How would you change this.

[MrPupsi]

How would you go about changing this unit over?

Old wylex board with Pyro mains tails. Earthed via Pyro, and all circuits via conduit.

Protrudes out the wall so I was thinking 1 of options, as I can’t see any other way round it.


Option 1
Batten on each side of the DB to the same level of the current one, crimp all cables and mount new unit over the old one.
Take a 16mm cpc from old board to new board.

Option 2
Angle grind the DB so it’s level with the wall and do same as above.

Option 3
Remove current DB completely and try to get another one in the same space, attempt to alter conduits and pyro to fit.
Don’t fancy bending pyro!

 

[GBDamo]

I'd quote £3,500 for the job and hope I didn't get it and if I did, pay someone else £2,000 to do it.

Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[freddo]

You could get another one in, would need to dig the wall out quite a lot though. Id use a Hager board, the model with no knockouts.

I've seen people fit new boards on top of old ones, but I've never seen that done in a way I'd consider satisfactory. Those conduits are probably 3/4 inch.

Edit I've just seen the conduits are at the bottom and top of the enclosure, I'd probably cheat in that case, cut the enclosure flush with the wall then mount a new cu on top. Not ideal but there is little else you can do without digging the conduits right out of the wall to adjust them to the new cu height.

 

[loz2754]

How would you go about changing this unit over?

View attachment 64229

Old wylex board with Pyro mains tails. Earthed via Pyro, and all circuits via conduit.

Protrudes out the wall so I was thinking 1 of options, as I can’t see any other way round it.


Option 1
Batten on each side of the DB to the same level of the current one, crimp all cables and mount new unit over the old one.
Take a 16mm cpc from old board to new board.

Option 2
Angle grind the DB so it’s level with the wall and do same as above.

Option 3
Remove current DB completely and try to get another one in the same space, attempt to alter conduits and pyro to fit.
Don’t fancy bending pyro!

Option 2

 

[ipf]

Unless you start talking rewire, it's adapt the existing box with the conduit entries.
I'd be checking the load and size...that pyro term looks a bit sweaty.
Is it a flat?
Interesting for a domestic job. Quite costly for a board change.

 

[stevethesparks]

Carefully

 

[ipf]

With the local tranny, even the doorbell system is wired via the conduits. Well done, originally. Probably local authority.

 

[MrPupsi]

Cheers guys, I had already opted for option 2 if I get it, I just always wonder what other people would do in these situations.
It’s not ideal, but the only way round it really without a rewire.

If I end up doing it I’ll post up pictures!

Its a tiny ex-council studio flat, with a 60a isolator, load isn’t an issue for what’s currently in there.

 

[7029 dave]

Yes option 2, some circuits may not need extending, all back entry.

 

[freddo]

Remove the guts, fit a din rail on standoffs with standard main switch and compact RCBOS, mount a neutral bar in the back of the enclosure on insulated standoffs. Make a nice cover out of polished brass plate a little larger than the box, bevel the edges of the plate for decoration. Drill fixing holes to match the existing lid lugs and cut out a rectangle for the devices to poke through. make a hinged cover to go over circuit breakers, formed again from brass plate, this time shaped with an industrial press. Fit lid to enclosure using copper or brass dome head rivets. Etch the brass with circuit information, filling the etched parts with dark blue enamel paint. Polish and fit cover with new brass pan head machine screws.

 

[cliffed]

Cheers guys, I had already opted for option 2 if I get it, I just always wonder what other people would do in these situations.
It’s not ideal, but the only way round it really without a rewire.

If I end up doing it I’ll post up pictures!

Its a tiny ex-council studio flat, with a 60a isolator, load isn’t an issue for what’s currently in there.

Good choice,& yes a rewire would be better,& a recommendation to the client.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Unless the board change was part of a full rewire I personally would not entertain it.
i have come across them where the electrician butcher / mount a new plastic board over the top and try to extend the old wires using crimps and connector block etc but look dog rough With loads of mastic and no nails holding them on.

 

[Dave OCD]

You could make a decent job of this by fitting a timber frame around the old Wylex enclosure, extend circuits properly and carefully as required in the empty enclosure then mount the new CU on a nice piece of ply fixed to the new timber frame.

 

[telectrix]

replace the 3036's with plug-in 60898's, paint it black, run away.

 

[richy3333]

Cheers guys, I had already opted for option 2 if I get it, I just always wonder what other people would do in these situations.
It’s not ideal, but the only way round it really without a rewire.

If I end up doing it I’ll post up pictures!

Its a tiny ex-council studio flat, with a 60a isolator, load isn’t an issue for what’s currently in there.

You cannot grind a CU down as you suggest. You are now the designer if anything should happen.

I'd price to do the job properly or not at all. Either way its not the usual (for here) £200 CU swap.

 

[UNG]

I think a Wylex skeleton CU would be an option to fit into the existing enclosure, if it would fit it would be the neatest outcome IMO

,& yes a rewire would be better,& a recommendation to the client.

Why would it be necessary to rewire? if the installation test out ok there is no point

 

[Deleted account]

I think a Wylex skeleton CU would be an option to fit into the existing enclosure, if it would fit it would be the neatest outcome IMO

Great idea if it fit. If it doesn’t what then?

Is it permissible to use different components from different manufacturers to build a board?


im surprised there isn’t something out there ready designed for this issue as it is not uncommon.

Don’t like doing Frankenstein jobs but in this instance I don’t see how it can be avoided, but in doing so are we breaking our regs.

Personally I would either do a full rewire or walk away. But I would let customer know there could be electricians out there who are willing to do a Frankenstein job.

im not criticising either option, just giving my take.

 

[7029 dave]

Doing a full rewire through all singles in existing conduit will make no difference to the situation, unless you ditch that and chase t&e in everywhere.

 

[stevethesparks]

Unless I could visit site and take some measurements and evaluate it properly, I wouldn't entertain pricing for it.

 

[pc1966]

You cannot grind a CU down as you suggest. You are now the designer if anything should happen.

I don't think they are suggesting grinding down the replacement CU, I think it is to level the old metal to the wall and then mount a new external one over the top.

In that case the old CU is simple a large box and the only real issue would be safely and professionally extending the cables to reach in to the new CU. For most of the cables probably MF boxes would do if the fit in the remains of that old CU behind.

Not so sure about the pyro, but I would be inclined to use bare crimps and glue lines heat-shrink to extend the pyro's tails. At 60A and enclosed as it is you could use 16mm tri-rated for that, assuming proper crimps and ferrules to match.

But I might have missed something blindingly obvious here.