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growler

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Arms
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Im currently in the process of 1st fixing a load of flats for a company as a subby. ive been told to do a kitchen appliance ring on a grid switch and also a radial for a microwave off the same grid switch. Also there is a heat recovery system and they want the boost switches as part of the light switches. Usually i would do a seperate spur for a microwave and have the boost switches seperate next to the light switches. Im just concerned it wont be obvious that there is actually two seperate circuits in the grid / light switches. Seems like bad practice to me !
Your thoughts would be appreciated !
 
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M

mark ju

More to the point...an appliance ring off a grid switch??
We always made all the appliances as radials fed from the grid switch/fuse layout. The grid switch was then part of the kitchen ring.
 

growler

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Arms
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
More to the point...an appliance ring off a grid switch??
We always made all the appliances as radials fed from the grid switch/fuse layout. The grid switch was then part of the kitchen ring.
this is what it is.
 
G

Guest55

Im trying to picture this kitch ring / grid switch set-up.
Does the ring start / finish at the grid or the CU. ?
If its from the grid , then all the grid switch modules will need to be rated at 32A unless i've got this all wrong ?
mark ju's idea sounds better and is the more conventional method.
 
Im currently in the process of 1st fixing a load of flats for a company as a subby. ive been told to do a kitchen appliance ring on a grid switch and also a radial for a microwave off the same grid switch. Also there is a heat recovery system and they want the boost switches as part of the light switches. Usually i would do a seperate spur for a microwave and have the boost switches seperate next to the light switches. Im just concerned it wont be obvious that there is actually two seperate circuits in the grid / light switches. Seems like bad practice to me !
Your thoughts would be appreciated !
It is bad practice on a new install, but you can always put a "Voltage from 2 supplies" type sticker above the terminals. I have done this when I come across upstairs and downstairs lighting supplies, separate, but on the same 2 gang switch.
 
M

mackers

It is bad practice on a new install, but you can always put a "Voltage from 2 supplies" type sticker above the terminals. I have done this when I come across upstairs and downstairs lighting supplies, separate, but on the same 2 gang switch.
bad practice? interesting how should it be done?
 
P

Ponty Massive

I'd be using a Dual backbox with seperate front plates for switching lights and heater boost.
just an idea anyway lol.
How do you fit a 2-gang switch for the landing / hallway if upstairs and down stairs are on different circuits?
 
G

Guest55

How do you fit a 2-gang switch for the landing / hallway if upstairs and down stairs are on different circuits?
At what point did i mention 2 way hall lighting ?
I was refering to the OP's original enquiry concerning the kitchen wiring.
 
Looks like I'm answering a rhetorical question.
Or just talking bolox again:)
 
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G

Guest55

But to answer your question , well you cant can you ?
As its only a house with only 2 lighting circuits its not going to be that difficult to isolate both so i wouldnt lose any sleep over it.
 
M

mackers

Pretty easily mate, it's not something I like doing but suppose downstairs is a 1 way, you have the normal feed to sw and switched live from the downstairs circuit. Upstairs is a 2 way so you take the 3 core from the upstairs 2wsw to the downstairs 2w and there you have it
trev read the post mate lol its been said that this is bad practice
 
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