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Is it really that difficult, if there is a dedicated 32amp cooker circuit to a cut out, surely two 13amp sockets off that circuit will solve the problem?
 
Is it really that difficult, if there is a dedicated 32amp cooker circuit to a cut out, surely two 13amp sockets off that circuit will solve the problem?
Thankyou, hope it's as easy as that, though the electrician is insisting the double socket the 2 ovens are plugged into is fine. Everyone else says it's not and 2 separate single sockets are required. I understand why. Anyway I'm going to get a different electrician in for a second opinion as there are other potential issues that have also cropped up through this post.
 
The double socket is not fine, and the metal box it is fitted to is not fine.
I'm convinced that this is a 32A radial circuit, not a 32A RFC, so that is fine.
If the cable going to the socket is 4mm2 and not 2.5mm2, that is fine. The most obvious difference between the two is that the brown and blue in 2.5mm2 are each single copper wires, whereas in 4mm2 they are each made up of several thinner copper wires. If it's 2.5mm2 it needs replacing.
If the cable is suitable, replacing the double socket with two single sockets, mounted onto two 1G surface boxes or one dual surface box will sort the oven connection side of things,
The surface box or boxes should be screwed onto a piece of board, and the cable going into them secured with at least a couple of cable clips.
That brings us on to the round junction box. Was it there before, or did he fit it? It's not he most dangerous thing I've ever seen, but if it is newly fitted, then it is not satisfactory, because there's no provision of strain relief for the cables and needs to be upgraded.
I can't make out if one of the cables is a flex or not? If one is, then this type of junction box is not suitable.
There are junction boxes available that incorporate both cable clamping arrangements and terminals that are suitable for joining solid and flexible wires.
 
Is it really that difficult, if there is a dedicated 32amp cooker circuit to a cut out, surely two 13amp sockets off that circuit will solve the problem?
Should have said "two separate dedicated circuits at 13amp off the 32amp cooker circuit" and of course sorting out the back and junction box.
 
Hello everyone, I'm a new homeowner member and would be really grateful for some advice as I know virtually nothing about electrics. My question/worry involves two single ovens I've just had fitted that the electrician has plugged into a double socket. There is also an isolation switch fitted in the cupboard. I have read that a double socket is good for 20 amps, these two ovens are 2.85kw each and are fitted with 13 amp plugs. Doesn't this add up to 26 amps being used if both ovens are on at the same time? Isn't that a potential fire hazard? Previously in the same place was a slot in double oven cooker wired in with a thick cable. I have also had an induction hob fitted and that has been wired in. I have mentioned my worries to the electrician who tried to explain things to me (went over my head) and ultimately said a double socket is fine. But I'm still unsure and it's niggling me.View attachment 63687 I've attached a photo. Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou

UPDATE!! 13th January
A very big thankyou to everyone. Your advice and suggestions led me to call in another electrician today for a second opinion. As well as the things you highlighted as being wrong, he also picked up on other dangerous issues that weren't visible in the photo e.g. to do with different sized cables being joined, an old joint box being used, amongst other things. He is now going to re do everything as per good practice/current regs - starting by adding another cable from the consumer unit (sorry, probably not the right words) so that if I ever want to I can have both ovens on full pelt and use all the rings on the hob at the same time without blowing the house up... or outcomes to that effect.
So, again gentlemen, thankyou for your patience and guidance, it really is much appreciated ?
 
Gas hob or electric hob? I thought I saw some reference to a igniter (for a gas hob) earlier in the thread.
If it is an electric hob, a 32A circuit is definitely overloaded, and at least one of the ovens needs its own dedicated supply from the CU, or the whole lot needs upgrading to a 40A or more circuit. Sounds like your new sparky might know what he's doing.
 
Gas hob or electric hob? I thought I saw some reference to a igniter (for a gas hob) earlier in the thread.
If it is an electric hob, a 32A circuit is definitely overloaded, and at least one of the ovens needs its own dedicated supply from the CU, or the whole lot needs upgrading to a 40A or more circuit. Sounds like your new sparky might know what he's doing.
Yes it's an electric hob. I feel relieved that the new electrician is putting in another supply. ?
 
Is this an induction hob, as they need a substantial supply compared to a halogen hob, make sure the wattage rating of the hob and cable match.
 
And that would be shown by the wattage rating of the hob as I said above plus these are in the main the induction hobs that have a 13amp plug fitted they are also normally a replacement hob for a halogen or similar hob and a compromise, a normal induction hob has a rating that will require a dedicated circuit, in fact the one I have runs off two phase's of a three phase supply.
 

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