Lights problem with LED lamps not turning off

[Pat H]

I'd need to check the regs, but I don't think it makes any distinction between VD tolerances on LV and ELV systems.
Personally, I don't like the idea of having one driver for all the lamps. All the lights go out if/when the driver dies.

That's a valid point but easily solved if needed. There are already various supply solutions that offer redundant backups. A second parallel convertor that waits to switch in. The other advantage of 12V distributed would be the ease of adding battery backup for power outages.

 

[Midwest]

Interesting trying to find why 3% was the chosen max volt drop for lighting. QUOTE]

Not forgetting the supply of voltage can be + 10%, - 6% of 230 volts, so your light bulb might be trying to operate at 209 volts?

Not forgetting the supply of voltage can be + 10%, - 6% of 230 volts, so your light bulb might be trying to operate at 209 volts?

 

[Pat H]

209.714V I calculate...

 

[Midwest]

209.714V I calculate...

So did my calculator, but the lamp should be able to function at 209.714 volts, but possibly not at 209 volts

 

[Pat H]

To add an additional variable. Many LED drivers work from 110V to 240V so at 209V its more than happy.

 

[Midwest]

I believe not all drivers are the same. Universal AC input drivers can operate on varying voltage ( e.g. 90v to 360V for worldwide use), other drivers seem to operate on a range of primary input of 220V - 240V for UK use, so they wouldn't be happy, nor for that matter would BS7671.

 

[Pat H]

nor for that matter would BS7671.

What about BS7672 or whatever it will be

 

[Richard Burns]

I think the lighting limit is primarily for discharge lighting that may fail to strike at lower voltages; resistance lighting will "work" at any voltage it will just get dimmer and dimmer.
This is why you get such problems as the OPs because a tungsten filament lamp would have been "working" at the low voltage but not enough power would be supplied to generate a glow but the voltage would be discharged, with the LEDs they can operate on this limited power and glow dimly or flicker depending on the LED circuitry.

 

[Doomed]

Have you checked your main earth rod, and your main bond, are they both in good order ?

Should of said - yes, TNS, good readings, tested RCD's while I was at it, both OK,voltage around 240.

 

[Doomed]

Get one of these
RC Contact Suppressor | Maplin - http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/rc-contact-suppressor-rg22y
and fit it across one of the lamps (where you put your Fluke multimeter).

Ordered some - thank you - will go back on Thursday and fit.

 

[Doomed]

Sometimes you can get an induced voltage with two way switching, although 60 volts seems quite high. But even a small voltage can be enough to make low energy lamps glow. Sometimes dimable LED lamps won't glow like this.

The 2 fittings on the same switch(es) are two way switched - may disconnect the 2 way if easy when I go back to fit the bits on Thursday if I feel inclined and have the time to see if it helps out of interest.

 

[tamz]

Look for a borrowed neutral going to the extension.
I had the same problem in my house and asked every spark I knew why I was getting between 60 and 90v on the lighting neutral and they all came up with weird and wonderful ideas as to why and they were all wrong.
I was working on a job with a 3rd year apprentice spark and said to him and straight away he said you have a borrowed neutral. Hecalled up to the house and found it in 15 mins, pulled a couple of wires through (I just left him to it) and it was sorted.
I'm a plumber so will probably be banned and this post deleted by about half 9 tomorrow lol

 

[Doomed]

Get one of these
RC Contact Suppressor | Maplin - http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/rc-contact-suppressor-rg22y
and fit it across one of the lamps (where you put your Fluke multimeter).

Now fitted, problem gone, all happy - Thank you.

 

[D00DY_T00DY]

Why wouldn't you think the VD should count here? No difference in designing a 12V circuit to a 230V circuit. Albeit one is ELV.

You already have a 95% volt drop at the cu what's another 3?
I joke

 

[Marvo]

D-pole switches would also be an option if the neutral runs through the switch box