J.C.E

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Arms
Dec 2, 2010
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Earth
Evening guys

Client for my upcoming rewire asked me if I could also install a intruder alarm system as an extra for my upcoming 2bed rewire. -At first I did say I will just run the supply for the panel- and the actually system itself is something I don't really cater for- its more specialist- which he was happy with.....but done a bit of looking online and it doesn't seem that difficult if I am honest!

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TS8EP407N.html

Looking at getting this-
mounting the main panel near the fuse board- supplied by a un-switched spur
have the key pad by the front door
sounder outside the front- high level
1x door mag and 1x pir for front door
1x door mag and 1x pir for back door

then is it just a case of running a 6core between each door mag back to main panel, each pir back to main panel

is a cable needed between the keypad and the panel- or is that wireless?

I know 2 of the 6cores has to linked at each mag and pir as a 'tamper circuit' and then if more then 1 zone (so in this case there will be 4?- 2x mags 2x pir's) -the tamper circuit kept in series at the panel.

any advise welcome

cheers
 
Accenta is a good basic panel, no frills but reliable. 6 core cable required from each device back to panel...rule of thumb, 1 zone 1 device. A 6 core also needed to bell box and from panel to keypad, if you make zone 1 front door contact & zone 2 front hall pir, then the default setting will help you.
The tampers from each device will require wiring in series, connections by block or soldering
 
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What would be a fair labour charge for this? Just do it per point as i have with sockets/lights?
will be done at same time as rewire- so floors be up etc
 
price up the alarm gear . add a day's labour.
 
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Are you not putting any PIR's in the bedrooms? You can omit these at night.
Where are you fitting the Panic Attack button? Front door.. bedroom..?
 
For a basic system with 1 outside sounder, panel, remote keypad, and 3 pir's
is this very quick circuit correct for the tamper circuit?
will use the green and yellow of the 6core (instead of blue/black lol)

image.jpg
 
nope. the zone tampers are connected as per your pic. the ext. sounder is separate, as is the keypad. their tampers have their own dedicated terminals in the panel. and also, add the door contact tampers into your series loop. it's all in the install manual. download one and have a look.
 
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I feel soooo rejected... What about my post #5??? :(
 
he just wants most basic system- pir by front door, pir by back door and a pir in living room- nothing upstairs- no door mags- no panic buttons

ok, but you will have the stuff anyhow. Suppose you could keep it for future jobs.
 
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image.jpg

Just need help on the 6 core connections between a honeywell ag6 ext sounder and strobe
and the gen4 main panel- confussing me a lil!

EDIT:

Is it:

SOUNDER>PANEL:
TR- > SCB
S- > BELL-
V+ > BELL+
V- > SCB
ST- > STROBE-

(but thats only 5cores needed? what about the 6core??)
 
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For the bell box only 5 cores are needed. Keep one spare if any damage is done whilst installing :wink:
 
You've got it, nothing wrong with that mate. Get it installed but please look at preset factory zones and what you need from the panel? I've never made that mistake before,,, honest!!!
 
You've got it, nothing wrong with that mate. Get it installed but please look at preset factory zones and what you need from the panel? I've never made that mistake before,,, honest!!!


I will only have 3 zones:
pir by front door-exit/entry route
pir in front room
pir by back door

and set all 3 zones to timed zones rather than inhibited or immediate

that what you mean
 
if i were installing it, i'd fit contacts to front and back doors. that way the 2 PIRs would be entry inhibited but instant if door was not opened. and the door contacts would be the first line of defence.
 
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When I used to fit them (for friends) I always used a contact for the front door & PIR's for the rest of the rooms.
 
Best way to explain the above good points.....
You have a glass front door, you would fit contact on the door (timed)(zone 1) and pir in the entry hall (inhibited or access)(zone 2)
if you open the front door the door contact and pir will give you access time.
If you break the glass without opening the door, the pir will be instant
 
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Not much point in having the PIR's in the front & back room timed.
 
Not much point in having the PIR's in the front & back room timed.

Im thinking timed as in- once it is set- you have 30secs to leave before the pir will pick you up moving

is it not that?

and do should i put the 3 pirs as 'inhibit zone'
 
if your only using pirs then front door area or hall, needs to be timed....all other pirs need to be instant.
without door contacts, inhibited zone is useless.

so now if you enter front door pir will time out.....all other pirs will activate instantly.
 
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Gotcha!

its my 1st one- so just going to deliver what clients asking for- hopfully get it right
and they maybe with the next one- offer some recommendations on a few more zones etc
 
with regards to testing after installing...

with the 3 zones (pir's) connected up but disconnected at the panel end- just do a conti test between the two alarm cores and record the ohms reading in the booklet?

surely you test the other cores too though?

what about certifications etc when it comes to intruder alarms?
 
if it's a basic audible domestic. no certification is required. although alarm & tamper loop readings and voltages recorded is a good idea.
 
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if it's a basic audible domestic. no certification is required. although alarm & tamper loop readings and voltages recorded is a good idea.

test for 12v at each point (pir's, rkp, sounder)- guessing having the covers off will open tamper? just silence the alarm?
 
test for 12v at each point (pir's, rkp, sounder)- guessing having the covers off will open tamper? just silence the alarm?

Dont connect the tamper wires at the board before testing. Also at this stage you can do a continuity test on the tamper circuit (if you keep the springs in place with a bit of tape) :wink:
 
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Dont connect the tamper wires at the board before testing. Also at this stage you can do a continuity test on the tamper circuit (if you keep the springs in place with a bit of tape) :wink:
why not just fit the covers?
 
LOL if its done in stages, you will see how its done. connect all wiring to pirs, the power them up by connecting to aux on panel. Now measure the voltage at each pir, when finished, replace covers. Now back at panel measure the resistance of each pir zone & tamper. then connect to zones and tamper. Reason for this way of testing is some pirs stay o/c until powered up.
 
Post # 28 to be cheeky :wink:

Testing Dc voltage at pir's whilst active, we may need the covers off lol.
but your post was about measuring the tamper loop res. see post#32.
 

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J.C.E

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