Discuss Solder Joints in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

You can actually buy (at least in the US) connectors that you both crimp and solder. Search on "Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors" ... are crimped for mechanical reliability, soldered for superior strength and conductivity, and sealed for maximum durability. When there is no margin for error, choose Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors...the ultimate connector. They seem to be aimed at marine and other harsh environments, not domestic wiring!
 
You can actually buy (at least in the US) connectors that you both crimp and solder. Search on "Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors" ... are crimped for mechanical reliability, soldered for superior strength and conductivity, and sealed for maximum durability. When there is no margin for error, choose Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors...the ultimate connector. They seem to be aimed at marine and other harsh environments, not domestic wiring!
well `bucket` type connectors will both solder or crimp wont they....
 
As said its down to the quality of workmanship of the trade really,a well crimped joint is better than a badly soldered and vice versa really but for me you can't beat solder,once you get into it and see the results it's pretty addictive.......












Or is that just the fumes?????
 
You can actually buy (at least in the US) connectors that you both crimp and solder. Search on "Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors" ... are crimped for mechanical reliability, soldered for superior strength and conductivity, and sealed for maximum durability. When there is no margin for error, choose Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors...the ultimate connector. They seem to be aimed at marine and other harsh environments, not domestic wiring!

Lol I've heard of Yorkshire plumbing fittings but never Yorkshire ferrules.
 
We learned to solder with copper irons as well as electric ones but to do the copper iron ones we had to go down in the basement of the Charlie T college of Arts and Tech. Remember when i was working as a young apprentice for Redifussion having a warm off the gas ring things when doing some of the outside wiring.

The Charlie Trev college & Redifusion........ does that mean yer another Geordie ????
 
Learnt to do solder joints at college. Our instructer said "here lads, show you this but you'll never need to do it".
He was wrong. Have used it on cable up to 10mm, (earths) when really neccassary and no way or time to do anything else. Have 100 % confidence in my abilities to whip and solder cable.
More to the point, and although i have used crimps on single solid core cable, i was always taught that crimps are only to be used on stranded cable as they grip better. Anyone else ever heard this?

Yes, I've heard this and I have a lot more faith in my properly made soldered joints than I have in any crimped joint.
 
A couple of Bardics there on the left. I've got a yellow one off my mate who worked on London Underground, good lamp. 3rd one along, I think I had one of those as a kid, flashing light on the top!
yes they are indeed bardics,the two in my picture are ex BR however I do have a yellow one that doesnt change colour and that was from BT a few years back.
 
Hi Sky I'm just glad that you are still with us and hadn't shot yourself after reading all the devastatingly interesting "stuff" that we have provided you with.

I think we could quite easily claim that soldering had gone because of " Health and Safety" after all it gets blamed for everything else. My Uncle nearly burnt our house down with a blowlamp and he was only stripping paint.

I really like the old instruments, they remind me of my apprenticeship at SEEBoard. We were expected to work with some real rubbish.

Phil

The great advantage with crimping is that it doesn't use so much cable. It can be very useful when the wires are short and it is a lot easier even if it does need a bit less skill.
 
A Company I used to work for as an apprentice had a machine used for soldering cable lugs on.

Not surprisingly, it was called a 'lugger', not seen one for a long time, it comprised a transformer, can't remember what voltage it operated at but it supplied a hefty current to a pair of hand held insulated 'pliers'.

Grip the lug with the pliers, switch on and the lug got hot right now!

It was a two man job, but even so a bit of fancy footwork and fast hands were required to get the lug on the cable, flux it up, apply the solder, switch the machine off and then hold the whole thing steady until it cooled, anybody remember them?
 
A Company I used to work for as an apprentice had a machine used for soldering cable lugs on.

Not surprisingly, it was called a 'lugger', not seen one for a long time, it comprised a transformer, can't remember what voltage it operated at but it supplied a hefty current to a pair of hand held insulated 'pliers'.

Resistance soldering is still going strong. I've not tried it myself, but it's popular for model making, eg soldering brass track to copper clad sleepers as you can get a lot of heat to a precise point without adjacent parts unsoldering. There are various designs around for making the soldering station. Basically a transformer giving lots of current at a volt or two. The electrodes are typically graphite, so they don't stick with the solder.

Here's a link to a company that makes the soldering stations. The pic at the top of the page shows a battery lug, or similar, being soldered.
Resistance Soldering: The Solution
 

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