H

highspark

What's the score on no earth on metallic wall lights? Rewire I'm doing, customer doesn't want them taken out because recently been plastered. Looked at cables and they are 2 core flex - no earth. Is there anyway I can make the wires class 2? Ie enclose wires someway? Only small space though. Not much to play with
 
plastic fittings, rewire circuit, or disconnect.
 
Simlec - enclose wires in something so that it doesn't touch caseing is what I've meant here. I've gave them the options of different fittings ie plastic etc or the rewiring. Just thought there may be some sort of small choc box to achieve this
 
Simlec has someone upset you tonight because you seem to be asking irrelevant things. I'm rewiring a house. Maybe not wall lights. End of chat with you!
 
so even if you could "make the cables double insulated", what about the internal wiring of the fitting? i had a brand new fitting, bought by the customer, that had a dead short L-E inside the fitting. if there had not been a cpc connected to the fitting metal casing, thus blowint the fuse, that metal would have been live, waiting for somebody to get hold of it.
 
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so even if you could "make the cables double insulated", what about the internal wiring of the fitting? i had a brand new fitting, bought by the customer, that had a dead short L-E inside the fitting. if there had not been a cpc connected to the fitting metal casing, thus blowint the fuse, that metal would have been live, waiting for somebody to get hold of it.

Good shout it can't be achieved. Rewired or change fittings. Thanks lads
 
Here's an idea which could be completely shot down so feel free guys I have a tin hat on.
Would it be acceptable to drill into the metal casing of the light fitting, tap it out and put crimp lugs on the CPCs in the cables feeding it. An IR test from the metal case back to the CU could confirm continuity and low resistance.
Or does that make me a cowboy. I must add that it's not something I've ever done or been asked to do.
 
trev, i think the problem is that the wiring to the lights is 2 core. no cpc.
 
join the club, mate. i'm terrible for mis-reading posts, but i have an excuse. it's called ( oh bugger, what's that foreign doctor's mame, i forgot , altitude or altidizzy, something)
 
join the club, mate. i'm terrible for mis-reading posts, but i have an excuse. it's called ( oh bugger, what's that foreign doctor's mame, i forgot , altitude or altidizzy, something)

Yeah me too for sure. could be a post in its own right. i normally get the thread buzz and just end up rattling off. then to realize. doh. !
 
bugger, knew i was missing out on something.
 
oh, and i remembered that doctor it's dr. altzimmer.
 
Here's an idea which could be completely shot down so feel free guys I have a tin hat on.
Would it be acceptable to drill into the metal casing of the light fitting, tap it out and put crimp lugs on the CPCs in the cables feeding it. An IR test from the metal case back to the CU could confirm continuity and low resistance.
Or does that make me a cowboy. I must add that it's not something I've ever done or been asked to do.

Perfectly acceptable to convert a metal class II to a class I - can't see why you would need to though.

Most older 'class I' fittings, pre-70s and some of the more recent imported aluminum electrical fittings, often had/has very poor earth continuity. So they need revamping before installation.

To get back on track - as it were, Lighting circuits without cpcs require class II fittings or circuit rewired with a cpc.

I would also check the switch patresses to make sure they have the plastic screw lugs and not metal ones !
 

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No earth on wall lights
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