S

Sparksaflyin

Hi people. I’ve got my first niceic inspection in a few weeks. Any advice on what to expect? What type of installations to show them? Any tips to get through it smoothly would be greatly welcomed.

Thanks fellas ( and girls )
 
Remember you are paying them for their services...
Don’t be nervous, turn the tables on the asessor and use it as an opportunity to assess them..
Ask him questions and see what his knowledge is like, ask him about new sections of the regs like SPDs,etc..
Talk about their notification set up, how reliable it is, server problems and whatnot..
You know your jobs and set up is all good, otherwise you wouldn’t be going for membership, relax and don’t waffle...
 
Yeah don’t be nervous. Nice pile of paperwork ready. Certs for the jobs you are going to. If office audit is good then it starts day of well.
Don’t -------- , if you are unsure if anything ask for their advice as they love demonstrating their knowledge. Are you going ac or di ?
 
Thanks for the advice fellas. Some good nuggets of info there I’m going for the ac. I’m assuming this means twice as much grilling?
 
I don’t really do much private work to be honest as up until now I haven’t really needed to and also i wanted to be able to self certify before I started doing pw. Obviously this is going to make the whole process a little more difficult. I was hoping to use my home as the job. Is this exceptable. I’ve done a full rewire and then an office extension, plus loft conversion. The contractor I’m sub contracting from currently told me he was able to get away with using his home as the example job but this was for domestic installer not approved
 
Also one thing I’ve been unable to find any concrete answers for is the distance of a distribution board to a gas meter. Mine are currently both in the same 900 square cupboard and almost touching. I’m aware of the 150mm distance hearsay that goes round but like I say, I don’t seem to be able to find any concrete evidence for this
 
Also one thing I’ve been unable to find any concrete answers for is the distance of a distribution board to a gas meter. Mine are currently both in the same 900 square cupboard and almost touching. I’m aware of the 150mm distance hearsay that goes round but like I say, I don’t seem to be able to find any concrete evidence for this

As far as I know 150mm.is not hearsay, it is from the GSIUR
 
he was able to get away with using his home as the example job but this was for domestic installer not approved

You can use your own premises as on eof the sample jobs.
If it is a domestic installer registration then one domestic job is required.
If it is an approved contractor registration then it needs to be 3 sample jobs demonstrating the full spectrum of work you carry out, not just domestic work.
 
I put the fuseboard next to the gas meter I didn’t really have much of an option unless I was going to put the fuseboard on show in my kitchen. I was thinking about building an enclosure around the gas meter using fire proof boarding? I was under the impression that as long as there was a non combustible barrier between them that was ok?
 
You can use your own premises as on eof the sample jobs.
If it is a domestic installer registration then one domestic job is required.
If it is an approved contractor registration then it needs to be 3 sample jobs demonstrating the full spectrum of work you carry out, not just domestic work.

I was told by the niceic that I could do one board change, one eicr and one partial or full re-wire. I did purposefully ask if one needed to be in an commercial or industrial environment and they told me domestic would be “ok”. I’ll wait to hear what the actual inspector says when they call me too book a date in.
 
You’ll be fine with all domestic. An EICR is good but really ensure your report is accurate as my inspector even had me working out csa and copper equivalent of a 6mm steel bolt. No need for commercial as some ACs never do anything but domestic. The engineers are pretty good guys and don’t mind if you have a few gaps in knowledge, as long as you’re safe and working to a good standard, and you know where to find what you don’t know you will be golden. Always get them talking about their work history as it fills the awkward spaces between jobs etc. Good luck
 
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You’ll be fine with all domestic. An EICR is good but really ensure your report is accurate as my inspector even had me working out csa and copper equivalent of a 6mm steel bolt. No need for commercial as some ACs never do anything but domestic. The engineers are pretty good guys and don’t mind if you have a few gaps in knowledge, as long as you’re safe and working to a good standard, and you know where to find what you don’t know you will be golden. Always get them talking about their work history as it fills the awkward spaces between jobs etc. Good luck


Thanks for the advice mate I’ll bare it all in mind
 
Make sure your wifey or girl or boyfriend is ready first in bed.
And leave a apple on the table just in case to ram it down is throat in case you dont pass.lol.
 
Are the nic going to want to see an approved voltage tester and proving unit? Or can I get away with using my fluke t5-1000 and proving it on a known source when doing safe isolation, which I’m assuming you’ll have to show?
 
When I did my Elecsa assessments (domestic), I used a known source to do safe isolation. However, I did have a proving unit also. If you’re doing commercial/industrial, or new builds, there might be an occasion when you won’t have that known source, so why not get yourself a proving unit. You are responsible for your safety.:-)
 
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It’s a good idea fro have one but you will be ok proving your meter on incoming, isolated outgoing and then back to your known incoming.
 
I have never used a proving unit.
Hang on, I think I did when I done my testing and inspection assessment..
The trouble I have with proving units is that I don’t trust them.
 
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I have never used a proving unit.
Hang on, I think I did when I done my testing and inspection assessment..
The trouble I have with proving units is that I don’t trust them.

What do you do when a live supply isn't readily available or safely accessible?

That's why you prove the avi before and after testing, it shows that both the avi and proving unit are working.
 
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Are the nic going to want to see an approved voltage tester and proving unit? Or can I get away with using my fluke t5-1000 and proving it on a known source when doing safe isolation, which I’m assuming you’ll have to show?

Have you read through the niceic's guidance for new applicants? Questions like this are answered there.
 
For the cost of a cheap proving unit I would just buy one and sling it in your tool box for assessment day...
 
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What do you do when a live supply isn't readily available or safely accessible?

That's why you prove the avi before and after testing, it shows that both the avi and proving unit are working.

What I have done for the last 27 years is test the supply before isolating and then test it again after isolating it.. Then test the primary side again..
I have never been in a situation where I need a proving unit. I personally wouldn’t put my life or any one else’s in the hands of a proving unit..
 
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What I have done for the last 27 years is test the supply before isolating and then test it again after isolating it.. Then test the primary side again..
I have never been in a situation where I need a proving unit. I personally wouldn’t put my life or any one else’s in the hands of a proving unit..

There must be occasions however, when you test your supply before isolating and a tester indicates the supply is dead. How do you prove the voltage tester is not faulty, without access to a know live supply?
 
To be honest I’ve always tested on a known live supply. I can’t think of any situation I’ve been in where there’s not a known live supply somewhere in the near vicinity. Personally I have more than one voltage indicator/testing device on me at any one time so if there’s any doubt i can always test with another to verify
 
There must be occasions however, when you test your supply before isolating and a tester indicates the supply is dead. How do you prove the voltage tester is not faulty, without access to a know live supply?

In my opinion this scenario could continue forever. 15 testers/proving units/voltage indicators down the line there is still no way of truely proving that all the instruments are in perfect working order
 
I personally do not own a proving unit , I carry 2 volt pens and a multi meter / martindale , so 3 fail safes and I have proved dead this way for over 20 years now.

If all 3 fail me then so be it....

However if the Scams insist on a proving unit for the site visit then I would buy a cheap one for assessment day to 'tick the box'
 
I personally do not own a proving unit , I carry 2 volt pens and a multi meter / martindale , so 3 fail safes and I have proved dead this way for over 20 years now.

If all 3 fail me then so be it....

However if the Scams insist on a proving unit for the site visit then I would buy a cheap one for assessment day to 'tick the box'

This is probably the best bet and was what I was intending to do I just wanted to check if anyone knew for sure either way.
 
In my opinion this scenario could continue forever. 15 testers/proving units/voltage indicators down the line there is still no way of truely proving that all the instruments are in perfect working order

I’m all for the standard approach to safe isolation, by proving on a known source. My point is, that if you place your tester on your known source, and your tester does not light up, what do yo do then?
 
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I’m all for the standard approach to safe isolation, by proving on a known source. My point is, that if you place your tester on your known source, and your tester does not light up, what do yo do then?

I would give it a second check with an alternative test instrument. Even if it’s a volt pen.
 
There are different "accepted" methods for proving isolation for electricians

There is only one single 100 % assured means of removing all danger of never getting it wrong,its a little drastic so cover your ears


The person needs to earn a living in a different occupation
 
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There are different "accepted" methods for proving isolation for electricians

There is only one single 100 % assured means of removing all danger of never getting it wrong,its a little drastic so cover your ears


The person needs to earn a living in a different occupation

Lol I would have to agree
 
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Let’s face it there are times when you don’t really have a choice but to work live. If you can stay safe in this scenario then worrying about 100% sure safe isolation becomes a little obsolete
 
Even after I have safely isolated a circuit I will still give the end I’m working on a going over with a volt stick or the old quick touch technique lol just to be sure
 
Let’s face it there are times when you don’t really have a choice but to work live. If you can stay safe in this scenario then worrying about 100% sure safe isolation becomes a little obsolete

What times are those? If you are working live then you will be following a very detailed plan of the work written specifically for the task and will be using temporary insulation, fully insulated tools etc and wearing suitable fire resistant clothing, arc shields etc. None of this makes safe isolation a 'little bit obsolete'

Anyway, I thought you said earlier you only do domestic? There's never a need to work live in domestic work!

Working live is only really going to be considered when paying out the compensation for killing someone is cheaper than the loss of profit from shutting down production.
 
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Tips for my first niceic inspection
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