Discuss Whole Kitchen wiring diagram advice (excluding lights) in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

I've a feeling it excludes items which are intended for installation by an electrician. But any appliance which is for immediate use by the general public must be fitted with a plug*. Not 100% on this though so happy to be proved wrong.

*plugtop, but don't say it 3 times!
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!
But then as you say there is a list of exclusions at the end, and I think number 7 tallies with your feeling.
IMG_0388.jpeg
 
The regulations seem, to my non-legal eye, to apply to any appliance for domestic use that is fitted with a Flex!
But then as you say there is a list of exclusions at the end, and I think number 7 tallies with your feeling.
View attachment 111844

Many thanks - that's what I had in mind. Makes sense that there had to be an exclusion to cover things like this.
 
Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.

But I also believe in simplicity where possible.

One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.

The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.

Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.

Might as well give my thoughts I guess.
In principle I do agree that more circuits is better, as it gives more selectivity between loads. So if one part of the installation becomes faulty, other parts remain intact and in service.

But I also believe in simplicity where possible.

One thing you need to change is having the fridge freezer on A 6 amp MCB. It may only have a small running current, but when the compressor(s) start there is a significant startup surge which will trip a 6A MCB.

The sort of thing that even a competent DIYer will probably not be aware of.

Installation design, even at a relatively simple level, is in my opinion beyond the scope of DIY, because there are so many factors that need to be coordinated, and a huge book of regulations that are applicable and need to be adhered to.
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guys
 
this is easy fix, I couldn't find specs for my fridge, and too lazy to pull it as all info at the back regarding load. Let's have 13A mcb then for a fridge circuit in a perfect scenario. I still inclined to put all exept hob/oven/ hot tap on 1 ring c. But still wondering what is the perfect wiring, how far will you go, guys

13A MCB? Maybe a 13A fuse in an FCU. Feb by a suitable MCB and cable obviously.

This is still in the 'design by forum' method though. I'm reluctant to give step by step advice as this would be against the forum guidelines.
 
13A MCB? Maybe a 13A fuse in an FCU. Feb by a suitable MCB and cable obviously.

This is still in the 'design by forum' method though. I'm reluctant to give step by step advice as this would be against the forum guidelines.
getting all sоur again, no one sane will build this over-designed circuit, I remind you this is your "dream circuit" now. Fridge plug has 13A fuse. The other electrician up the lines said no need for fcu, just isolator and single plug. All wires apart from the hob are 2.5mm. You can't agree between each other on what is right and you are still discovering regulations while we speak. So no point to be snobbish here
 
getting all sоur again, no one sane will build this over-designed circuit, I remind you this is your "dream circuit" now. Fridge plug has 13A fuse. The other electrician up the lines said no need for fcu, just isolator and single plug. All wires apart from the hob are 2.5mm. You can't agree between each other on what is right and you are still discovering regulations while we speak. So no point to be snobbish hear

I was questioning your idea of a 13A MCB. And I suggested an alternative, ie. a 13A fuse, whether that is in a plug or an FCU. But if you want to get hold of a 13A MCB then fair enough.

To be honest I think you're taking the mick a bit by expecting people to design your system for you and then being rude when they disagree with either you or your 'first electrician'.

And for that reason....... I'm out.
 
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I was questioning your idea of a 13A MCB. And I suggested an alternative, ie. a 13A fuse, whether that is in a plug or an FCU. But if you want to get hold of a 13A MCB then fair enough.

To be honest I think you're taking the p*** a bit by expecting people to design your system for you and then being rude when they disagree with either you or your 'first electrician'.

And for that reason....... I'm out.
thank you for you generous input, indeed 13A mcb are not common, that was a typo on a diagram. Also I just checked the similar fridge is 2.7kw so 16a mcb is good. As for isolator (fused or not) it is only needed if plug is not accessible (behind appliance, the fridge cable is long enough to put socket in near cabinet) or not? I've got it, those plugs are mostly down to personal preferences and additional safety and convenience for servicing. Otherwise those are not necessary (if socket is accessible)
IET - BS 7671 On-site Guide (2018): "Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket-outlet or switch fused connection unit that is accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use. Alternatively, where an appliance is supplied from a socket-outlet or a connection unit, these should be controlled by an accessible double pole switch or switched fused connection unit."
 
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what if we keep part of main (whole house) ring circuit which is currently passing through the room for everything above worktops: like microwave, hood, boiler, and 2/3 double sockets. this way the worse case scenario total load for dedicated kitchen ring circuit will be under 32A . If we consider 1,76kw multicooker (used often), 1.2kw blender and 1.1kw mixer (occasionally) on above worktop sockets this could help to balance the load but might be more confusing for testing and CU labelling or is it very bad practice in your opinion?kiwa91.jpg
 
what if we keep part of main (whole house) ring circuit which is currently passing through the room for everything above worktops: like microwave, hood, boiler, and 2/3 double sockets. this way the worse case scenario total load for dedicated kitchen ring circuit will be under 32A . If we consider 1,76kw multicooker (used often), 1.2kw blender and 1.1kw mixer (occasionally) on above worktop sockets this could help to balance the load but might be more confusing for testing and CU labelling or is it very bad practice in your opinion?View attachment 111862
I think most people on here will know about diversity, division of circuits etc.
The way forward for you is to discuss this with your electrician.
 
I think most people on here will know about diversity, division of circuits etc.
The way forward for you is to discuss this with your electrician.
he still owes me certificate for his previous job, so if all of them are useless like he and you there is little hope :(
 
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