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Hi All. New member.

I have a perplexing issue which I am hoping someone might be able to help with.

I have two suspension lights which are installed. Both are relatively high-end LED. I have linked both of them below.

Arrangements Square Small lamp | Suspension | Flos - https://flos.com/products/pendant/arrangements/arrangements-square-small/

Vibia | Lampe Suspendue Palma - https://www.vibia.com/fr/int/lampes-suspendues-palma-lampe-suspendue

I have tried multiple dimmer switches. but keep on having the same issue. Flickering and buzzing. Clearly there is a wattage problem where the LEDs are being overloaded.

The first dimmer switch I tried was for incandescant I think, wattage was too high.

Rotary Dimmer Switch 60-400W
Controlled by potentiometer • PUSH-PUSH type connection • Power element: triac • Designed for charge connection: Conventional glow
Output voltage: ~ 230V -current: 10A -limitation of power: thermal circuit breaker with automatic reactivation

I then bought the following:


I was convinced one of these would work. They are low wattage switches specifically for LED dimmables. But I am having the same issues.

What could be causing this problem? I am really struggling here. It's not the lights themselves, or the bulbs. It has to be the dimmer switch surely? Can anyone recommend a solution?

Thank you in advance.
 
TL;DR
Dimmer Switch issues for dimmable LED suspension lights, flickering and buzzing
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Midwest

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Arms
Esteemed
What you might have here, is a compatibility problem with the luminaire and dimmer switch, stating the obvious I know!

The last dimmer you've used, the Varilight, normally is compatible with most LED lamps. You could ring Varilight technical, to see if their could offer any guidance. Another make that seems to be boast trouble free LED dimming is Zano. You could ask them as well.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
The tech spec says this:

SUSPENSION LIGHT 1
The electronics integrated in the rose enables use of dimming systems: push, 1-10, potentiometer, DALI. In the absence of these systems, the light flow can be set with the push system included in the rose.
Voltage 48V
Power 20W


SUSPENSION LIGHT 2
1-10V PUSH dimmable
2 × LED 4,6W 500mA

Luminaire 685.5 lm 74.51 lm/W


So the last Varilight switch should work for both as I understand it?
Product Description: 2-Gang 2-Way Push-On/Off Rotary LED Dimmer 2 x 0-120W (1-10 LEDs)
 
The Varilight V-Pro has 3 modes. Mode 1 = trailing edge, mode 2 = leading edge, mode 3 = alternative trailing edge. Default is mode 1. I had an issue with some LED lamps flickering in mode 1, changing to mode 3 sorted it. See instructions on how.
Post automatically merged:

The tech specs say the voltage should be 48v
Have you connected this to 230v?
Looks like the driver is in the ceiling rose:
BIG ROSE100-240V 50/60Hz INPUT: MAX 210WOUTPUT: 48Vdc MAX 190W
 
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  • #6
So I am right in thinking the Dimmer switches listed above should all be suitable?

Given they go down to 0 Watts, I don't see any way for them to be sending too much wattage through the circuit.
 

Midwest

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Arms
Esteemed
@roussell85 , where do you live? Your avatar suggests US, but your profiles says your in France. The dimmers are 240v UK, not sure where the luminaries for.
 
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  • #8
@roussell85 , where do you live? Your avatar suggests US, but your profiles says your in France. The dimmers are 240v UK, not sure where the luminaries for.
Hi - I am in France. The dimmers are 240v but should also work in France, they were all bought in France and match the system here. Appreciate if i was in the US it would be a different story!
 

marconi

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Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
LED Load Regulators - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Wiring_Accessories~Dimmers_All/Load_Regulators/index.html#Load_Regulators_Resload

If having changed the mode of the dimmer and/or the minimum dimness level you find you still have flickering and noise then I recommend you buy a Danlers Load regulator(DLR) and connect it across the Line and Neutral feed into the lamp rose. (see also # below).Be careful to locate the DLR in the void above the rose so that it has free air around it and is not touching any wires as it does get warm and needs to dissipate this heat.

If the two light fittings are controlled by the same dimmer then you only need one DLR placed at one of the roses. If the light fittings each have a dimmer then you will need a DLR at each rose.

# If you find the procedure to change the mode and minimum dimness too much of a faff just buy a DLR and fit as I have described above. I think you are suffering from premature turn off of the electronic switch inside the dimmers (a triac or thyristor) because the LEDs draw decreasing current
as the sine wave of the mains voltage approaches the zero crossover point. These triacs/thyristors need a minimum current to keep conducting after being triggered to do so by the dimmer electronics. Adding a 'dumb' power resistor ensures the triacs/thyristor stay conducting to a lower mains voltage so the brief turn off of the LED around crossover is not noticed.
 
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  • #10
Appreciate all the responses so far, I will update once I have tried the above. If any other ideas let me know!
 
So I am right in thinking the Dimmer switches listed above should all be suitable?

Given they go down to 0 Watts, I don't see any way for them to be sending too much wattage through the circuit.
They don't send wattage anywhere. It is the max/min load in watts they can take.
 

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