Problem Solved

[acat]

If the thread has gone past the point of being re taped, I usually get a plaster depth 16mm galv back box take one of the oval knock outs drill through either end with a 4mm bit, bend the knackered lug flush with the box, drill two 3mm holes in the back of the box that correspond with the two on the knock out, tap them screw the knock out to the back of the box with shortened 3.5 screws, in line with where the faceplate screw falls normally then drill a third hole in the centre of the knock out thread it, then use a 75mm 3.5 screw as normal. hope that makes slight sense.

The above was posted by Pennywise on another thread and no doubt it is a problem that has bugged us all at some stage. This got me thinking what other problems have we come across and what was your solution to it.

So lets have the problems and solutions and if you can think of a better solution please post it.


Chris

 

[pennywise]

I'm all out of ideas that was my one and only party trick

 

[Crosswire]

Take removable lug from another box and glue it to the front of stripped lug

 

[mogga]

dont you mean BACK if its on the front it could just pull off

 

[Crosswire]

Yes , back of lug is better due to long metal tab that comes with some lugs,( although once superglue is set I find it can easily take the pull of the screw)

Still, quicker than drilling.

 

[chris gray]

i just get a 3.5 wood screw and wind that into it
spax tend to work a treat

 

[domapegitashi]

good its solbed

 

[JUD]

http://www.electriciansforums.net/e...l-forum/16759-2-way-lighting-help-please.html

First thing you need to do is find out which cable is for the hallway lights (if you haven't already).

On one of the cables join the live and neutral wires together and test for continuity between live/sw. live and neutral at hallway light. If you don't get a reading try same thing on other cable.

As the hallway is only 1way the neutral wire will likely be your switch wire and should be identified with brown sleeve. You can connect that to one of the gangs in the switch. Brown to Common, Blue (with brown marker) to L1.

If the other cable is also T&E, I would think that it is probably wired as Notsosmart's diagram suggests probably using the live and neutral wires as strappers and the light getting it's neutral from elsewhere. Take a look at how the upstairs switch is wired. If you have brown and blue wires going to L1 and L2 then I would say this is the case. If so, in the downstairs switch you will need a link from the common of the hallway switch to the common of the landing switch, then brown and blue(marked brown again) into L1 and L2 of landing switch.

Something like this:

 

[Tony Way]

Even simpler way shown to me by time served sparks. Drill through knackered lug (to ensure correct location) and through the back of the metal box. Tap new hole and use 50-75mm screw. Only one drill and tap.

 

[pinghenglin505]

Maybe you can have a try at every method others suggested.

 

[GStueyXR]

On rewires, if you can pull the old 1.5mm T&E switch live returns out from above, you can avoid chasing out by pulling 1.0mm replacements. Pulls through nice and easy.

I done a job recently and saved oodles of chasing by pulling EVERY SLR like this.

And dont worry about mixing 1.0 with 1.5, the live return will only ever take the load of that single lighting point (unless you are linking).

 

[rocker]

SPARKYA will you please stop hijacking threads with this question. I have counted five posts with this question in already. You have your main question in the forums and have replies to it, please stop abusing other's posts. Thanks.

 

[Sintra]

Thanks Rocker now removed.

 

[telectrix]

or---------------------- leave it for the plasterer. it never fall off once he's gobbed half a hundredweight in and around it

 

[ezzzekiel]

fill the box with silicone and simply push faceplate into position (no screws required)

 

[telectrix]

sure you're not a plumber???

 

[stuylangford]

i normally use side cutters and nip edges of lug together creating a smaller oval hole then re-thread it....simple