4w leds when the swich was turned to off position all lights flashed but worked fine when switch in on position.. some numpty had put the neutrals into the switch..!!!! so lights were flashing due to lost N.. why do these diy'ers bother then deny any knowladge of who changed the switch lol.!!!!!

jane1961 · Sep 23, 2012

They were on a dimmer. Presumably that switch will need to be replaced.

Rockingit said:
Two things immediately occur:

1) loose connection somewhere
2) are they on a dimmer by chance?

Rockingit · Sep 23, 2012

jane1961 said:
They were on a dimmer. Presumably that switch will need to be replaced.

yep! You either need dimmable led's or dimmable led's AND the right type of dimmer switch!

If you don't have the dimmable type (as we now assume), then you'd be needing to swap your dimmer switch for an ordinary one. Pay more than £2 for one and you've been robbed. I only say this as it's far cheaper than re-buying all your lights.

BUT.....don't fall foul of the usual problem with a DIY swap - make a note of which colour wire goes to C, L1 & L2 (might only be L1) before you start unscrewing things!!! You seem intelligent enough to not need telling to turn the power off first!

1shortcircuit · Sep 23, 2012

BUT.....don't fall foul of the usual problem with a DIY swap - make a note of which colour wire goes to C, L1 & L2 (might only be L1) before you start unscrewing things!!! You seem intelligent enough to not need telling to turn the power off first!

In some situations I find it useful to take a photo to refer back to IF required. Sounds daft but when it gets complicated it's nice to see how it was wired in the first place. Sometimes it's easy to miss a blatant mistake or difference which can send you round in circles wondering what on earth is going on lol

As Rockingit has mentioned, there may be a difference in switch markings. Some use C, L1 and L2. Other types may have C and L1 and others may use L1, L2, L3,

Good luck, please let us know how you get on:thumbsup

Geordie Spark · Sep 24, 2012

I really must go to Specsavers ........ I thought the title of this thread was Flashing Lad :glasses2: :shame: :redface:

jane1961 · Sep 24, 2012

thanks. It is one thing to turn power off, cut out transformer and reconnect to new bulbs, quite another to replace a dimmable switch which is also connected to an outdoor 150watt light. Time, I feel to pay for an electrician. The bit I did was labour intensive but unskilled so I haven't wasted my time.