Wiring an electric hob and oven

[gazfocus]

Upto recently our house has an electric oven and a gas hob. The gas hob has now been disconnected.


The oven is wired into the cooker socket and their is also a plug socket that the hob was plugged into for the ignition.


We've now bought an electric hob and we've read various things on the Internet but would like some advice.


1. Can we plug the oven into the 13AMP socket that the gas hob was plugged into? - the oven is rated at just under 2400W.


2. Can we wire the hob and oven into the same cooker point?

 

[telectrix]

if you have a cooker outlet connection from the cooker switch, then change this to a double outlet and wire the hob in there. assuming that the feed is 6.0mm this will suffice for both cooker and hob.

edit: there are a few self-employed members in lancashire could come and sort it for you if you are unsure. cost is not very much fo about 1 hour's work.

 

[gazfocus]

if you have a cooker outlet connection from the cooker switch, then change this to a double outlet and wire the hob in there. assuming that the feed is 6.0mm this will suffice for both cooker and hob.

edit: there are a few self-employed members in lancashire could come and sort it for you if you are unsure. cost is not very much fo about 1 hour's work.

Thanks for the reply. I've had a look for a double outlet but can find anywhere locally that sell them and need something in time for Christmas dinner...

i did get a quote from an electrician of between £45 - £65 but a bit reluctant to pay out that much as it'll need disconnecting early in the new year when we change our work tops.

 

[Kem]

Just pay the money and get it done by a professional. Electricity is dangerous and it kills. You not have the knowledge nor qualifications to do this.

Would you mess around with a gas pipe?

No I didn't think so.

 

[gazfocus]

No I wouldn't but at the same time I have basic knowledge of electrics and have changed plug sockets and light switches before. All I'm asking is whether the cooker connection unit will handle the hob and single oven.

The hob is 6700W
The oven is 2400W
The house is only 7 years old (not sure if that makes a difference)

 

[telectrix]

Thanks for the reply. I've had a look for a double outlet but can find anywhere locally that sell them and need something in time for Christmas dinner...

i did get a quote from an electrician of between £45 - £65 but a bit reluctant to pay out that much as it'll need disconnecting early in the new year when we change our work tops.

that's a reasonable quote. OK, it's a bit of a drain on the xmas beer fund, but nothing compared with personal injury or a house fire.

 

[Kem]

No I wouldn't but at the same time I have basic knowledge of electrics and have changed plug sockets and light switches before. All I'm asking is whether the cooker connection unit will handle the hob and single oven.

The hob is 6700W
The oven is 2400W
The house is only 7 years old (not sure if that makes a difference)

Okay what is the current carrying capacity of the cable feeding the hob? What size is the cable? Does it have a functioning cpc? What is the R1+R2 figures for the circuit? What is the zs figures. Is it fed by the correct mcb/rcbo/rcd?

 

[gazfocus]

that's a reasonable quote. OK, it's a bit of a drain on the xmas beer fund, but nothing compared with personal injury or a house fire.

Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone £45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.

 

[Geordie Spark]

Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone £45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.

Work in a kitchen is classed as work in a special location - as is work in a bathroom - and is notifiable to your Local Authority.

What provision do you have in place to satisfy this legal requirement?

 

[graeme210375]

No I wouldn't but at the same time I have basic knowledge of electrics and have changed plug sockets and light switches before.

Can I ask, purely out of interest, why you feel it is fine to mess with electrics yourself, but not the gas? Both are governed by strict regulations, both have legal implications, and both could kill you if you get them wrong.

At least with gas you can generally smell a fault. Electrical faults can lie dormant for ages and strike when you least expect.

Please just pay a few quid to get it installed and tested correctly.

I know this isn't the answer you want, and you're after a step by step guide, but I don't want your wellbeing on my conscience.

 

[ste mac]

Pay the money. When the time comes to replace the work top the hob can be lifted, tilted at an angle and slid down thoroughly the hob cutout in the work top into the unit below. When the new work top has been fitted and a hole cut feed it back through. No need to disconnect the hob.

 

[sedgy34]

As tel says in post 2 1st paragraph
change it to a double socket more money for beer fund then when your up and running you can cook that chip on Kems Shoulder :teeth_smile: it's all fixed wiring he's only changing a face plate Ffs

 

[lauriehurman]

Well Gazfocus you're fairly peed off by now.
What you wanted was information and what you got was advice. None of us likes advice that tells us not to do what we want to do - especially if we know in our hearts that it's right.

The reason you got all this advice was that what you thought was going to be a simple "plug it in" job is - as has been pointed out - not simple.
You've gone from a 2.4KW load to a 9.1KW load - and they are all going to be on for the Xmas dinner.

The big fear is; is the cable up for the 40 amp load, will the insulation overheat? The insulation on the cable is good for 70deg but if it softens with a continuous high operating temp then a house fire is a big risk.

I'm sorry that some of us are a bit "abrupt" in our manner. We wish you a happy, but mainly a safe, Xmas.

Laurie

 

[Octopus]

Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone £45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.

Ok mate. Use a single to double socket convertor and add a plug to each of the new units. Switch them both on and see what happens. With any luck all you'll do is blow some fuses.

Unbelieveable.

You could need a new dedicated cooker circuit and that could be £150 or more.

 

[1shortcircuit]

Just to add to the interesting topic, have you read the installation manual? I ask because some hobs specifically state that a heat resistant cable should be used. This can be difficult to source and should be the priority if you want it to be used during Christmas :thumbsup

 

[bigbaddave]

Is it not possible just to wait. If you are happy to pay a spark £45 to fit why not just wait till after the work tops are installed to change the cooker over..

Mind you when i get a new toy i want it to play with now.... Im Impatient me

 

[shocking_eg]

geezzz... how hard up is this guy ? lol

pay the £45 get it connected properly and as your so keen with the electrics im sure you can manage to disconnect it yourself when the worktops get changed ?

 

[telectrix]

this threrad is getting bogged down by over thinking. if the existing point is fed with 6mm cable on a 32A MCB, thern ther is nothing wrong with adding the hob to the existing CCU> if by chance he overloads the circuit, the MCB will do it's job. as long as he doesn't bridge it out with a nail, what's the problem?

 

[shocking_eg]

this threrad is getting bogged down by over thinking. if the existing point is fed with 6mm cable on a 32A MCB, thern ther is nothing wrong with adding the hob to the existing CCU> if by chance he overloads the circuit, the MCB will do it's job. as long as he doesn't bridge it out with a nail, what's the problem?

true words.

its a radial at the end of the day.

 

[telectrix]

so are my tyres.

 

[shocking_eg]

so are my tyres.

haha:teeth_smile:

 

[nikmet]

this threrad is getting bogged down by over thinking. if the existing point is fed with 6mm cable on a 32A MCB, thern ther is nothing wrong with adding the hob to the existing CCU> if by chance he overloads the circuit, the MCB will do it's job. as long as he doesn't bridge it out with a nail, what's the problem?

I've done similar work (hob replacements/ovens) and on more than one occasion when testing the existing circuit, found to have no continuity on the cpc, of course the previous oven worked fine!! without carrying out essential IMO testing how can you be 100% sure your leaving it SAFE?

 

[telectrix]

true. it can happen, but a rare occurence in my experience. a dedicated radial has no joints, so there is little likelyhood of as broken cpc if the original install has been done correctly.

 

[nikmet]

i agree, it is rare, and normally traced to a dodgy joint box hidden away with cpc cut off/ or fell out due to very poor work.....sometimes by a kitchen fitter possibly :-O

 

[telectrix]

well, as far aS KITCHEN FITTERS ARE CONCERNED, THE CPC IN t/e IS THERER JUST TO ENSURE THEY GET THE SCREW/NAIL DEAD CENTRE OF THE CABLE.