Discuss How to go about making Adjustments to a Speed Regulator in the Electrical Engineering Chat area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi, I have a project I have been working on, that has me out of my depth with regard to my knowledge, as I am a very basic electronic hobbies.


It comprises of a 24V D.C electric motor, 200W, 3,000 rpm, 13A. which has a pulley, a belt from this attaches to a pulley on a drive shaft, where a flywheel is situated, and on the other end, is a pulley, with another belt, that goes to a 230v AC alternator.
The motor is controlled by a Electromen EM-285 DC-Motor speed regulator 12 / 24V 20A. The regulator has three adjustable potentiometer, a Range trim, Current limit, and load compensation.
On the leaflet that came with the regulator for the installation, there is information that someone who works with electric motors, and speed controllers, which have potentiometer. Will know how to go about adjusting them to get the optima setting’s. But which has left me slightly baffled with my basic knowledge of electric motors, and electronics.

So I contacted the manufactures to see if they could help me, unfortunately they just repeated what was on the leaflet. But they did go off script a little, to quote from there email “There is no specific guidelines on setting the current-limit, I suggest experimenting until you find something that suits the application in question, start low and then increase”

So I experimented and found that if I sent the Range trim at a certain setting, and the current limit at another, the load compensation I left at zero.
With just the belt attached from the electric motor to the drive shaft, when I turned on the speed regulator, and increased the speed setting, the shaft started turning, I further increased the speed, and it picked up, and was moving very fast.
I then turn the speed down, and it slowly lost speed, until it was just turning over, and then I could slowly turn the speed up to a 100% again, and the flywheel was whizzing around.

Next I attached the belt from the pulley on the drive shaft to the one on the alternator. Turned on the speed regulator, and slowly increased the speed. This is when I found I had a problem, it would only rotate slowly, I put the speed controller up to 100%, but it made know different to the speed.

The alternator shaft runs on two bearing, you can spin the pulley on it, with your hand, and it will do a couple of revolution before it stops, so there is know great resistants from the alternator spinning.

Also there is not a great difference in the force one has to use to spinning the flywheel by hand with just the electric motor being connected to the drive shaft. To when I then attach the belt from the pulley, to the alternator, and then spun it by hand.

But logic dictates, that I lost the speed, that I had before, (which I must point out was really fast). When I attached the other belt that goes to the Alternator.
So is the answer to the lost of speed, down to the adjustments of the Potentiometer, to be quite frank, Range trim, Current Limit, and especially Load compensation, I have a lack of knowledge and experience of working with.

I did go online to see if I could improve my knowledge, which I did to some extent.

So I did a little experiment, and increased the Current limit which certainly made a difference to the speed. As the test was progressing there was a smell of melting plastic. Looking at this fuse, that, protects the electric motor which is a spade type, that are used in motor car, the plastic casing was melting!, it was acutely bubbling! but the fuse had not blown, so I turn off the power. Let everything cool down, put a new fuse in, and did a quick test, and everything worked o.k, so nothing else was damaged.

Any thoughts, and suggestion on what the problem is, and how to go about fixing it, would be much appreciated.
 
Drew
I see your posts about this project started back in February this year, at which time it seems you had similar issues.
I think it would help to have a meter to measure current and voltage to understand what is happening, but for your setup the DC current may be in excess of the typical 10A DC a multimeter can handle - I was thinking something with a 50A range might help? E.g.
PS. I think you would need to power the above module from a different battery/supply than the one driving your rig!

You have a lot of interacting variables, both electrical and mechanical:
  • The types of batteries, their voltage (state of charge) and current capability.
  • Efficiency of the DC motor and whether the motor is compatible with your drive module.
  • The settings of that drive module, which are a mystery to me too!
  • The friction introduced by the bearings, belts and pulleys, and the ratio of the sizes of pulley wheels (ie mechanical advantage, if any)
  • The inertia of the flywheel
  • Finally the inertia/ friction of the alternator

It doesn't greatly surprise me that the automotive fuse showed signs of overheating, as I suspect the motor current required to drive the mechanics might be considerable.

I fear I can't provide much help, except to encourage you to measure the electrical parameters, and think about the mechanical advantage of your pulley system (the ratio of pulley sizes, if different - google it!).
 
Probably better to get a cheap multimeter/clamp meter

Good idea, but OP has DC Amps to measure, so need one with a Hall effect sensor?
I looked at cheap multimeters, but didn't see any above 10A DC range unless you spend silly money, hence the weird thing!
 

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