Wiring Schematics Review

[puddn_joint]

Hello from a very very remote part of the UK

I am currently living in a shell of a property with old out of date electrics (red/black wiring, white sheathed T/E cables and a plastic consumer unit!)
I only have one ring mains to do all my cooking, work etc.

Since my location is remote so a lot of sparkies have turned me down, even for good rates due to the travel distance/commitments/not wanting to rough it.

Therefore I want to do some of the legwork, not the hairy bits, I will still get an electrician for this.

So I plan to do the running in of the cables and first fix, but not do the connections.

The main problem is I am living whilst working in the place due to its remoteness. I want to design stuff with the fact that rooms are still being built.
i.e. first fix and second fix in some areas

I have made a wiring schematic but does not include the lighting currently

Main things;

1. I want to use RCBOs where possible even if its overkill
2. No Ring Mains
3. Maxed out with 100A mains supply currently (if I add two more electric showers in the future I think I will be in trouble)
4. I could not find a 60A RCBO for the Electric shower so I have chosen a 2 pole MCB
5. I have chosen a 20 way CU, but I think I am going to struggle as more parts of the house become liveable
6. 2 Bathrooms not built yet
7. 3 Bedrooms not built yet
8. Living room not built yet

Any thoughts or glaring concerns with this schematic so far?

 

[littlespark]

How remote?

It’s just, anyone within the London area thinks Newcastle is remote…

So it looks like you have all electric cooking, heating, and washing… no gas or oil?

Radials are fine for bedrooms, sitting rooms etc, but would still install a ring for kitchen appliances. Good that some big appliances are on own circuit

32A for a 10.00mm cable is either undersized breaker, or oversized cable.

60A shower? That’s over 13kW….. why so big?

Why would you be adding 2 more in future?

You may need some load shedding devices so that no two large appliances will operate at same time…. Ie, space heating power is cut if shower is turned on, automatically resets when total load drops.

Do you actually have 100A supply? Sometimes that’s just a sticker, and the actual fuse is 80 or perhaps 60. Your supplier has to confirm, don’t pull it out for a look

There could be other things… but it’s Saturday morning. Someone else might pitch in

 

[SJD]

A few brief comments:

• I'd defintely go all-RCBO, saves so much hassle when something trips, you know exactly which circuit is at fault.
• The bathroom 32A circuit seems a little odd, if there is something high power like another shower, it would have its own dedicated circuit.
• I've not come across a 60A shower before, and you wouldn't share a shower circuit with other equipment.
• As well as the missing lighting, you might want separate circuits for smoke alarms, anything outdoors, and possibly things like solar, car charging (assuming not too remote that you have a car).

Rather than a 20-way single row consumer unit, perhaps consider a dual-row unit, e.g. Hager do various models.

PS: where are you located?

 

[littlespark]

A few brief comments:

• I'd defintely go all-RCBO, saves so much hassle when something trips, you know exactly which circuit is at fault.
• The bathroom 32A circuit seems a little odd, if there is something high power like another shower, it would have its own dedicated circuit.
• I've not come across a 60A shower before, and you wouldn't share a shower circuit with other equipment.
• As well as the missing lighting, you might want separate circuits for smoke alarms, anything outdoors, and possibly things like solar, car charging (assuming not too remote that you have a car).

Rather than a 20-way single row unit, perhaps consider a dual-row unit, e.g. Hager do various models.

PS: where are you located?

HA… lighting!

Told you… Saturday morning…

 

[brianmoooore]

Haven't done the arithmetic in detail, but i expect that the design load of this exceeds 100A, so won't be able to be connected to a 'standard' single phase UK supply.
The main problem is that water heating devices are not subject to diversity, so are assumed to be drawing their full currents at all times. Electric showers are miserable devices when compared to a 'proper' shower from a stored supply, so I would advise eliminating them from the project at the design stage.
Also fails EIC as there is a non RCD protected appliance in a bath/shower room.

 

[puddn_joint]

Thanks, I will post an updated schematic later with the feedback.

I didn't want to go with an immersion heater as I thought it would be wasteful, I thought the on-demand taps like Ariston 2kw would be more efficient for doing the dishes (although a dishwasher is the most efficient apparently)

The shower is 15m away from the CU, that's why I thought 16mm and 60A

I am located near Skye on one of the islands

 

[brianmoooore]

There was a plan a few years ago to greatly improve the insulation of hot water cylinders, so much so, that it would cause problems fitting a new cylinder into many existing airing cupboards, but like many of the current government's ideas has been quietly forgotten about.
Dishwashers are by far the most efficient way of washing dishes, both in energy and water usage.
Small energy savings can be made by using local/instant water heaters, but they all add to the electrical design load, whereas one 3kW immersion heater is 12A, and that's the end of it
A long supply cable may require it to be increased in cross section, but it will be never require an increase in fuse/MCB rating.
As a very rough guide, this only starts to take effect when cables reach about 50m in length.