Kitchen island power requirement change

[mattleese1988@]

cant you just change the 45A isolator switch to one with an additional single socket on the unit and plug the quorker tap into that??

I asked this is we used to have that type of switch before in old kitchen. But suggested splitting the radial

 

[Welchyboy1]

I asked this is we used to have that type of switch before in old kitchen. But suggested splitting the radial

Sounds like making a simple job hard work to me! why would you do that?

 

[Simon47]

What Welchyboy1 said
The Quooker is only 1.6 or 2.9 (if you get the big one) kW and the instructions say to use a 13A socket.

If you can't just change to a switch with a socket, then just add a single socket as a branch of the radial - it does NOT need to be 10mm cable. Assuming it's only short, then it actually only needs to be 1.5mm to feed a single socket - as the plug is fused, the cable feeding the socket is protected by this fuse and the regs allow for the cable to be smaller than would otherwise be needed for the upstream MCB rating. The biggest problem will be terminating it alongside a 10mm cable into the terminals in the JB.

 

[mattleese1988@]

I'm going to suggest this as the double back box is already in place for the current switch... swap the switch over and Just have to drill a hole for the flex and then put a plug on

 

[Welchyboy1]

I'm going to suggest this as the double back box is already in place for the current switch... swap the switch over and Just have to drill a hole for the flex and then put a plug on

I would insist on it

twin and earth and Henley blocks.........mmmm

 

[mattleese1988@]

I'm going to suggest this as the double back box is already in place for the current switch... swap the switch over and Just have to drill a hole for the flex and then put a plug on

Could he just not come of the 60a terminal block with 2.5mm to a fused spur or single socket ? Looking at the cable would only be half a meter long ?

 

[mattleese1988@]

Could he just not come of the 60a terminal block with 2.5mm to a fused spur or single socket ? Looking at the cable would only be half a meter long ?

I did ask this and he insisted it needs to be 10mm to the socket or spur and this is the cable feeding the island that's when blocks or din terminals was mentioned to split the 10mm into 2. But the switch with socket sounds like this is what I need.

 

[Simon47]

I did ask this and he insisted it needs to be 10mm to the socket or spur and this is the cable feeding the island that's when blocks or din terminals was mentioned to split the 10mm into 2.

Go and find yourself an electrician ;-)
The person you have consulted may call himself that, but he doesn't know what he's talking about.
That's about as polite as I can put it !

 

[mattleese1988@]

Go and find yourself an electrician ;-)
The person you have consulted may call himself that, but he doesn't know what he's talking about.
That's about as polite as I can put it !

I'm going to get someone else to have a look me thinks, I have just spent the last few hours looking through regs and other questions people have been asking regarding similar situations.

As far as I can see taking a spur from the 10mm would be fine providing it has rcd protection, not excessively long and providing the cable has no risk to damage which it hasn't it will be inside the center of the island.

If the tap was to have a fault then the fuse in FSU or plug would protect the cable am I correct ?

By the way the tap is 1.6 kw.

 

[Welchyboy1]

If you upgrade the mcb to 50A(like you previously mentioned), overload protection would be satisfied with a fixed/fused load but maybe fault protection of the cable would come Into play regarding the size of cabling you use between the 10mm and the spur?

what would be the minimum size that could be used?(I’m not sure just hypothesizing)

'no risk of damage' is a bold statement in this game with the muppets that are working in and around it lol!