Discuss sheathed singles and earth in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

B

BES

Anybody use sheathed singles and earth for domestic anymore got given 100m of brand new brown and blue 1.5s both with cpcs. Used it on board change for when you have a borrowed neutral on landing and run a neutral from new cu.
Though about using it domesticly for 2 plate wiring for outside lights eg line and cpc to switch and neutral and cpc direct to light intead of looping in at switch or jb.
 
Used it almost all the time during my house bashing days in the 1970s, live to all the switches, neutral to all the lights and a switch wire between, simples
 
Used it almost all the time during my house bashing days in the 1970s, live to all the switches, neutral to all the lights and a switch wire between, simples
Yeh seen it lots of times especially as you said on houses built in 70s. Just seems bit of old way to do things but thinking about it for outside lights and wall lights with seperate switch can't see a problem as long as all run in safe zones.
 
Beats me why it isn’t used more.

I’ve not done a domestic install since the 15[SUP]th[/SUP], I didn’t use a lot of S+E but it was handy to have. I was a fussy bugger, landing and hall lights were both two plate with no shared neutral or any connectors in switches. That’s when S+E came in to its own.


The problem with things not being used on a regular basis is the wholesalers turn around with the old “there’s no call for it” and wanting a small fortune.
 
Cheers Tony
Had a small reel for solving borrowed neutral problem . Got these two reels from a guy i know who bought a job lot of cable from small wholesalers that went under and he had no call for it so i had it. More I think about it will ok for wiring wall lights switched outside lights etc save looping in at switches or using jbs even better that neutral has cpc.
 
Don't forget we have a regulation in the glorious 17th that recommends we consider proving a neutral at all switch locations, just in case someone wants to waste their money on some over complicated electronic switching nonsense.
 
Don't forget we have a regulation in the glorious 17th that recommends we consider proving a neutral at all switch locations, just in case someone wants to waste their money on some over complicated electronic switching nonsense.
What reg is that dave. What about the vast majority of lighting circuts that are 3 plate looped in at ceiling rose with just a sw feed and return at switch.
 
So since the 17th all lighting is looped in at switches ? If so I've been installing domestic lighting circuits against the regs since 2008.
 
Where have you got that from? I said:

"
Don't forget we have a regulation in the glorious 17th that recommends we consider proving a neutral at all switch locations, just in case someone wants to waste their money on some over complicated electronic switching nonsense."Now how on earth have you read that as saying you MUST do something?

Regulation 559.6.1.100:
"Consideration should be given to the provision of the neutral conductor, at each switch position , to facilitate the installation of electronic switching devices."

It does not say you must wire using a method of looping in at the switches, and it also doesn't limi it to domestic.
 
The neutral at switches is only a consideration and has only been in place since AMD 1.
559.6.1.100 Consideration shall be given to the provision of the neutral conductor, at each switch position, to facilitate
the installation of electronic switching devices.
 
I can see your point, but in this case it's not actually a recommendation, that was just my words earlier in the thread.

The actual regulation requires that we consider the provision of a neutral.

Not much better admittedly but a blanket requirement for neutrals at a switch would be pointless. This way you can look at it and decide how likely it is that a fancy electronic switch requiring a neutral will be fitted at some time.

It all sounds like a pile of nonsense to me though. Keep the fancy electronics for toys and leave the lights on a proper switch, least chance of failure and easiest to fix.

I'm of the same opinion with these damned fool programmable room thermostats, a good old fashioned mechanical stat will keep working for years without problem.
 
It really annoys me that a “recommendation” is given a number so it can be misinterpreted (as per usual) as a requirement.


Yep, and i've seen the amount of cables that can end up in a switch back box when a switch ''loop- in'' system has been installed. Bloody crazy!! As far as i'm concerned if a neutral is required at a switch point, (eg, ...for outside light etc) ...Fine!! If not, keep the neutrals out of switches!!
 
It all sounds like a pile of nonsense to me though. Keep the fancy electronics for toys and leave the lights on a proper switch, least chance of failure and easiest to fix.

I'm of the same opinion with these damned fool programmable room thermostats, a good old fashioned mechanical stat will keep working for years without problem.

Lol..I'm just doing a fancy expensive barn conversion at the moment where all the lighting switch cabling is CAT5 running proprietary RS232 data bus back to centralised dimming, then using 12c multi out to the various circuits in order to keep the cable down!

It's the future, and you know it!
 
It all sounds like a pile of nonsense to me though. Keep the fancy electronics for toys and leave the lights on a proper switch, least chance of failure and easiest to fix.

I'm of the same opinion with these damned fool programmable room thermostats, a good old fashioned mechanical stat will keep working for years without problem.

Lol..I'm just doing a fancy expensive barn conversion at the moment where all the lighting switch cabling is CAT5 running proprietary RS232 data bus back to centralised dimming, then using 12c multi out to the various circuits in order to keep the cable down!

It's the future, and you know it!

Which system are you using for this? I've always used niko but there are alternatives and I know the prices are starting to come down now, I think more and more people will start looking at control systems as a viable option
 
Which system are you using for this? I've always used niko but there are alternatives and I know the prices are starting to come down now, I think more and more people will start looking at control systems as a viable option

Anytronics - 16 x 2A dimming/switch for £800. Bargain!
 

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